16 replies to this topic

[rodandtom]

Hi,

 

I am just about to buy new parts to rebuild our front sub by. I want to put a 1.5 degrees of negative camber on but I want people's opinion as whats best to buy. I am sure read somewhere on this forum that getting the fully adjustable arms are better than the ones fixed at 1.5 degrees. I thought this was because 1.5 fixed assumes that everything is perfect in terms of alignment of subframe, body, and so on. So if you are slightly out you have nowhere to go, whereas with an adjustable arm you can set them up for your car. I cant remember if I read that the fully adjustable arms can catch on other parts - so if you have advice on this too that would be cool.

 

Anyone got any strong opinions?

 

Also - anyone know how to measure the camber properly?

 

Thanks,

 

Rod

 

RodAndTom

Edited by rodandtom, 20 October 2013 - 06:52 PM.

[HarrysMini]

Always use adjustable arms as the fixed ones just add 1.5 deg. negative camber to whatever it is at the moment. Adjustable ones allow you to set it exactly.

[miniman24]

Fully adjustable mate - the Minispares type one piece ones are superb, they dont catch on anything. Get adjustable tie bars while youre at it. The only way to accurately measure camber is with a proper camber gauge, the Dunlop CG 4 gauge is the best for home adjustments :)

[rodandtom]

Cheers guys. Time to get the credit card out then!

[cradley-heathen]

i agree with above comments about the minispares items, and adjustable tierods to go with them, thats the only way to get your cars geometry right.

[rodandtom]

Actually - would you also go for the longer track rod ends as well?

 

Rod

[Carlos W]

Actually - would you also go for the longer track rod ends as well?
 
Rod

Yeah

[carbon]

Agree with previous posts if you are looking for the 'perfect' set-up geometry.

 

However adjustable arms and tie-rods are obvious non-standard parts, you may need to declare this to your insurers if you are running under a standard road car policy.

 

Just a point to consider, others may be able to clarify the insurance situation here.

[rodandtom]

ok thanks

[Deejayry]

Gofor the adjustable version, as others say they allow you to get the wheel alignment spot on. if you aren't too concerned with additional road noise then get the rose jointed ones.

 

beware of minispares longer track rod ends, the rubber boots perish quickly. if i were you i would also order a set of replacement boots as well. 

 

I fitted a brand new set of minispares long track rod ends about 8 months ago, the car was in the workshop at this time and in the process of being built, within a month the boots had completely split on both sides of the car, I spoke to minispares about this and they told me that they have had some issues and sent me two sets of boots, one set in the original rubber and a set made from a different rubber. i fitted the non original ones and so far so good.

[Cooperman]

Mini Spares also offer some offset lower arm bushes which can be used to even up the small differences side to side when using fixed length arms.

That way you can get the camber exactly the same both sides and won't have to notify your insurer of a modification. And you'll save a bit of cash. These arms are often used in historic competition where adjustable arms are not allowed.

[tiger99]

Rose joints are unsuitable for road use, and will have a short life, as well as subjecting the car to excessive stresses. You really need the compliance of rubber bushes, and at the front of the tie rods, one rubber bush behind the mount, and one poly in front, if you want to stiffen things up slightly, as I am sure you do. Two polys is too stiff, and the tie rod or mount will fail eventually due to fatigue.

 

As for the Minispares extended track rod ends, I don't have experience of them. But the usual trick used to be using Triumph Herald/Spitfire track rod ends, easily available from any Triumph supplier, and sometimes slightly cheaper.

 

You really do need the extended TREs as otherwise there will not be sufficient thread engagement, which is very dangerous.

 

Don't go too far with the negative camber, 1.5 degrees is as much as you should ever need, and you will then need some at the back to keep the handling well balanced. I personally prefer a bit less.

 

If insurance is a problem, Cooperman's suggestion is about as far as you can go. I do know that some insurers are very strict about suspension mods, others who know Minis better may be more reasonable. It would help others here if you let us know who your insurers are and what they say about it.

[Deejayry]

Rose joints are fine for road use provided that the optional seals are used and that a decent maintenance schedule is carried out, i have had mine fitted for over 12 years, every 1000 miles or so i pop out the lower arm pins, remove the rose joints and give them a good clean followed by a light coat of quality grease, also make sure to use copper grease on the threads.

 

AFIAK the minispares extended TRE is the same part as the herald / spitfire one.

Edited by Deejayry, 22 October 2013 - 04:32 PM.

[maccers]

I fitted all the above to mine semi-recenly. Mini Spares adjustable camber arms, and their adjustable uprated tie bars. Also added rear KaD neg camber brackets too. Fitted them all, just need to get it all set up correctly now that the new rubber springs have settle into the hi-los and all the other new bits have bedded in. Car feels much sharper already with me fitting and setting to standard ish as much as possible using eye sight, ie no tools.+

[rodandtom]

Mini Spares also offer some offset lower arm bushes which can be used to even up the small differences side to side when using fixed length arms.

That way you can get the camber exactly the same both sides and won't have to notify your insurer of a modification. And you'll save a bit of cash. These arms are often used in historic competition where adjustable arms are not allowed.

Hi Cooperman,

 

Do you mean these

 

http://www.minispare...60.aspx|Back to

 

Thanks,

 

Rod