12 replies to this topic

[CraigieB]

Hello All!

 

I have done some searching and found a comprehensive list of parts needed for a pre-verto conversion.

 

I am buying a 1380 that uses a preverto clutch/inertia starter setup and comes with it all assembled, however my car has always used pre-engaged starter and verto type clutch.

 

Now will I need to buy anything other than a pre-verto slave cylinder (engine comes with the starter), the only reason I am considering using this over the verto turbo setup I have ready to fit is that my friend who I am buying it from beleives it has a lightened flywheel.

 

Thanks for your helps.

 

Craig

[BritishRacingGreen]

You may also need a new slave hose, but the verto one is longer so shouldn't be an issue.

 

You may not have the inner wing mounted solenoid for the inertia starter, if this doesn't come with the engine you'll need it:

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

Plus the wiring to connect it to your existing loom

[CraigieB]

You may also need a new slave hose, but the verto one is longer so shouldn't be an issue.

 

You may not have the inner wing mounted solenoid for the inertia starter, if this doesn't come with the engine you'll need it:

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

Plus the wiring to connect it to your existing loom

 

Thank you for your reply, I forgot to say my car had an inertia starter when I bought it and it was me that converted it to the pre-engaged type. If all I need to do is re-wire in the inertia starter and change the slave cylinder I'll deff try out the pre-verto :)

Thanks

[BritishRacingGreen]

 

You may also need a new slave hose, but the verto one is longer so shouldn't be an issue.

 

You may not have the inner wing mounted solenoid for the inertia starter, if this doesn't come with the engine you'll need it:

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

Plus the wiring to connect it to your existing loom

 

Thank you for your reply, I forgot to say my car had an inertia starter when I bought it and it was me that converted it to the pre-engaged type. If all I need to do is re-wire in the inertia starter and change the slave cylinder I'll deff try out the pre-verto :)

Thanks

 

yep, that's it, no problem!

[stevede]

I changed to pre verto and used the same slave hose (goodridge) with a new slave cylinder. If you don't want to have to swap the starter again, you could always fit a pre engaged ring gear to the existing flywheel.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards

 

Steve

[Deejayry]

The only other thing i can think of that is different is that the pre verto clutch uses the longer clutch arm (approx 10" long) you will also need the return spring, and both of the return spring holders , on the slave end is a tab that fixes around the bleed nipple and on the clutch arm there is a spring holder that fits to the top of the clutch arm on the push rod clevis pin.

 

not sure of the entire verto clutch assy off hand but it has a shorter clutch arm (approx 5" long)

[Guess-Works.com]

Or put your verto clutch onto the new engine...

[CraigieB]

Or put your verto clutch onto the new engine...

will the verto clutch fit straight onto the pre-verto flywheel?

 

Basically I just want to use the lightened flywheel that's all.

[Guess-Works.com]

Yes, there is no difference in the taper on the crank, only realy early 850's had a different taper.

 

Unless there's an ultralight flywheel in there, there's every possibility that you will not notice the difference

[Midas Mk1]

A Verto clutch wont work on a non verto flywheel.

Edited by Midas Mk1, 05 November 2013 - 11:05 AM.

[welshdan]

Dont try to mix and match it wont work. One or the other...

[CraigieB]

so I cant use a verto clutch on a pre verto flywheel?

Errrm, think ill go back to the plan of just using the pre verto slave cylinder

[Deejayry]

so I cant use a verto clutch on a pre verto flywheel?

Errrm, think ill go back to the plan of just using the pre verto slave cylinder

Nope. they are totally different to each other.

 

In my opinion the pre verto clutch is the better type to use as you have the choice of different rated diaphragm's, blue spot is standard, orange spot is a "fast road / rally" plate, grey spot is "competition" type and double grey spot is an even stiffer competition rated clutch spring.

You can also chose from different friction plates, Standard, Bonded and a range of sintered paddle clutch plates. The Double grey diaphragm and sintered plates should only ever be used together.