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Roll Over Jig Help


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#1 PercyTheMini

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 07:13 PM

Hello all, 

 

I am a HNC student studying mechanical engineering. I have to complete a project of which i am going to redesign the roll over jig used for restoring a classic mini. I have a very rough one, basically 2 A frames on wheels and a scaffold pole. We had many problems with it over the restoration and the aim of the project is to prove that i can make something better than what is already avaliable. 

 

I am hopefully going to design something that allows the bonnet to be fitted aswell.

 

Anyone got any suggestions, that HAVENT already been done! 

Also it would be really helpful as evidence for my write up if anyone could specify what problems they found and what they would like to see on one. 

 

Any help would be much appreciated as i'm struggling for a design! 

 

Thanks ! 

 

 

 



#2 adam26y

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 07:25 PM

Perhaps a cradle of sorts that bolts into the subframe holes, then allowing the complete body to be worked on. Obviously you wouldn't be able to fit the subframes But the body would be completely accessible.

by the way I done mechanical Engineering aswell

Edited by adam26y, 20 November 2013 - 07:28 PM.


#3 adam26y

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 07:28 PM

Another quite wacky idea would be suction cup system maybe attaching to the front and rear windscreen or boot lid and front bulkhead?

Edited by adam26y, 20 November 2013 - 07:31 PM.


#4 OJM

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 07:40 PM

IMO you would want something that would ideally thread through the Mini like the scaffold pole, or would bolt on the top / sides of the Mini - this would mean the underside of the car could be completely restored whilst flipped upside down, whereas bolting it to the subframe holes would mean you would still need to weld upside down to restore / fix these areas.



#5 adam26y

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 07:55 PM

Perhaps 2 Lshaped sections, one at each end, this would act as a cradle but allow the weight to be taken, sills (common place needing welding) would be completely open. the L sections could be attached to the subframe Holes. It's still another idea to have down on paper and if you find it unsuitable it'll still give you marks for design and evaluation. One thing I did is doodle a design which I thought would work and then doodle loads of similar designs modifying little bits at a time. 4/5 pieces of papers worth then pick maybe 4 or 5 to take to a further design stage.

Edited by adam26y, 20 November 2013 - 07:56 PM.


#6 Rog46

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 06:39 PM

I've always wondered how out of balance the car is when it's on the jig and how easy it is to rotate the car and hold it there. Some method of moving the car to get a better balance might be good, alternatively a method of adding counter weight(s) would achieve the same result.

Edited by Rog46, 21 November 2013 - 06:40 PM.


#7 skoughi

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 07:06 PM

Have a look on my build thread "my fixerupper", it shows pics on how I cobbled mine together. Its basically the a frames and scaffold pole design but at each end of the main pole I attached back to back scaffold clips so then joining two shorter poles underneath the main pole. These shorter poles then went into the a frames. This effectively lowered the point at which the body rotated around and the result is a nicely balanced mounted body. I can attach the bonnet with this set up, and I used a simple locking pin at the front a frame. Its a bit late in the day for my project although I may still do it to help with final assembly but on the crossmember that bolts to the front bulkhead where the threaded bar that goes through the mounting holes for the subframe bolts, I was thinking to cut off a little of this and replace with some plate that has a hole cut in it that a mounting bolt fits snuggly through. Get this plate lined up with the holes in the sub then put the bolts through the plate and tread into the holes in the sub. When its all tightened up weld the plate onto the jig crossmember. You can now bolt on both subframes while the car is upside down to help with welding repairs thus helping to check everything is square before you weld, and when assembling when its all painted. Hope all that makes sense!

#8 Jordie

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 07:07 PM

my 16v estate build used a home made frame. scaffold pole job. it does take a little lifting but easily one person can turn my estate onto its side. I always did it myself then chocked with a piece of wood, then went to each end to tighten the spit and then removed the wood.



#9 Carlos W

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 08:29 PM

I've always wondered how out of balance the car is when it's on the jig and how easy it is to rotate the car and hold it there. Some method of moving the car to get a better balance might be good, alternatively a method of adding counter weight(s) would achieve the same result.


Pop over to Kent and turn mine over a few times

#10 Tamworthbay

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 08:33 PM

I've always wondered how out of balance the car is when it's on the jig and how easy it is to rotate the car and hold it there. Some method of moving the car to get a better balance might be good, alternatively a method of adding counter weight(s) would achieve the same result.

Pop over to Kent and turn mine over a few times

The one we have at work can be easily turned by one person. If I want it to stay upside down I put four wheels/ tyres in the roof and that does the trick.




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