2 replies to this topic

[Rightho!]

I need to remove the torque converter from my Mini Automatic but even using a BMC MINI Workshop Manual I can't make out the meaning of certain explanations. I know the use of 18G1086 Converter Remover is recomended but is'nt there another way to do it without damage to the unit? Could I make a puller which would provide holes for three bolts to screw into the Converter, meaning after removal of one screw per pair each. If someone has done it I'm sure this last sentence makes sense. If this someone were to be so understanding to post an update he will surely be remembered! Thanks.

[Dan]

  Yes of course any puller that will actually fit the bolt spacing will do.  Providing, as you say, you don't remove all the screws at the same time it won't be damaged.  MRA Minis were making converter pullers but they no longer trade with the public, I don't know if anyone is stocking their stuff at the moment but try Mini Spares.

[Gsysps]

Hi.
I am new to the forum but have been reading lots of posts getting advice for my project mini city rebuild before posting on this topic. I needed to split the block and auto gear box to put new piston rings in. Like everyone else I searched for a torque converter puller with no joy so had one made for me. To make the template I simply partially unscrewed one of each of the 3 pairs of bolts surrounding the main central bolt that goes into the crankshaft. ( as stated elsewhere do not undo all six bolts or even two of a pair). Once the 3 bolts were level with the protruding central nib on the main crankshaft bolt I put a blob of paint on each of the 3 bolts and the central nib. Then I held stiff piece of cardboard flat against the bolts and I had my template with centre points for drilling. The 3 bolts are 5/8 unf. I had my holes drilled to12 mm to give some play. The central bolt was drilled and tapped at 22 mm. My puller was made from 20mm steel and was, I believe made on a fusion bench. £50 (expensive but a good bit of kit).

To use the puller I removed the central bolt from the crankshaft. I fitted 3 washers that were just smaller in diameter than the crankshaft itself. To ensure they didn't move I used double sided tape and stuck them to the crankshaft ensuring the holes lined up. Then back in went the crankshaft bolt. This provides a great load bearing point for the puller central bolt.

The puller is then screwed into the Torque Converter using 3 5/8 unf bolts at least 40mm long. The 22mm central bolt is then tightened onto the bolt in the crankshaft. I found I needed a lot of force. I used a 5foot galvanised pole to extend my breaker bar. I had a helper using a crow bar pushed between the teeth of the flywheel and resting on one of the housing bolts to stop the fly wheel turning. At first it was no joy so with the puller removed I played a blow torch on the metal of the Torque converter close to the shaft but pointed away from the face of the shaft. That did the trick and having refitted the puller and still using the galvanised bar for extra leavrsge, the converter started to move. Obviously I had to remove the puller and the central bolt in the crankshaft to complete the job but by this point I could just rock it off by hand.

Everything I read said these are hard to get off and it certainly took some teeth grinding and head scratching but we got there in the end.