5 replies to this topic

[PlugExploits]

Hi all

 

This is my first post on here as i have always been able to find out what i have needed to know in the past just from this forum.

 

My name is chris and am the proud owner of a 1996 cooper spi for already a year now. It's my first mini and first car I actually care about. After I bought it I joined the mini forum and started reading. The amount of knowledge about my car I have gained purely through this forum is unreal. When I bought my mini last year I got it up on a ramp to see the whole suspension was completely shot. Using this forum for advice I have had the suspension completely replaced with all new bushes and mounts, Gaz dampers, Hi-Los and solid mounts etc etc etc. at the same time I have had all the breaks uprated.

Now this winter is almost apon us I have commenced with the second phase of my mini project, the engine and gearbox. Because this is the first car I have ever cared about my knowledge of engines was non existent until about 6 months ago, then I started researching making my engine better so I am still very much a novice. I have read sprockets posts about building a 100hp a-series and taken into account that I am restricted by my ecu, so with that in mind I have chosen not to over bore my engine unless needed to 1293 and just make everything I have the best it can be. This is where I seek your advise just to put my mind at ease that I'm not about to modify my engine and blow it up. My mini already has an LCB and RC40 with a cone K&N. Through extensive research I have just ordered everything (for now) I think I need from mini spares and was hoping you could cast your eye over to see if there was anything I have missed or overlooked. I'm worried I have spent a lot of money to blow up my pride and joy!


GLP138 OIL PUMP 1275 A PLUS SLOT DRIVE

C-AEG580 CAM FOLLOWER ISKY TYPE HI-GRADE TAPPET SET OF 8

C-AHT54 OIL PIPE HITECH CENTRAL PICKUP GEARBOX

C-AEA526 VALVE SPRINGS RISING RATE UP TO 515 THOU LIFT FITS ALL

GRB239 VERTO CLUTCH RELEASE THRUST

MSSK050 GEARBOX ROD CHANGE ANTI OIL LEAK SEAL KIT

C-AJJ3385 MINISPARES MOLYBDENUM CROSS PIN DIFF

C-AJJ3324 DUPLEX CHAIN AND GEAR SET LIGHTENED AE CAST

MDM274SP CAMSHAFT SCATTER PATTERN MD274

MSG22 GEARBOX 4 SYNC A PLUS REBUILD KIT LESS DIFF 18MM MAINSHAFT

C-AHT446A ROLLER TIP ROCKER ASSEMBLY 1.5 RATIO

GUG701187HS HEAD GASKET SET GENUINE( SPI )

VP91306-00 BIG ENDS 1275 EXCEPT S - STD

VP91886-00 1300 MAINS A PLUS STD

C-AEG425 FLYWHEEL STEEL SPI ONLY

C-AEG582 PUSH ROD 1275cc PERFORMANCE

C-GRH005 SILICONE HOSE KIT SPI IN BLUE

C-AEG485 CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE VERTO PERFORMANCE INCREASE

C-AHT594 CLUTCH PLATE VERTO PERFORMANCE PLATE 190MM WIDE

 

CMS13 - CENTRE MAIN STRAP

 

C-STR289 - CON ROD BOLT SET 1275cc ARP

 

C-AHT280 - COMPETITION HEAD STUD AND NUT KIT

 

GWP134 -  WATER PUMP LARGE CAST IMPELLOR WITH BYPASS

 

new piston rings if chambers are ok, overbore to 1293 with MED Omega 1293 pistons if not

 

I am having a good engineer do the work on my head with big valves, lighten and balance the internals, new cam bearings and making sure compression ratio is correct. 2 mechanic friends doing the strip and build

I have already had an oil pressure and temp gauge fitted to keep my eye on things.

will the ecu and injector cope? is there anything i have overlooked or missed off or somthing else to improve it more (buget is already pushed) what would be the best compression ratio?

Any ideas and advice would be greatly appriciated.

 

Thanks...

[philip663]

MSSK050 GEARBOX ROD CHANGE ANTI OIL LEAK SEAL KIT

 

C-AJJ3385 MINISPARES MOLYBDENUM CROSS PIN DIFF

 

MSG22 GEARBOX 4 SYNC A PLUS REBUILD KIT LESS DIFF 18MM MAINSHAFT

 

to be honest in my opinion i would just send the gearbox to guessworks, Its complex and the rebuild kits are really expensive and you probably wont need half the parts. Guessowrks will use whats good and chuck out whats bad and hell do you a good deal on the diff.

 

 

GUG701187HS HEAD GASKET SET GENUINE( SPI )

 

I bought one of these from minispares and to be honest it was one of the worst pieces of kit i bought when doing my engine! Head and block skimmed and torques correctly, when i started pouring coolant in it started pissing out the front between the head and block, not a little bit, a lot! enough to create  pools of water. upon taking the head off oil was all over the back of the engine/block. it was absolute crap. I bought a payen head gasket the next day and fitted it the same way and its been fine ever since. 

 

VP91306-00 BIG ENDS 1275 EXCEPT S - STD

 

VP91886-00 1300 MAINS A PLUS STD

 

What i did is send the block to an engineering place and got them to check it and find out what the best course of action was. I also got them to get the bearings/pistons so i knew they would be right

 

 

C-AEG425 FLYWHEEL STEEL SPI ONLY

C-AEG485 CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE VERTO PERFORMANCE INCREASE

C-AHT594 CLUTCH PLATE VERTO PERFORMANCE PLATE 190MM WIDE

 

I just changed my friction plate when i did mine, i didnt see any gain in changing it, your choice though  

 

 

 

C-AEG582 PUSH ROD 1275cc PERFORMANCE

 

A push rods a push rod aint it? id just use your standard ones

 

 

 

C-STR289 - CON ROD BOLT SET 1275cc ARP

 

Nothing really wrong with using the ones in your engine now

 

 

C-AHT280 - COMPETITION HEAD STUD AND NUT KIT

 

As above, nothing wrong in using the ones you have already. 

 

 

GWP134 -  WATER PUMP LARGE CAST IMPELLOR WITH BYPASS

 

Double check but i doubt you have a bypass hose fitted on your car now? 

 

 

will the ecu and injector cope? 

 

Mines bored to 1310 with no problems but i cant see any arising if you stepped up a few more sizes. 

[PlugExploits]

I thought the engineer would have parts he would want to use and I'm happy to let him choose them. I had already ordered my parts so I'm going to send back what he thinks I don't need.

I thought the new flywheel was lightened and balanced so would be an improvement and the pressure plate and clutch was because my clutch is well past the end of its life, I limped the mini to my mates garage yesterday. I actually ended up buying the ap racing road/rally plate 180mm in the end, they didn't have the 190mm in stock.

I was thinking about boring to 1330 if I could get away with it as it doesn't cost anymore than 1293. I don't want to change the ecu and injection yet. I want the special components kit eventually but that's a little way down the road.

I read a lot that the conrod and head studs should be changed on a rebuild, especially the conrod ones for apr ones

I'll be getting one of those head gaskets then, can't be bothered with messing about for sake of a gasket!!

Edited by PlugExploits, 28 November 2013 - 12:20 AM.

[philip663]

I was told even if I bored it out to 1380 the ecu would be alright with it. But if your going to that effort you nigh as well consider a megasquirt kit?

[PlugExploits]

Yeah I came across the megasquirt kit yesterday. I'm still getting my head round what it actually does. I've just got my head round how the engine works, megasquirt is probably another few weeks worth of reading for me!!! I enjoy it though.

[PlugExploits]

What about my valve springs with my cam? I have been reading recently there are specific springs related to a cam

Right, been reading some more and the favoured spring on here it seems is the kent VS2 double spring. Kent cams specify VS49 single spring for the 274SP. Which would be better with the 1.5 rolling rockers?

Spoke to kent cams. They said both springs can be used for MD274SP cam but advised VS2's with the high lift rockers.

Edited by PlugExploits, 28 November 2013 - 05:14 PM.