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Cut Out While Driving, Now Won't Start.


Best Answer olly811 , 11 December 2013 - 06:58 PM

Got it started today.

 

Left the old points in and rebuilt the carb with new gaskets and a hs4 waxstat jet conversion kit (I'm told these are more reliable).

 

Not sure if it was the general carb clean or the jet that was the issue.

 

Will go for a test run at the weekend and hopefully wont need too much tweaking. At least I now have lots of spares!

 

Thanks all.

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#1 olly811

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 07:23 PM

Evening all,

 

1971 998cc Mini Saloon, standard setup but with an early 80s A+ engine.

 

So I was driving back from work and she cut out several times. Luckily I wasn't far from home and just got back as she cut out on the drive. Would not start again.

 

Have been tinkering for the last few days, here's what I have tried.

 

Spark looked weak to me;

 

-New coil.

-New condenser.

-New plugs.

-New battery.

-New cable from - coil terminal to the dizzi.

-New HT leads.

-New earth strap from battery.

-Cleaned engine to chasis earth strap.

-11.6v (within 1v of the battery) showing on + side of coil.

 
Dizzi and rotor look in good condition. Points are also clean and in good condition.
 
So now I'm starting to think a fuelling issue. Plugs are wet when I pull them, so fuel is getting through.
 
It literally is not even catching when it turns over (I don't have an imobiliser). If it was a carb/fuel issue would it not just run semi rough rather than nothing at all?
 
Any pointers very welcome here, as you can see I have tried all sorts.
 
Olly.

Edited by olly811, 07 December 2013 - 07:24 PM.


#2 Ethel

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 08:44 PM

Are all the new bits post breakdown? Go methodically through the the ignition:

Connect a plug directly to the coil and make it spark by momentarily earthing the -ve with a bit of wire scratched on the engine.
Do the same, but by cranking the engine with the dizzy connected & the plugs out.
And again with plugs out but hooked up properly to the HT. Leads.

If all the sparks are comparable look at the static timing, if not you should have a better idea of where to look.
Test 1 bad - coil or wiring to it.
Test 2 bad - points, condenser, dwell, dizzy earth lead.
Test 3 bad - dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs & leads.

Fuel can usually be worked round with a splash of fuel into the carb throat.

#3 minimadles

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 09:09 PM

Like Ethel says go through ignition side remember you only need a spark at the plug some air/fuel mixture in the cylinder a bit of compression and you should at least have some coughing and spluttering just work through each system thoroughly and you will find the fault

#4 olly811

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 10:15 PM

All new parts are post breakdown. Compression is an even 150psi on all cylinders.

Edited by olly811, 07 December 2013 - 10:16 PM.


#5 olly811

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 03:12 PM

Totally baffled by this.

Have tried your suggestions and am getting a spark but I'm sure it looks too weak.

I havnt checked timing but the car was running perfectly up until it cut out.

Anything other suggestions guys?

#6 CityEPete

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 03:26 PM

Hi im new to the forum but 11.6v sounds a bit low to me?

#7 CityEPete

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 03:30 PM

Hi im new to the forum but 11.6v is too low surely?
http://m.wikihow.com...k-a-Car-Battery
Have you tried it off jump leads? I have had a car where the knackered battery actual causes the cutout, jumps off another car then cuts out when you put the faulty battery in the circuit for example.

#8 olly811

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 03:31 PM

Yeah, I thought so also but Haynes says as long as it's whithin 1v of the battery voltage then it's all good.

#9 olly811

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 03:33 PM

That's the reading at the coil by the way. And its a brand new battery.

#10 CityEPete

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 03:44 PM

Hhmm new battery doesnt mean much but I see your point, id certainly try disconnecting the battery and connecting to another battery via good jump leads just to see, does it turn over nicely?

#11 CityEPete

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 03:48 PM

Plug leads all in the right order, we've all done it! (Cant have been the initial fault I know).

#12 olly811

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 04:58 PM

Turns over great. Have tried with old battery, new battery and jump leads.

 

My next stop is dizzi and rotor, but they look in such good condition. I will be very surprised if its that.



#13 CityEPete

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 05:04 PM

Its going to be something daft, you just know it!

#14 Ethel

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 05:23 PM

Static voltages don't mean much, it's what you have when it's cranking that effects starting. It's not ballasted ignition is it? I'd assumed not by the age of the car. My inkling is the dizzy baseplate earth

 

p45f.jpg or

 

or a short on or before the points.



#15 olly811

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 07:58 PM

I have tested the resistance of the baseplate earth cable from 'screw to screw terminal', it seems fine. No not ballasted.

 

I will post up some pics of the dizzy cap and arm tomorrow and see what the general consensus is.

 

In the mean time if anybody has any other suggestions for things I have over looked i will try them out and post back.

 

Thanks for the help so far, I will get there in the end!


Edited by olly811, 08 December 2013 - 07:59 PM.





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