26 replies to this topic

[jaydee]

 

Just to be clear, you should never put 20w50 (nor 15w40) in this type of engine.

But that's what the manual says 15w40.

 

 

 

NEVER EVER trust the owners handbook, it just tells you what at the time were the conventions between rover and oil suppliers.

 

It says 15w40 because at the time austin rover had agreement with the oil suppliers to stock and advertise 15w40.

Same happened in the late 90ies when they reccomended 10w30 oil, now try to put that in your mini and say goodbye to the 'box!

 

 

You want to use something different than 10w40 in your automatic mini, then do it, but be prepared for a gearbox re-build.

[Poppet2]

Just to be clear, you should never put 20w50 (nor 15w40) in this type of engine.

But that's what the manual says 15w40.

 

NEVER EVER trust the owners handbook, it just tells you what at the time were the conventions between rover and oil suppliers.

 
It says 15w40 because at the time austin rover had agreement with the oil suppliers to stock and advertise 15w40.
Same happened in the late 90ies when they reccomended 10w30 oil, now try to put that in your mini and say goodbye to the 'box!
 
 
You want to use something different than 10w40 in your automatic mini, then do it, but be prepared for a gearbox re-build.

[Poppet2]

Thanks.
I thought it was because being an auto, 15w40 is used due to an auto engine running off oil pressure.

[Poppet2]

As above don't trust the manual. You need good 10w40 in an auto or you risk expensive damage!

Could people please respond to the following link re. Oil for an automatic engine. This person used 10w40 and had problems.
http://autominiregis...box-fault-drive

[jaydee]

Honestly it sounds like he had a blown transmission then tries blaming on the oil.

[Spider]

Here

 

[Ethel]

You can read up on SAE oil grades online. The number before the W relates to the cold viscosity lower numbers are thinner. There's more to it than that though, modern oils can have additives that aren't helpful. The demands of motorbikes (clutch & gears in sump) are closer, but you're generally better off with mineral oil over synthetics. Auto's aren't driven by oil pressure per se - they do use it to operate the clutches and brake bands that select the gears.
 
Do the gear changes happen at the expected speeds? See if selecting Neutral improves the idle.

[jime17]

As said, sounds like the problems were there before the oil change.

They also used semi synthetic which isn't recommended.

[Spider]

You definately need to put some good 10w40 oil in an 84 auto due to the torque converter.

 

Quality Oil?

 

[jaydee]

LOL is that real?

[Spider]

LOL is that real?

 

Yes, it is!

 

I've not used it, but I am told it's an OK Oil.

Edited by Moke Spider, 25 March 2015 - 09:40 AM.

[Poppet2]

You can read up on SAE oil grades online. The number before the W relates to the cold viscosity lower numbers are thinner. There's more to it than that though, modern oils can have additives that aren't helpful. The demands of motorbikes (clutch & gears in sump) are closer, but you're generally better off with mineral oil over synthetics. Auto's aren't driven by oil pressure per se - they do use it to operate the clutches and brake bands that select the gears.
 
Do the gear changes happen at the expected speeds? See if selecting Neutral improves the idle.

So are you saying synthetic oil should never be used, only mineral 10w40 oil for my automatic?