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1293 Engine Build

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#1 Lsurt95

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 09:15 PM

hi

 

After Christmas i am planning on building a fast road 1293 engine and was wondering if you could recommend any changes to the current engine plan...The car will be used for daily driving so it needs to be reliable but have some get up 'n' go. 

I already have bought a 1293 GT engine and close ratio gear box with a 3.44fd which has never been assembled.

 

ENGINE
adjustable duplex timing gears
centre main strap
HIF 44 carburettor 

 

CYLINDER HEAD
big valve head
ported and polished head
high compression  around 10.0
roller tip rockers  (1.3 or 1.5)
 
CAMSHAFTS
Kent 266 or 276 cam 

 

GEARBOX

minispares xpin diff  
centre oil pickup   
oil windage tray  
 
Basically what sort of power could i expect with this engine professionally set up on a RR and how drivable would it be with every day use?
 
Thanks
 
Liam

Edited by Lsurt95, 15 December 2013 - 09:18 PM.


#2 Pigeonto

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 09:59 PM

Really, that's a 1275 MG Metro engine with a slightly bigger cam and 18cc more, so a touch over 80 hp probably and about the same lb/ft torque. Depends who's RR you go to of course as far as the ultimate figures go.



#3 bugs42

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:28 PM

If you paint it red you will get 10000000000000000bhp at the wheels no question, which is perfect for a daily driver.



#4 Cooperman

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:59 PM

Sounds like a good spec for a road engine and with a 276 cam and 3.44:1 FDR it will drive very well.

 

You can save money buy just buying standard duplex chain drive sprockets and timing in the cam with offset woodruff keys. After all, you will only be setting it once, and once set it'll stay correct.

 

You will find 1.3:1 rockers will be fine.

 

You probably don't need the centre main strap as you won't be revving to much over 6000 rpm - just balance the rotating components and spend any spare cash on a lighter flywheel, ideally a pre-Verto one.



#5 Lsurt95

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 05:47 PM

forgot to add that from what i know the crank has been balanced but cant guarantee this so i will get this checked. 

 

also would it be worth getting an orange clutch diaphragm?

 

as for a rolling road session can anyone recommend on in the north east region?

 

thanks



#6 carbon

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 06:35 PM

Would suggest sticking with the blue clutch diaphragm spring and standard clutch plate for this spec unless you're planning on doing lots of full-bore standing starts...

 

The orange plate has its place with higher torque output engines, but puts a lot more strain on the crank thrust washers, and if these go it gets very messy.







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