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Horrible Crunching Noise - Steering Rack?


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#1 hgarton

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 06:19 PM

So, after finally being in a position to fit my new dashboard (which looks lovely thanks to all for your advice ages ago on how to get it done) I thought I'd take the "young" man out for a drive last weekend...(yes my mini is a boy, thank the previous owner putting an 82mm exhaust outlet on a 998!)

 

Anway, reversed out of the garage and as I swung round to avoid my other car I heard a horrible crunch/crack noise which I thought was a bit like when you snap a think bit of plastic. At this point I was able to get full right lock but couldn't go left, with a bit of effort (and more crack/crunching) it's gone back and I've got full lock on both sides again.

 

I freaked, popped him back in the garage (with a little more crack/crunching) and took the other car to town, now I seek your advice!

 

Any ideas on how I can fault diagnose this? I fear it may be a steering rack issue which is likely well beyond my current skills.

 

Thanks in advance,

Hazelle



#2 grumpy dad

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 06:43 PM

Hi 

do you get the crunch/crack noise with out the car moving 

just when you turn the steering wheel 

my guess is that you wont

 

if you only get the  crunch/crack noise 

when moving and it gets worse as you turn the steering wheel

it will probley be the CV joints 



#3 greenwheels

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 07:06 PM

Sounds like CV joint(s) - I recently went to change a CV joint boot and found the ball cage was broken!!

Is it noissey both ways



#4 cal844

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 07:59 PM

CV joint, could be inner or outer



#5 hgarton

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 08:22 PM

Going right wasn't too bad. Left was the main issue but if it is CVs I'll probably go for changing both together. Hopefully I'll get chance to get it up at the weekend.

My Haynes manual is at home so can't tell what I'm looking for, if anyone's get phots they could post I'd appreciate it.

#6 grumpy dad

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 08:25 PM

just change the left hand outer



#7 hgarton

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 08:55 PM

Ok so not a change in pairs situation then? Any idea on a mini spares part number anyone? I'm not totally sure what I'm looking for without my manual in front of me

#8 grumpy dad

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 10:31 PM

can you give us a year please

and i will try to give you a link



#9 Rog46

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 02:58 PM

Profile for hgarton says it is a standard '77 mini 1000 (998cc)

Edited by Rog46, 18 December 2013 - 02:58 PM.


#10 ibrooks

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 11:03 AM

The noise..... Was it happening whilst the car was moving backwards or forwards or was it happening whilst the wheel was being turned?

 

CV's won't make a noise unless the car is moving (the driveshaft is turning).

 

You've changed or fitted a dash..... Did you have the column unbolted from the bottom dash rail?

 

Before you leap in changing things we need a much better description of what's happening and what you are doing and experiencing when it happens.

 

You say at one point that it was difficult to get it to go left - how do you mean? was the wheel difficult to turn? was the wheel turning but it wasn't steering left?

 

Was it driving (did you drive it) OK before you changed the dash? If so then the very first place to look is the areas you have made changes or disturbed things - it's not unknown but it's very uncommon for things that haven't been messed with to suddenly start playing up.

 

What description you've given makes me think it's far more likely an issue with the rack/column than a CV joint. If you had the column unbolted and it was swinging on the rack it might be a problem with the pinch bolt or column/rack alignment. It you've been moving things around behind the wheel it might be as simple as something fouling on part of the column/wheel.

 

Can you tell where the noise is coming from?

 

Can you feel it through the wheel?

 

Iain



#11 hgarton

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 12:54 PM

Iain,

It was when moving (slowly) and has previously been absolutely fine. I've not touched the column at all during the dash fit so can't work out how it's happened. I did wonder as it's been sat in the garage for about 10weeks if it's just seized and the crunch was it releasing again?

I couldn't turn the wheel without forcing it through what felt like a mechanical stoppage, I decided not to drive it before seeing your views as I live on a very windy single track road so locked steering at any stage would have ended badly for all concerned. Couldn't really tell where the stoppage was whether it was column or further down towards the rack but it did seem to be that general vicinity.

#12 ibrooks

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 10:44 AM

OK - I'd suggest the next step is some checks with the front wheels raised off the floor (just enough so that they will spin).

 

Assuming they are pretty much straight ahead at the moment... Spin the wheels one at a time (can help to have a glamorous assistant to hold the other one still). Any nasty noises or do they feel rough? is so are they better if they are both free to spin or when one is held still? This last would imply that the diff is doing something it shouldn't.

 

If that's OK next spin the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times - feel OK? Make any noises?

 

Whilst the wheel is turned all the way in one direction go back and spin the wheels - any different? Now turn the steering wheel the other way and repeat at the wheels (shouldn't make a difference but......).

 

If you do get any nasty noises or feelings try to identify where they are coming from. You can generally discriminate the rough area a noise is coming from if there aren't any other distracting noises like the engine. Look and try smaller movements. Purely as an example if you kneel next to the car with the door open you can usually see the pinch bolt at the bottom of the steering column keep watching it whilst reaching up and rocking the wheel back and forth. With a small movement you should see it move but the rack isn't actually moving because even on a brand new rack there is always some play. If you get the noise then it's the column but if the noise doesn't start until the movement is greater and the rack starts to move then it's the rack. This sort of thing can help to narrow down where the problem is.

 

Iain



#13 Joe555

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 11:27 AM

Is it possible that it was just the wheel jammed on the wheel arch?



#14 hgarton

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 05:16 PM

Iain thanks that sounds like a good start, I'll report back tomorrow with my findings.

Joe I don't think so, clearance has never been an issue before but I'll give it a look in the morning when it's light outside.

Thanks for all your help guys




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