16 replies to this topic

[dgear1984]

1967 MK1

1275 COOPER S THIN FLANGE BLOCK WITH STANDARD CAPS

521 COOPER S RODS

480 COOPER S CRANK

STANDARD MAIN STUDS

ARP MAIN NUTS

PIPER 270 CAM

MINI SPARES EVO FOLLOWERS

 

Hi,

 

Got my block and parts back from machining and have spent today cleaning ready for assembly tomorrow got a couple of questions....

 

*  I have standard original S main studs. What should I torque these to and should I use a loctite?

 

*  I have some Minispares ARP main nuts. Now what should I torque these to with them going on standard studs rather than ARP ones. Manual says standard 57lbft, ARP site assuming you have ARP studs and lube says 80lbft. The ARP site also mentions using washers. I assume I do not need washers? I have ARP lube I can use from my rod bolts.

 

*  The oil gallery from the centre main to the centre cam bearing is blocked off at the main with a brass bush, is this correct?

 

*  I have some threaded oil gallery bungs. Should I use some loctite 577 when putting them in?

 

*  I have got some graphogen for the build. Can I use this on the cam lobes and followers or am I best getting some cam lube?

 

Thanks Dave

 

[Cooperman]

Torque the stud nuts on mains to 57 lb.ft. but don't use Loctite or lubricant ( I always use 60 lb.ft. and it seems fine).

Torque the big-end nuts to the figure in the manual if using standard studs/nuts or to ARP setting if using ARP stuff (which is top quality).

Good idea to use Loctite to secure the oil gallery plugs.

Graphogen will be fine for lubricating the cam lobes. It is just to prevent scuffing at initial start-up. Once the oil has really got round the cam lubrication is not a problem.

Don't neglect to do a 'trial build' before final assembly in order to check the engine goes together properly and to check all the dimensions, for example that the pistons come right to the tops of the bores and that the ring gaps are between 0.008" and 0.015" for all rings.

 

It sounds like a great specification so good luck with the build. 

[mk1leg]

sounds like a real peach of a build.......nice.......

[dgear1984]

Torque the stud nuts on mains to 57 lb.ft. but don't use Loctite or lubricant ( I always use 60 lb.ft. and it seems fine).

Torque the big-end nuts to the figure in the manual if using standard studs/nuts or to ARP setting if using ARP stuff (which is top quality).

Good idea to use Loctite to secure the oil gallery plugs.

Graphogen will be fine for lubricating the cam lobes. It is just to prevent scuffing at initial start-up. Once the oil has really got round the cam lubrication is not a problem.

Don't neglect to do a 'trial build' before final assembly in order to check the engine goes together properly and to check all the dimensions, for example that the pistons come right to the tops of the bores and that the ring gaps are between 0.008" and 0.015" for all rings.

 

It sounds like a great specification so good luck with the build. 

Thank you cooperman. All the rings where between 14 and 16 thou. Piston height is good. 

 

Been busy today.

 

 

 

 

 

Need to check with the engine builder who put the pistons on the rods but 3 of the pistons have the writing towards the engine number side of the block and one the opposite way round, other than that I think it went fairly smoothly.

 

I have noticed the cam gear seems to rub on the triangular plate. Is this a common fault. Do i need to just surface grind down the plate a little to allow a clearance. With the gear nut tight the cam was slightly harder to turn but it was still possible. I have added some badly drawn red arrows on the photos.

 

Thanks Dave

 

[GraemeC]

The plate does have some bearing material on it, however when the nut is torqued up there should be some end float on the cam.

[Cooperman]

Yes, you do need a minimum of around 0.002" cam end float when it's all bolted up. The cam retaining plate will have some rotational marks, but should not be scored. Lightly linish the plate on the inside face, i.e. the one against the block, if necessary to achieve this float.

[dgear1984]

I skimmed down the plate in the end. Problem solved

Thanks Dave

[GraemeC]

Did you skim it off the back face and not the bearing face?

[dgear1984]

Did you skim it off the back face and not the bearing face?

 

The cam gear side

[dklawson]

I don't remember which side... but one side of that plate has bearing material on it as GraemeC Mentioned.  

 

The plate is going to get wear marks on it.  Too late now... but I would not touch it unless the endfloat clearance is too small/tight when the plate is bolted to the engine block.

[dgear1984]

Got these for my S block, think they are the right ones for the age and spec...... but

 

 

do I need to use cork or rubber seals with these? Im not sure of the exact date of these ones.

 

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

http://www.minispare...39.aspx|Back to

 

 

Thanks Dave

Edited by dgear1984, 12 January 2014 - 07:15 PM.

[Cooperman]

The red rubber seals are best and are what everyone with an 'S' who I know uses.

[dklawson]

+1 on the rubber seals.  

[dgear1984]

Been reading up on running in procedures. What is the reasoning behind running the engine up the first time until the head is warm to touch with no water in it.

 

Must admit, never really done much with engines, normally they have always come from the engine tuners built, dyno'd and ready to go, just fit and crank for oil pressure, brum.......

[dklawson]

I have only heard the recommendation for the dry start when using a black Payen gasket.  I was told that it helps the sealant on the Payen gasket soften and stick to the block and head.  I have not heard of anyone doing the dry start with other head gaskets.