Mini Mad
Posted 18 December 2013 - 10:51 PM
I'm in the process of a rebuild on my Mini and I'd like to fit a alloy guard (or composite). My exhaust system is a centre exit Maniflow so if I can fit guard either side it will prevent a build up of crud in the rear valance, protect the battery box and also reduce drag!
I think the 1996 Monte Mini's had these fitted but I'm looking for some photos or info.
Cheers
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 18 December 2013 - 11:04 PM
One Carb Or Two?
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 19 December 2013 - 07:09 PM
I'm in the process of a rebuild on my Mini and I'd like to fit a alloy guard (or composite). My exhaust system is a centre exit Maniflow so if I can fit guard either side it will prevent a build up of crud in the rear valance, protect the battery box and also reduce drag!
I think the 1996 Monte Mini's had these fitted but I'm looking for some photos or info.
Cheers
i was tfihinking about doing something like this but never got round to it. template some ideas out of old cardboard, im sure you can find some around and about then when youv got something you like ask, fabricators for quotes on a metal one or you could look into fibre glass or carbon ones to save weight. i think a metal one would loose aero savings because of the weight but would fight against salty roads and other crud etc
Thats a stunning mini, love it!!!
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 19 December 2013 - 08:20 PM
The RH one is a battery box guard. I made one from 4 mm thick aluminium alloy.
I also have a slightly different LH one which shields the twin Facit fuel pumps, fuel filters and pipework.
Mini Mad
Posted 24 December 2013 - 05:56 PM
Thanks for the feedback, do you have any photos? My friend makes composite panels including under floor Kevlar guards so I was thinking of making the initial guard in metal and then using this as a former for the lightweight composite.
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 24 December 2013 - 07:28 PM
You will be best using 4 mm aluminium sheet for these. The weight saving of the composite panels will not be sufficiently lower to justify the high cost of Kevlar. Remember Kevlar must be encased in Carbon or GRP as it absorbs water.
In fact the sub-frames are not particularly vulnerable, it's the battery box and fuel pumps/pipes which need shielding.
Incidentally, the rally cars of the '60's had reinforcing steel sheet welded to the underside of the sub-frame side members. I think it was 16 swg, 1.5 mm, and it was only fitted to cars doing really rough events like the RAC, Scottish, Acropolis, etc. For all-tarmac events the cars were lightened as much as possible, although it is possible that cars with reinforced sub-frames did do tarmac events like the Circuit of Ireland, Tulip, Alpine, Monte, etc.
Super Mini Mad
Posted 28 December 2013 - 12:18 AM
The late Monte rally cars used fuel cells in the boot floor which was flat across and then had two sections that hung down either side of the exhaust. Meant that a larger fuel capacity could be carried, whilst keeping the centre of gravity low and also leaving more usable space in the boot for spares. Also made changing rear shock absorbers much quicker. Tanks were around 45L in capacity and made by ATL if im remembering this correctly. This is what the shields are for in the photo a few posts above.
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 28 December 2013 - 11:19 AM
The Minis on the Monte in 1964, '65, '67 & '68 ran to FIA Group 2 regulations, which meant that they were only allowed Group 2 homologated modifications. So standard single or twin 5.5 gallon tanks were allowed. In 1966 when they ran to Group 1 only one 5.5 gallon tank was allowed, so support vehicles were sent out to re-fuel them as a Cooper 'S' won't go very far flat out on 5.5 gallons.
Mini Mad
Posted 10 January 2014 - 10:21 PM
From the excellent 'Last Works Minis' book the photos show the fuel pumps mounted underside of the boot floor, hence the guards but there is only a side view with the wheel removed so it's kind of hard to see the exact detail. I agree that 4mm al alloy is probably the best material to use. Once I have the subframe off and I've taken the battery box and exhaust into account I can make up some templates.
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 11 January 2014 - 12:05 AM
Don't aim to copy the 'works' cars as current fire regulations may not allow things 'as they were'. For a time the works cars had the double-header Jaguar petrol pump mounted inside the car under the rear seat. That was later deemed dangerous.
Unless doing rough forest events a battery box guard is not vital. I have seen cars with the battery box about 1.5" shallower which raises the battery inside the boot and the top of the battery is protected by an insulated cover to prevent it from shorting out on the RH fuel tank. That works fine for the vast majority of events, even quite rough ones.
Make sure the petrol, brake and battery lines are run inside the car and are properly secured and protected.
Mini Mad
Posted 11 January 2014 - 11:03 PM
Cooperman, no probs I already have a Facet pump mounted inside the boot and the fuel, brake lines and battery cable are run internally. My car isn't used in the woods.
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 12 January 2014 - 09:07 PM
It is wise to fit a pair of Facit pumps in case of failure of one of them, which is not unknown even if it is rare. I have 2 Facits wired, switched and fused separately to provide fail-safe operation. They are under the rear seat bottom panel inside the rear sub-frame profile as I feel that is safer than having the pumps share a boot with a big battery and up to 11 gallons of petrol. I have a battery box cover made from aluminium and lined with rubber which clamps to the boot floor.
You are wise to keep out of the forests! Best to raise the ride height slightly, even for tarmac as the dampers can then be set not quite so hard which helps keep the tyres in contact with the road. Low and with too stiff damping is not good for performance on rallies.
I hope all this is helping.
Mini Mad
Posted 14 January 2014 - 09:25 AM
Giving me some great ideas for fuel pump placment on my fast road rebuild. Echo the twin switched fuel pumps set up. Have pair on my Mini7 racer. Facets tend to just stop, with very little indication that they are beginning to falter!
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 14 January 2014 - 04:34 PM
I did a historic rally in Wales a few years ago and another competitor came and asked me if I had a spare fuel pump. He had a single Lucas pump on his MGB-GT and it was only working 'sometimes'. I said I was surprised that he didn't have twin pumps because I've always fitted twin pumps on every rally car I've owned. I didn't have a spare and he retired, despite the fact that he was doing well. So he retired from a rally which had probably cost him around £300 to enter and get halfway round, all because he didn't have a 'fail-safe' fuel delivery system. With the FACIT pumps I always run with both switched on during tests, but go back to one on road sections.
With rally cars you need as much 'system redundancy' as possible. For example, don't wire the map light for the navigator onto the same fuse as the interior sockets or plotting light. Have separate fuses for all 3, or all 4 if you have twin sockets. Have the spot/driving lights come from different fuses and relays and have separate relays and fuses for each headlight.
Always carry 2 spare wheels, use Rain-ex on the windscreen in case of total wiper failure and carry spare coil, fuses, fan belt, points, plugs, condenser.
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