20 replies to this topic

[MiniMan96]

Hello everyone, I am new to minis and I am currently resoring a Mini Rio wich i bought for £400 as a first car and i have a beam axle and coilovers to fit to it. I got the coilovers with the car so the cheaper option was to do the conversion as i only had to buy the beam axle its self. But i have read that you have to turret or strengthen the inner wheelarch to do so. does anyone have any pictures of this done so i can get a rough idea of what to do, also wondering if you can buy replacement panels which already have this done that meat stantards to save time.

 

But my my other question is.  since i am getting rid of all the heavy steel and standard susspension and fitting the light beam axle does it really reqire strengthening?     I udurstand that all the weight becomes focusd on the shock mounts after the coversion.

 

My only problem is that i don't have a garage so this is a driveway restoration so tools are my only restriction

 

If it helps the Beam axle i have is the the Huddersfield spares one and i have GAZ coilovers.

 

If anyone can help i would be very greatfull

i will upload photos of the project very soon.

Edited by MiniMan96, 19 December 2013 - 12:05 AM.

[mab01uk]

Welcome to TMF and good luck with your conversion.

Don't really understand why people go to the trouble of carrying out this conversion on a road going Mini, especially when even with a strong rear subframe minor rear end shunts can cause quite major damage. What do you hope to achieve from the conversion?

Edited by mab01uk, 18 December 2013 - 11:48 PM.

[MiniMan96]

The main reason for me doing the conversion is that the coilovers came with the car and they are brand new in the box so they werent going to waste as the subframe was rotten and needing replaced.The beam axke being cheaper than a new subframe and all the other components.

But its when you look underneeth it looks alot cleaner, sporty, and is adjustable not to mension alot lighter.   My dad also has a mini and is a panel beater by trade and it was mainly him who convinced me to do it.

 

I have 2 minis one im going all original and the rio im doing a racing theme.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Edited by MiniMan96, 18 December 2013 - 11:56 PM.

[mab01uk]

Sounds an interesting project and as you already have the parts and a rusted out subframe it makes sense to use them.......post up some pics when completed. I am sure others who have done the conversion on here will be along and able to offer you useful advice.

In the racing Mini world we used to brace and strengthen the rear arches/shock turrets with the roll cage rear struts but beware on a road car as a roll cage can be an insurance problem for some younger drivers.

Edited by mab01uk, 19 December 2013 - 12:07 AM.

[MiniMan96]

Sounds an interesting project and as you already have the parts and a rusted out subframe it makes sense to use them.......post up some pics when completed. I am sure others who have done the conversion on here will be along and able to offer you useful advice.

thanks for you feedback and i will post some pics up very soon.

[brum,brum,mike]

http://www.theminifo...ar-turret-kits/

[Ethel]

I've never quite got the rear shunt theory, the subframe being more solid means it can transmit more impact force further forwards, which would happen anyway once the rear end stove in reached the wheels. It's also not hard to imagine a situation where the front of the offending vehicle rides over the subframe pinning the Mini to the road. The Metro was designed with some thought of crash resistance, and has a frame closer to a beam. I'm sure there are scenarios where either setup would perform better than the other.

 

The vertical part of the wheel arch is one of the thicker parts of the shell; it's ideally situated to spread and transmit the upwards push of a coilover. My experience is that failures occur right at the shocker mount and are usually related to rust. I'd concentrate any reinforcement there, as well as ensure there's adequate clearance for the springs.

 

Coilovers come into their own on lightened cars, the argument against them on a road car is it won't perform as well as rubber cones with as wide a range weight in the back.

 

The Hudds Mini beam doesn't have the best reputation, there were several topics.

[joyce1bro]

Im converting to Protech Coilovers and am most likely going to retain the rear subframe maybe lighten it. I am getting the rear turrets done and also looking at the fron mounts. Turrets, roll cage, fuel cell, inner wings and a few other things are getting done now. cant wait for the results

[M J W J]

I've never quite got the rear shunt theory, the subframe being more solid means it can transmit more impact force further forwards, which would happen anyway once the rear end stove in reached the wheels. It's also not hard to imagine a situation where the front of the offending vehicle rides over the subframe pinning the Mini to the road. The Metro was designed with some thought of crash resistance, and has a frame closer to a beam. I'm sure there are scenarios where either setup would perform better than the other.

 

The vertical part of the wheel arch is one of the thicker parts of the shell; it's ideally situated to spread and transmit the upwards push of a coilover. My experience is that failures occur right at the shocker mount and are usually related to rust. I'd concentrate any reinforcement there, as well as ensure there's adequate clearance for the springs.

 

Coilovers come into their own on lightened cars, the argument against them on a road car is it won't perform as well as rubber cones with as wide a range weight in the back.

 

The Hudds Mini beam doesn't have the best reputation, there were several topics.

 

The stiffer the structure the more force can be applied to it before it will plastically deform. In theory (dangerous word) you could apply more force to a standard subframe and it will spring back into shape so in a low speed shunt it should perform better.

 

The weak point will be the heal board. With an original sub frame, in a hard enough shunt the heal board will bend. Without the rear subframe the boot floor will bend first.

 

I kept mine to keep the car more balanced. Nothing worse than a really nose heavy car. They can become twitchy under hard braking as nothing is holding the rear end down to the road. They are also a bit more prone to lift off over steer.

 

In answer to the OP's question. You can use offset coil overs but it is best to add reinforcement to the rear arches. This is what I have done with mine. You can also run coil overs with an original subframe, you just remove the cones and trumpets. This is also what I have done.

 

Turrets are usually needed when you don't use off-set coil overs. Without them there isn't enough clearance between them and the inner arch to fit. Also with coil overs watch your spacing between them and the rear of your wheels. I found there wasn't enough between mine and a standard set of 12" steel wheels. Luckily my alloys have about 1" more offset so clear them.

[1984mini25]

and am most likely going to retain the rear subframe maybe lighten it...

 

Or chop the front section from a new/ good used rear subframe, bit of seam welding, drilling for an extra pair of mounts/tubes and bolt on using the original healboard mounts.

[joyce1bro]

I don't really want to chop it up I mainly want to keep it so the car is balanced and not nose heavy. Most likely just put some holes in some places.

[MiniMan96]

Hello everyone, Thank you for all of your brilliant feedback.

 

I have decided to make my own turrets as i have the materials already and they arnt very comlicated so it shouldnt take much time.

 

Thank you brum,brum,mike for your link to the other thread as this was very helpfull. http://www.theminifo...ar-turret-kits/

I have decided to use a similar design to these but home made to keep the costs low.

 

And mab01uk i will upload the pics to my profile for you all to look at.

 

 

I will keep also you all posted on the project.

[MiniMan96]

Someone please tell me how to upload pictures

[alex-95]

Someone please tell me how to upload pictures

You can either create a photobucket account, upload your pics and copy the IMG code into you post or click more reply options and click on the attach files

[sledgehammer]

The reason I would worry about no subframe on a road going car - is rear end collision

 

the fuel tank would compress / split easier without the subframe providing horizontal bracing

 

but I love the simplicity of a beam as the loads are less