15 replies to this topic

[amr27]

I am having some trouble with the wiring on my mini. I have no spark but I'm almost sure it's down to wiring as I have got the wires going to the starter and the alternator sorted but I'm left with a ball of wires to go to the coil and dizzy (with electronic ignition) but have no clue which wires are supposed to go where.
The wiring is quite a mess down to the previous owner being very careless I think making it more difficult to work out where each wire should go.
Can anyone tell me what wires should be going to or coming from the coil and dizzy?
It's a 1992 mini city.

[cal844]

it should be either white and white with black trace on the coil, does the dizzy have a black module with 2 wires coming from it?

 

IF NOT THE ABOVE

 

white with black trace (possibly 2 of these)

white with yellow trace (from starter motor solenoid)

pink and white trace (Ballast esistor from ignition switch)

Edited by cal844, 31 December 2013 - 01:43 PM.

[Ethel]

If it has factory fitted electronic ignition there'll be no ballast wiring - pink/white yellow/white.

 

Didn't the City become 1275cc's in '92?

[cal844]

thanks Ethel, i wasnt sure hence listing the earlier version, according to google the city is a 998

[amr27]

I have a black wire and a red wire coming out of my dizzy, where should them 2 wires lead to from there?
Mines has a 1275 engine but came standard as 998

[dklawson]

I have a black wire and a red wire coming out of my dizzy, where should them 2 wires lead to from there?
Mines has a 1275 engine but came standard as 998

 

That does not sound like factory wiring but is the common color code for aftermarket electronic ignitions.  

Look carefully at the wires connected to the coil and the markings on the coil.

You should have a white wire connected to coil (+).  also connect the red wire from the distributor to that terminal.

If you have a tachometer there will be a sense wire for it connected to coil (-).  Also connect the black wire from the dizzy to that terminal.

 

Again, look carefully at the wire going to coil (+).  If it is pink instead of white there are some changes to what I have stated above.  Let us know the wire colors you have on the coil.

[amr27]

I have white wire that has 12v and white black and another white wire comeing out of lume near dizzy. Do I need to connect any of them to coil? I have red connect to + on coil and black wire connect to - on coil from dizzy.

[CityEPete]

Looking at the wiring diagram you should have
White with a yellow stripe - coil positive
White with a black stripe - coil negative

Possible pink with white - coil positive (ballast wire you might not have)
White on its own isnt shown but as others have said might be the tacho wire? If so thats coil negative.

Your electronic ignition module is as you say red coil +, black coil -

[CityEPete]

Id wire it up with the 12v to coil positive, and the white black stripe to negative and see whats what, if it all works with no rev counter put that spare white to coil negative.

Edited by Ethel, 01 January 2014 - 08:53 PM.
don't put a white on the -ve side of the coil, it'll melt!

[Ethel]

White is the colour code for unfused ignition dependent +ve, what you need for the +ve side of the coil (unless it is ballasted). White/black is for the -ve side, including the 2nd wire to a rev counter if fitted. It sounds like you have an aftermarket electronic dizzy conversion, odds on the red is the +ve, and can be joined to white at the coil's +ve terminal. Black can go on the -ve side in place of a black/white. Just confirm the coil matches the dizzy's requirements.

[dklawson]

I have white wire that has 12v and white black and another white wire comeing out of lume near dizzy. Do I need to connect any of them to coil? I have red connect to + on coil and black wire connect to - on coil from dizzy.

 

As Ethel said, white wires are un-fused and switched on/off by the ignition switch.  

Does your white wire with 12V on it always have 12V present... or only when the key is in the ignition key is in the run position?

 

Regardless of your answer to my question above, only connect the white/black wire to coil (-) IF you have a tachometer fitted.  If you do not have a tach, do not connect the white/black wire as you do not know where the other end of that wire is and it must not be touching earth if connected to the coil.

 

Finally, to the remaining white wire.  Check it with your volt meter both with the ignition key in the run position and with the key in the off position.  Does the final white were EVER have 12V on it?  

[amr27]

White wire has 12v only when ignition key at run.

[dklawson]

White wire has 12v only when ignition key at run.

 

Connect that switched white wire to coil (+).  For now, individually tape off the other two wires so they cannot touch earth.

 

Since you have a multimeter, disconnect all the wires from the coil (marking them first if necessary so you know where to put them back) and set your meter to measure resistance.  Measure the resistance between coil (+) and coil (-).  Let us know if you measure something between 1 Ohm and 2 Ohms, or something close to 3 Ohms.

[amr27]

White wire has 12v only when ignition key at run.

 
Connect that switched white wire to coil (+).  For now, individually tape off the other two wires so they cannot touch earth.
 
Since you have a multimeter, disconnect all the wires from the coil (marking them first if necessary so you know where to put them back) and set your meter to measure resistance.  Measure the resistance between coil (+) and coil (-).  Let us know if you measure something between 1 Ohm and 2 Ohms, or something close to 3 Ohms.

Measuring the resistance I got 2 readings, one was 3 Ohms and the other was 3.6 ohms

[dklawson]

How did you get two different values?   Regardless, your measurements suggest that this is a standard coil.  Therefore, connect the white wire with the switched 12V on it to coil (+).  Also put the red wire from the distributor on coil (+).  Put the black wire from the distributor on coil (-).  Individually tape off those other wires you mentioned coming out of the loom.

 

Test your ignition system.  Remove the high tension coil wire from the center of the distributor cap.  Leave the other end of the wire in the coil.  Using a dry rag or insulated pliers, hold the the disconnected high-tension wire such that the terminal on its end is  about 1/8" from the engine block and have a friend turn the engine over on the starter motor.  You should see a spark jump from the wire to the engine block.  (It is easier on your starter and battery if you remove the spark plugs during this test so no compression is developed).