13 replies to this topic

[AlexMozza]

I'm not sure if I'm asking in the right place. Basically I own a Mini as well as a Mk2 MGA 1600, the oil pressure gauge was damage a while back, leaving me with no water temp. My question is that as fae as I know, these combined guages come as either one of two standard length capillaries, 6ft and 12ft. My question is would the mini combined gauge fit in a MGA. Im pretty sure the beezle is the same size, just unsure of the length of the water temp capillary.
The standard MG one is about £180 compared to £70-£100 for the Mini one.

Thanks!

[pdaykin]

The mini didn't have a combined gauge. Only the oil pressure gauge on a mini was of the capillary type.

[AlexMozza]

I know, b t I've seen Tue combo gauages that you can buy for the mini.
Alex

[Dan]

  It's just an aftermarket 52mm gauge, you can fit it to anything.  I don't think it'll be a very good visual match to the MGA one though.

[grumpy dad]

is the question 

will the temp gauge fit in the head ?

the answer to that is yes its the same thread 

on all A and B series engines 

[AlexMozza]

Yeah. Thanks :)

[dklawson]

There were several questions asked above.  I will try and address them all but in random order.

 

As stated, the Mini did not come with the dual gauge.  However, many people fit them to the Mini and other cars.  Physically they will fit.  However, some British engines/heads have issues with the length of the expansion bulb used for the capillary tube for the temperature.  See Mini Spares part "TE5".  That is an adapter that is used on various installations where the temperature expansion bulb would  otherwise "bottom out" in the mounting hole before it can be tightened properly in place.

 

Different cars used different versions of the dual gauge.  Some were calibrated in degrees F, some in degrees C, still others without a temperature scale but in the later C-N-H form.  Buy what matches your car's other gauges.  The bezels and glass can be removed and swapped between all the 52mm gauges so you can keep the shiny bits from your car.

 

Of more significance with regard to your MGA are brand name and gauge lighting.  Early gauges like your MGA has are likely labeled "British Jaeger" while the current products (and those produced after the mid-1960s) will be Smiths.  If originality is important to you, have your Jaeger gauge rebuilt.  

 

The other issue is lighting.  The early dual gauges and many other 52mm gauges of the period used an external light on the gauge mounting bracket to externally light the instrument.  The gauge case has a series of slots just behind the bezel and the light shines through those slots to light the face.  On later gauges the rear of the gauge case has a 1/2" diameter sleeve.  A lamp assembly is pushed into that sleeve to light the gauge from the rear.  The two types of lamps holders are totally different.  If you install a later gauge on your MGA, you will want to get a later type lamp holder and splice it into your dash wiring.  The early gauges used a blue plastic filter ring to color the light, while the later gauges have nothing like this.  So even once you adapt the later gauge and bulb holder to your MGA, at night the color of the replacement gauge is unlikely to appear correct.   Again, this is a question of how original you want the car to be, not a question of functionality.

[AlexMozza]

Spot On there!
Originality is Pref, but a gauge is not the end of the world. The car was restored in the 90's. The Rev and Speedo are the only correct dials, the rest are smiths :)
I take it the front bezel size is the same for all of the gauges, at 52mm? 
So in theory, there is no reason I could not buy a mini gauge, at half the price Moss want for a MGA one, an it should fit?

[grumpy dad]

So in theory, there is no reason I could not buy a mini gauge, at half the price Moss want for a MGA one, an it should fit?

 

yes you are right

[AlexMozza]

Okies Thanks!

[dklawson]

To remove the old bezel from the old gage, spray the back side with penetrating oil or WD-40.  You will see some small little finger/tangs bent over on the back side of the chrome bezel.  Use a tiny screwdriver to just barely lift them a bit.  Pry them up just a little.  Then grab the chrome bezel with a rubber pad like you might use to open a stubborn glass jar.  Use another such pad to hold the gauge case.  Twist back and forth.  Eventually the bezel will move.  Once it starts moving, look at the back side and you will see notches on the gauge case.  Line those chrome finger/tangs of the bezel up with the notches on the case.  When they are in alignment you will be able to pull the bezel off.

 

Soak the bezel and glass in penetrating oil as there is likely to be hardened rubber goo sticking it all together.  Remove all that goo and polish the chrome and glass separately.  Find a foam cord (about 4mm in diameter) or proper sealing rubbers to go between the bezel and glass and fit them to your new gauge.  

 

Alternatively, check out eBay.co.uk.  U.K. seller "autoelectricalspares" has both the sealing rubbers, bezels, and glass for the 52mm gauges.  I have bought a few things off them over the years.

 

Finally... DO NOT throw out the old Jaeger dual gauge.  Simply do not throw it out.  They can be repaired.  You can even repair that capillary tube yourself if you want.  I have repaired at least 6 such gauges myself.  For information on the procedure, see the link below.  (Repair is easily possible if the gauge needles are resting on the zero/stop pins on the left of the gauge).

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

I do one thing differently than is discussed in the link.  I do not use the water/salt bath to chill the bulb (not anymore).  I use dry-ice as it is colder and cleaner.  If you have a few basic skills and tools you can do this repair yourself.  Rather than hash it out in this thread you can PM me for additional details if interested.

[AlexMozza]

Thanks! I have now picked up a Smiths version. However when funds slow I will get The original one rebuilt!

[dklawson]

Don't hesitate to try rebuilding it yourself if the temperature needle is pointing solidly to the left (see footnote below), if you can make the splice sleeve, and can do a bit of soldering. It is very satisfying to restore these things.  

 

Professional rebuilding will probably run about 90 GBP or so.  The DIY method will cost about 1/4 of that depending on how much your donor gauge costs.  Most people reserve professional rebuilds for things like the TR2/3 temperature gauges and the MG T-series gauges where modern replacements don't look right.  Regardless, your broken gauge is still worth money so don't dispose of it.  The Jaeger gauges are less common than Smiths so they have value to a person focused on originality.

 

Footnote:  I have found that in general if the temperature gauge needle is NOT pointing towards the stop peg in the cold zone, the bourdon tube inside the gauge has been damaged.  This can happen when an engine severely overheats.  Such gauges require a lot of additional work to calibrate after a new capillary tube and expansion bulb are fitted.  Therefore, if the temperature needle is pointing somewhere other than towards its stop peg... do not throw it out or try to fix it yourself but save that gauge for professional repair.

[AlexMozza]

I was going to get it done through work. I work for a classic Aston martin garage, so should not be to bad! I would have a go with a less important guage!