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Mk1 Brake Bleeding Problem


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#1 snowsports1

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 07:37 PM

Hi I have installed a completely new brake system on my mk1 moke but I can't seem to bleed all the air out of the system. The front brake drums have two cylinders, could there be air not being bleed in one of the cylinders? As they don't both have bleed nipples?

#2 Gr4h4m

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 11:26 PM

I have used a clamp on the shoes with the drum off and an ezibleed to get all the air out before now

#3 snowsports1

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 08:10 PM

Still having problems, now using eezibleed and have put 2 litres through with no air coming out, tried locking brakes off, when I did this I thought it was sorted but once I adjusted the brakes the pedal was spongy again

#4 sonikk4

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 08:22 PM

Have you tried pumping the brakes while using the easibleed?? This has worked for me before to get rid of a stubborn airlock.



#5 snowsports1

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 08:24 PM

Yes tried that! Also tried holding pedal down for 10 secs during ezzbleed

#6 cambiker71

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 08:33 PM

Still having problems, now using eezibleed and have put 2 litres through with no air coming out, tried locking brakes off, when I did this I thought it was sorted but once I adjusted the brakes the pedal was spongy again

They're not adjusted properly then. If you had a hard pedal before readjusting the brakes then they're bled ok.

 

But, bear in mind that new brake shoes will feel slightly spongy with a longer than normal amount of pedal travel until they've been used and "run in"  ;D



#7 snowsports1

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 08:41 PM

To adjust the brakes I locked them off them unlocked them until the started turning, it was only about quarter turn. At the moment the brakes aren't working without pumping the pedal, so it is more than a new pad issue

#8 Gr4h4m

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:09 PM

The adjusters are square so you can only move them as one flat so 90deg

#9 snowsports1

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:25 PM

Yes that's what I did quarter turn is 90 degrees

#10 cambiker71

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:31 PM

What about the front ones? 



#11 cambiker71

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:33 PM

Should be adjusted so that they are just binding, and only just or they'll overheat, do each adjuster at a time on the fronts with them all initially locked up, freeing them off one at a time and checking the pedal each time. 



#12 snowsports1

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:34 PM

I didn't have to move them much to free them up probably less than quarter turn

#13 grumpy dad

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:35 PM

Hi 

its possible that its the master cylinder

try this crimp the 3 flex hoses

G clamp or mole grips

try the brakes if its the master cylinder

you will have the same problem

if that is OK remove the crimps one at a time

try the brake each time

you will find the bad one  



#14 cambiker71

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:41 PM

I didn't have to move them much to free them up probably less than quarter turn

That sounds about right but the front are more difficult as there's two adjusters, take your time and work on each wheel at a time like i wrote before. 

To adjust the rears turn the adjusters in until the brake locks then work the handbrake and it'll free off a bit, do this until they are actually locked and you can't turn the drum any more. Then undo the adjuster one click (1/4 turn) at a time until the brake is free enough to turn with a small amount of resistance (binding slightly)



#15 Stu.

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 11:46 PM

The front shoe adjusters on my 850 roundnose have offset cams which don't need much turning to make a big adjustment. The rears are screw / out worm adjusters which need more turning for the same adjustment I find. Sounds like an adjustment issue rather than air lock to me. Hope you get sorted.






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