Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Rear Cowling Bolts Spinning In The Radiator.


Best Answer MayfairEdition , 16 February 2014 - 02:25 PM

Hi, started my engine up for the first time today, after fitting new water pump and radiator. I did have to buy a 835mm belt to get it set up with the right tension. I tried to give it a little throttle, when the pedal fell to the floor with a crunching sound.

The cable, had frayed and been ruined. I think the throttle mechanism had stuck closed and damaged the cable when I tried to move it.

I have ordered a new 1275 1990 - on cable but not sure best way to go about it, are they just simply. Take the old one out and swap it? And help and tips would be appreciated. Thanks. Go to the full post


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 MayfairEdition

MayfairEdition

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 52 posts
  • Location: Leicestershire

Posted 26 January 2014 - 10:42 PM

Hi!

This problem has probably been answered many of times, but I can't find the answer for me.

I am trying to change the water pump on my mini mayfair with a 1275 A+ engine. All was going well and set out thinking it was going to be fairly straight forward, but when trying to remove the cowling from the radiator, I discovered the rear bolts are just spinning the their thread.

I have undone the bottom long bolt and the top bracket from the rad, all hose are detached and I can't seem to get the rad out with the cowling still attached like some other threads have suggested.

Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated, as I'm no classic mini expert to say the least.

Thanks!

#2 KernowCooper

KernowCooper

    Sparkie

  • Mini Docs
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,847 posts
  • Name: Dave
  • Location: The South West
  • Local Club: Kernow Mini Club

Posted 26 January 2014 - 11:03 PM

Can you not get a thin screw driver behind the bolt head and put some torsional twist on the bolt as you rotate the head ? not the easiest place to get to mind



#3 tiger99

tiger99

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,584 posts
  • Location: Hemel Hempstead

Posted 27 January 2014 - 04:46 PM

On most models the rad can come out just by removing the top bracket and bottom long bolt, but it depends on what kind, if any, of cowling that your car has on the inner wing. It may also depend on which kind of fan you have. In the past, I have been able to remove the fan and pulley to get some more clearance, and to do that you will need a 7/16" A/F spanner to undo the 4 bolts, no room for a socket.

 

It could be that your engine is not sitting in its correct place due to worn mounts, which could mess up the clearance.



#4 MayfairEdition

MayfairEdition

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 52 posts
  • Location: Leicestershire

Posted 27 January 2014 - 10:14 PM

Thanks for the reply's, I've tried pushing to bolts out and upwards whilst trying to undo them, but no joy with that.
I've also undone the fan bolts now, and managed to get my spanner stuck on the ring end in the process lol!

It did give me more room but I could not get the rad out still, I'll give it another go tomorrow in the light. Also I Think you could be right with the engine bay clearance, as others have removed rad with cowling still attached on the 1275 models, from what I've heard.

#5 MayfairEdition

MayfairEdition

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 52 posts
  • Location: Leicestershire

Posted 02 February 2014 - 06:40 PM

Hi, I finally managed to get my fan and cowling out last week. Thanks for your help and tips. Once I retrieved the spanner I trapped, I could remove the fan and pulley like tiger99 suggested and it gave me enough room to get the rad out with the cowling still attached. I've ruined my rad, as I've crushed one part of the fins quite a lot, so ill need a new one.

One last question. The bottom bracket that holds the radiator and cowling, is at an angle, opposite the crank pulley, is this normal ? Thanks.



 



#6 tiger99

tiger99

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,584 posts
  • Location: Hemel Hempstead

Posted 02 February 2014 - 06:51 PM

Post a picture, and someone will be able to give you a definitive answer.



#7 blackbelt1990

blackbelt1990

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,621 posts
  • Location: Halifax
  • Local Club: Minimus Maximus

Posted 02 February 2014 - 08:40 PM

One last question. The bottom bracket that holds the radiator and cowling, is at an angle, opposite the crank pulley, is this normal ? Thanks.


 


That's normal yeah.

#8 MayfairEdition

MayfairEdition

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 52 posts
  • Location: Leicestershire

Posted 02 February 2014 - 10:58 PM

Thanks for reply, here's a picture of what I'm on talking about. Took the bolts out of it, in a Desperate attempt to try and help get the rad out. Only made it worse for my self, as I can't, now get the bolts lined up again.

Attached Files


Edited by MayfairEdition, 02 February 2014 - 10:59 PM.


#9 tiger99

tiger99

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,584 posts
  • Location: Hemel Hempstead

Posted 02 February 2014 - 11:10 PM

The bracket looks ok to me, and the upper part is certainly fitted the right way round, with the captive nut at the back. I see that you have loosened the through bolts which attach the engine mount bracket to the gearbox casing adaptor block.If it is these that will not go in, you need to carefully use a jack under that end of the gearbox, and fiddle about until they line up. It takes patience and perseverance, however it will be easier next time. (Being a Mini, there will be a next time...)

 

The long bolt through the radiator mount itself is equally fiddly, but again it will go.



#10 MayfairEdition

MayfairEdition

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 52 posts
  • Location: Leicestershire

Posted 03 February 2014 - 12:48 AM

THANK YOU! I will use a jack under it tomorrow until I can just about screw them in by hand.

#11 MayfairEdition

MayfairEdition

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 52 posts
  • Location: Leicestershire

Posted 09 February 2014 - 04:53 PM

Finally got new/second hand radiator in and new water pump fitted today, when it started raining, as soon as i wanted to get the alternator and new belt on. Don't know if the belt isn't right, but both new and old are 825mm. The new one doesn't seem to be long enough to get the adjuster arm sitting properly?... Could just be me being an ametaure. I'll have a proper look when it's not raining.

I did realise the adjuster bolt looks a bit of a Bodge, But then again most things, original mini look like a Bodge. Is mine in the picture, the correct adjusting bolt and nuts ? Thanks again.

Attached Files



#12 Gremlin

Gremlin

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,142 posts
  • Location: Mere, Wiltshire

Posted 09 February 2014 - 05:03 PM

Yeah thats normal, I think it was meant that you left that bolt and 1 nut clamping on to the timing plate, then when you were tensioning it, you don't have to hold the bolt

#13 MayfairEdition

MayfairEdition

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 52 posts
  • Location: Leicestershire

Posted 10 February 2014 - 10:24 PM

Ahhh I see the point to it now, cheers. Do you have any thoughts on my fan belt. As when I put the new one on all three pulleys, the alternator is pulled all the way tight, but the adjusting bracket does still not want to sit correctly ? Thanks

#14 Gremlin

Gremlin

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,142 posts
  • Location: Mere, Wiltshire

Posted 10 February 2014 - 11:02 PM

Have you got the right alternator pulley

#15 RedRuby

RedRuby

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,201 posts
  • Location: County Durham
  • Local Club: No

Posted 11 February 2014 - 07:55 PM

I have the same problem with fanbelts, got new one and it was 825, no way would it fit so got a 835 which is still tight to get on have to remove both top alternator bolts to angle the pulley down to slip the belt on. Ideally I think that an 850 would be better if you can get them. The car in terms of alternator, mountings and pulleys is stock so don't know why it is so tight to get on.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users