10 replies to this topic

[Kt1966]

It seems my rear subframe has had it (it's now off the car)
Question is which route to go:

1. Buy a second hand one (and hope its ok)
2. Buy a bare new subframe and add components from current one (might work well)
3. Buy a new pre built one from eg Richmond to bolt straight on (expensive but simpler ?)

I'm not technical so don't know what the best option is here so pointers/advice much appreciated. I guess it's a balance between cost and time on all options.
Thanks

Edited by Kt1966, 28 January 2014 - 11:04 PM.

[Cooperman]

Never fit a previously used rear sub-frame. They almost all have rust in them.

Best option is to buy a new one and re-build your existing parts into it. At that time you can check the radius arm bushes and replace as required together with any brake pipes needed. Then rust-proof it thoroughly.

The choice is then between and original Heritage one or an after-market one. The after-market ones can be OK, but sometimes need an extra bit of welding and they can be a bit inaccurate and suspension needs a bit of setting-up after fitting.

really to own a Classic Mini requires that you are either rich or can do a lot of the work yourself, as with any classic car really.

[Kt1966]

Ah, that rich thing is probably where I fall down... As well as the doing it yourself.. Hmm

A new one looks like its around £180-£200 so assuming components come off ten that could be very attractive. The Richmond one is £595 which, with all new components and being bolt on seems a good decent if expensive option. Assuming they fit ok of course....

[Cooperman]

The one at £595 will probably be a 'pattern' one which can suffer from inaccurate manufacture. I've seen them installed and the car going down the road 'crab-wise' or with rear wheel positive camber and toe-out, which makes the car unstable.

Even the Heritage ones can need final adjustment after fitting by filing the radius arm rod bracket to get it right, then welding a big washer on to hold the settings.

It really is a straightforward job and the biggest problem can be the trapped nuts at the ends of the sills in the heel-board can break which then means cutting a hole in the sill for access to weld new nuts in place, then welding a patch on the sill.

Remember you have to remove your old sub-frame & that's where the nuts can shear off inside the sill ends.

You need to remove the petrol tank for access to the LH side rear bolts and the damper top nut.

 

Whenever I change a sub-frame I usually fit new handbrake cables and  new rear brake pipes as it's easy to do with the frame off the car.

[Mrpeanut]

It's rare that I disagree with cooperman but a good pre loved subby will save you a fortune.

I bought a fully built up genuine subby for £150. It was completely rust free, treated and ready to fit.

Buying the above was a no brainer compared to the cost of a bare pattern subby. Deals like I got are out there.

[tiger99]

One thing to be aware of is that if you have, or intend to fit, Sportspack or similar wheels and arches, you need the strengthened subframe which has extra welds. Rover did that for a very good reason.

 

I would seam weld a standard frame, because it does not take very long to do if you are handy with a MIG. I would then have it galvanised, and with the correct primer and paint process it will last for 50 years or more.

 

If a used frame happens to be in good condition (a few may well be), the acid dip prior to galvanising will get rid of any residual rust.

 

I agree with Cooperman that non-genuine frames have their risks. In most cases the welds have been skimped, and the alignment is suspect. You sometimes get what you pay for, but you never get what you don't pay for, as far as new parts are concerned.

 

I would check, clean, paint, overhaul or renew, as appropriate, everything in sight while it is apart (mounting rubbers, radius arms, hubs, brakes, brake pipes, handbrake cables, dampers, knuckles, cones), because I don't like having to take things apart twice when once would have sufficed, although the preferred way to install the new frame, because of the ease of handling, is to fit it bare, and add the suspension afterwards, which means that if you buy a complete assembly the first thing to do will be to take it apart, not that it takes long to do or is difficult. You will need to have it apart for galvanising or painting anyway.

 

It is a good time to de-rust and protect the otherwise inaccessible parts of the shell.

[Cooperman]

The only reason I never re-fit a used rear sub-frame is because I don't think I've ever seen a decent one. They either seem to be rusting away or have been in a crashed car which makes the geometry somewhat suspect. It is easy to bend the rear brackets or mountings if the car hits a curb and it would be a lot of work to fit an 'unknown' item, only to find it not accurate and have to do the entire job over again.

Maybe it's just me being a bit fussy .

[richmondclassicsnorthwales]

Hi all, Just going through the reviews and just thought I would help clear a few questions up.

The subframes I use are ones that I have used for years and fit great. They do not "crab"either.

Yes they are copies which are of a good weight and not wafer thin like others, this is when you start hitting problems.

They are extremely well painted then anchor waxed in all the cavities. Then completely rebuilt, pins, springs, shoes pistons, you name it.

Will last for many years,

Regards, Neil.        

Richmond classics Car Parts.

[tiger99]

Yes, but do they have the CORRECT number of welds?

[jchomme]

well......do they????

[tiger99]

I take it from the long silence that they do not.....