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Hydrolastic Pipes


Best Answer Vipernoir , 04 February 2014 - 12:25 PM

That's what I used - I think it was 8mm, but chop out the damaged section and take it to the shop to check.

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#1 minitalia1275

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 08:20 AM

I have a 1968 hydrolastic Mini. One of the pipes has a very small hole that leaks fluid. Is there any way of repairing it  by using a compression joint or something similar or will it have to be replaced?

If I decide to replace it, will I have to remove the subframes? I have seen that there are plastic and two piece copper hydrolastic pipes available from Minispares, would using either of these let me avoid removing the subframes?

Thanks

 

Rob


Edited by minitalia1275, 03 February 2014 - 10:00 AM.


#2 carbon

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 07:05 PM

If the pipes are original and starting to leak then my advice would be to replace, had to do this on mine a couple of years back. Chances are if you fix one weak spot then it will go again somewhere else along the pipe in the not too distant future. Been there.

 

Good news is you can get copper pipes from Minispares or Mini Machine - they are not too expensive and a reasonable fit. Bad news is that you need to drop both subframes in order to fit them, so it's a pretty major job. Worth planning all the other jobs which you might also need to depressurise the hydro for, such as knuckle joints front and rear, and the bushes in the rear radius arm.



#3 tiger99

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 07:56 PM

You would be better to use nylon pipes. Cheaper too. Copper is unsuitable as it has very poor fatigue properties, and although the pressure in the hydrolastic system is nowhere near as high as the brake system, the pipe diameter is much larger, so the fluctuating pressure as the car goes over bumps will have a significant fatiguing effect. If you can get Cunifer pipes, well and good, but the suppliers I am aware of are all selling copper.

 

http://www.somerford...page=page&id=53



#4 Vipernoir

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 08:15 AM

Or, as a stop gap you can use ~8mm microbore compression fittings - I repaired my '68 Elf with one back in '84 and it's still there.



#5 minitalia1275

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 11:52 AM

Or, as a stop gap you can use ~8mm microbore compression fittings - I repaired my '68 Elf with one back in '84 and it's still there.

 

Thanks for that.  A 20 year stop gap is pretty good going.  Basically, I just need a plumbers compression joint of 8mm?



#6 Vipernoir

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 12:25 PM   Best Answer

That's what I used - I think it was 8mm, but chop out the damaged section and take it to the shop to check.



#7 minitalia1275

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 12:33 PM

That's what I used - I think it was 8mm, but chop out the damaged section and take it to the shop to check.

 

Excellent! Thanks again



#8 ado15

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 01:08 PM

You would be better to use nylon pipes. Cheaper too. Copper is unsuitable as it has very poor fatigue properties, and although the pressure in the hydrolastic system is nowhere near as high as the brake system, the pipe diameter is much larger, so the fluctuating pressure as the car goes over bumps will have a significant fatiguing effect. If you can get Cunifer pipes, well and good, but the suppliers I am aware of are all selling copper.

 

http://www.somerford...page=page&id=53

 

I feel fairly sure the M-Machine ones are Kunifer.



#9 tiger99

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 05:22 PM

If they are selling Cunifer/Kunifer/Cupro-nickel, they would do themselves a big favour by clearly saying so. Maybe their new web site, over a year late now, will clarify it? They are generally regarded as an honest and trustworthy supplier of good stuff, but their existing catalogue is a pain to use. I dare say they are too busy making body panels that fit properly than to work on the web site.....






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