13 replies to this topic

[Dusky]

Hi again all..

 

Tried starting the mini today; no luck.

Doesn't have any spark whatsoever.

Fitted new points and condensor and gapped them correctly.

Tried putting current directly on the coil but still no spark.

 

Any ideas???

 

Carb classic mini 91' normal ignition.

 

ty in advance, this is driving me crazy..

[dklawson]

Where are you looking for spark and how have you been testing for spark?  

 

The coil will not make a spark until the flow of current through it "stops".  Connecting power directly to coil (+) will not make a spark until the engine is turning over such that the points are opening and closing or the electronic module is switching on and off.

 

As an additional test to what you may have already tried, remove a spark plug and pull the high-tension lead from the center of the distributor cap but leave the plug in the coil.  Connect the high-tension lead directly to the spark plug you removed and rest the plug on the cylinder head.  Crank the engine over on the starter while looking for spark.  If the plug fires, you probably have an issue with the distributor cap or rotor.  If it does not fire, the problem is in the low-tension wiring (points somehow shorted to earth, bad condenser, etc).

[Dusky]

Have indeed tried testing it by holding a connected spark plug to the block.

Did not have any spark that way so its probably the low tension? Could a new condensor be faulty from the start?

 

Also : I have a 1 cable and a 2 cable connection. Wich one should go on the '+' and wich one on the '-' of the coil?

 

grtz

[dklawson]

Have indeed tried testing it by holding a connected spark plug to the block.

Did not have any spark that way so its probably the low tension? Could a new condensor be faulty from the start?

 

Also : I have a 1 cable and a 2 cable connection. Wich one should go on the '+' and wich one on the '-' of the coil?

 

grtz

 

The test I am suggesting is specific.  I am not suggesting pulling a plug and resting it on the block while its cable is connected to the dizzy cap.  I am suggesting connecting the spark plug directly to the coil output to eliminate the cap and rotor as variables.  Have you tried that test?

 

Yes.   A new condenser can be bad out of the box.  It can also be connected "incorrectly" inside the distributor depending on what distributor you have.  Some can accidentally create a short between the points and earth.  Pictures of inside your distributor would help.

 

I don't understand your question about 1 and 2 cables.  Do you mean that you disconnected the coil wiring and now you are trying to figure out which goes where?  If so, please list carefully what the wire colors are and where they are connected now or post a clear picture showing what your coil wiring looks like.

[Dusky]

Have tried that.

Here is a pic : 

 

 

Changed the condensator and now I get a spark between the points when manualy opening them.

Couldn't crank the engine over due to a flat battery though... Will try again in an hour orso..

 

thanks for helping me ! Will post how it worked

[dklawson]

Sorry about the condenser.  There are too many such accounts of new parts being DOA.  However, I am glad you found this so quickly.  Hopefully with a charged battery your engine will start right up.

[Dusky]

It has a spark now (yay )

Now I checked the spark plugs and they are all dry, sprating start pilot makde the mini say 'poof' 3 times...

I have fuel in the fuel float booal... SO just need to enrichen the carb??

 

grtz and really : thanks mate!

[Dusky]

( if a mod sees this : please change to 'no fuel' lol )

[dklawson]

Time to make sure the float valve is opening properly and not stuck.  Also make sure the jet is not plugged or full of fuel gum/varnish.  That is somewhat easy to do with spray carb cleaner and those plastic tubes that attach to the spray can.  Once you know the float valve is OK and that the jet is open, move on to the basic carb settings that are used for an initial start after carb rebuild.  

 

I am not up on later HS or HIF carbs so I cannot advise you there.  Some tech info on carb adjustments is on the Burlen web site.  I would read up on that and read through your service manual for the basic, first-start settings.  Once the engine is running, then you can work on the mixture to get it dialed in just right.

[Dusky]

Time to make sure the float valve is opening properly and not stuck.  Also make sure the jet is not plugged or full of fuel gum/varnish.  That is somewhat easy to do with spray carb cleaner and those plastic tubes that attach to the spray can.  Once you know the float valve is OK and that the jet is open, move on to the basic carb settings that are used for an initial start after carb rebuild.  

 

I am not up on later HS or HIF carbs so I cannot advise you there.  Some tech info on carb adjustments is on the Burlen web site.  I would read up on that and read through your service manual for the basic, first-start settings.  Once the engine is running, then you can work on the mixture to get it dialed in just right.

Cleaned everything now ^^

Could it be that there is a leak between the float chamber and the jet? That tube that connects them looks to be very loose..

Will try to adjust tomorrow

 

grtz

[dklawson]

If there is a leak on the flexible tube you should sort it out before it drips any fuel on the exhaust (once you get the engine running).

 

The tube should not be loose.  It is staked onto the jet and the far end fits into the bottom of the float bowl with a rubber compression fitting.  If the seal/tube is loose it will probably be dripping fuel.  Buy a new square cut rubber seal for the tube.  Do not use an o-ring.  The stack up of parts goes like this:  tube passes through... brass compression nut, flat washer, rubber seal.  The plastic tube is pushed firmly into the bottom of the float bow then the nut/washer/seal are pushed down and tightened while you hold the tube in place.  Tightening the nut causes the flat rubber ring to get pushed out against the hole in the float bowl and pushed in against the tubing making the seal.  

 

Now that the engine has spark, have you checked and set the static timing?  If you are confident that the timing is right, try a thimble of gasoline down the carb throat to see if it will try and run.  Running briefly then stalling would confirm you have a fuel delivery problem.

[Dusky]

Oooh, I forgot to adjust the nut
Will be setting the timing again( after condensor fitting) but the mini fired 2 or 3 times with start pilot ( probably on wrong moment = bad for crank but still..)
Hope to sort it tomorrow after school..

[Dusky]

Wont be a big leak if i have one..fuel sits in the bowl even after 10 minutes :)

[Dusky]

Okay guys, new update!

He runs around 10 seconds now when pushing the car...

https://SSend.it/7lm58x

 

movie from inside the car, anyone has suggestions? ( richer/leaner/...?)