42 replies to this topic

[redboy]

From what I've read that's not much good for the engine.

[Stu.]

I may be a little controversial here - but what’s with the fascination with spraying WD40 on everything? There are two starting threads currently running on here and both have the same suggestion, neither made a difference.

 

I've never tried it and never felt the need to when trying to find a starting problem. If it's not starting there usually something pretty basic wrong and even with a gaping vacuum leak and/or crappy fuel you'll generally get some indication of life if all other elements are equal.

 

I'll put it another way - the lump I have out in garage fired with both the vacuum advance and oil breather line open while being fed rather yellow 2+ year old fuel.

 

And to take it one further - we ran an A-series with no carb, just pouring a trickle of fuel into the manifold from a jam jar!

 

So before farting about with everything else - check it's getting fuel, check its getting a spark and it's happening at the right time and the very basic that the source of power (jump pack/battery/charger) has enough juice to crank with compression (i.e all the spark plugs in) and fire the coil, I've been caught out by that last one more than once!

 

 

edit: Sorry, that's a bit ranty!

Sorry, I'll stop contributing then. Thanks for putting me in my place !

[redboy]

Thanks for everyones input by the way.

Was wondering if its worth buying some redex seems the mini has been standing for 1¹/² years ? Never used it before so does it actually do anything.

[Stu.]

Mine was standing for 8 years. I got the engine running sweet with no need for any addative. It says it keeps the carb free form harmful deposits, I guess carbon, but I'm not sure it makes that much difference. Who knows, I may be wrong but I wouldn't bother it.

[redboy]

Tried it again today and nothing. If i try it with the choke out it never even tries to start. With the choke in it sometimes tries to fire up but it won't.
Tried wd40 on the manifold bit that's done nothing.

At one point the starter stuck and it just went dead, no ignition lights or anything. Gave the starter a good tap and it went back to normal.

Not sure what to do now. The coil looks like the original and I've never changed the rotar arm, is it worth buying new of these?

[minimender]

Tried it again today and nothing. If i try it with the choke out it never even tries to start. With the choke in it sometimes tries to fire up but it won't.
Tried wd40 on the manifold bit that's done nothing.

At one point the starter stuck and it just went dead, no ignition lights or anything. Gave the starter a good tap and it went back to normal.

Not sure what to do now. The coil looks like the original and I've never changed the rotar arm, is it worth buying new of these?

Everything should be in as new condition for best results, Dizzy cap, rotor arm and condenser at least and they are only cheap and should be replaced regularly anyway, set points and then crank while spraying carb cleaner in carb,, should go then :)

[Stu.]

 

Tried it again today and nothing. If i try it with the choke out it never even tries to start. With the choke in it sometimes tries to fire up but it won't.
Tried wd40 on the manifold bit that's done nothing.

At one point the starter stuck and it just went dead, no ignition lights or anything. Gave the starter a good tap and it went back to normal.

Not sure what to do now. The coil looks like the original and I've never changed the rotar arm, is it worth buying new of these?

Everything should be in as new condition for best results, Dizzy cap, rotor arm and condenser at least and they are only cheap and should be replaced regularly anyway, set points and then crank while spraying carb cleaner in carb,, should go then :)

 

So true. I'd spent a few weeks getting my Mini ready for MOT. Went to start her on the morning of the test and would not fire. I cleaned the plugs and tried again. No joy, so in desperation I shot to Halfords for some new plugs. Popped them in and she fired straight away. Been on the same plugs now for 6 months. It definitely can be and usually is something simple. 

 

I also started her last night to go for a spin. She started but ran rough as hell with no power. I cleaned the plugs, put em back in all was well again and ran lovely when I went for a run.

 

These old Minis aren't like modern cars, they do need regular tinkering and tlc every few weeks   

Edited by Stu., 27 February 2014 - 05:15 PM.

[redboy]

Right I'll order the dizzy stuff. Do the coils wear with age or should that be ok?

Still not sure why I get nothing with the choke out.

[redboy]

 

Tried it again today and nothing. If i try it with the choke out it never even tries to start. With the choke in it sometimes tries to fire up but it won't.
Tried wd40 on the manifold bit that's done nothing.

At one point the starter stuck and it just went dead, no ignition lights or anything. Gave the starter a good tap and it went back to normal.

Not sure what to do now. The coil looks like the original and I've never changed the rotar arm, is it worth buying new of these?

Everything should be in as new condition for best results, Dizzy cap, rotor arm and condenser at least and they are only cheap and should be replaced regularly anyway, set points and then crank while spraying carb cleaner in carb,, should go then :)
 

So true. I'd spent a few weeks getting my Mini ready for MOT. Went to start her on the morning of the test and would not fire. I cleaned the plugs and tried again. No joy, so in desperation I shot to Halfords for some new plugs. Popped them in and she fired straight away. Been on the same plugs now for 6 months. It definitely can be and usually is something simple. 
 
I also started her last night to go for a spin. She started but ran rough as hell with no power. I cleaned the plugs, put em back in all was well again and ran lovely when I went for a run.
 
These old Minis aren't like modern cars, they do need regular tinkering and tlc every few weeks   

Bought new plugs & leads last year so they should be ok.

[redboy]

Want to get a colourtune sparkplug but what size do i need 10 or 12mm ?

[Stu.]

14mm

[redboy]

Nice one. Halfords only showed 10 12mm so thought that's all there was. Looked again and found the 14mm. Shame because the 10 12mm are only £10, 14 is £25

[Rog46]

Nice one. Halfords only showed 10 12mm so thought that's all there was. Looked again and found the 14mm. Shame because the 10 12mm are only £10, 14 is £25

But they're worth it !

[dklawson]

I may be a little controversial here - but what’s with the fascination with spraying WD40 on everything? There are two starting threads currently running on here and both have the same suggestion, neither made a difference.  I've never tried it and never felt the need to when trying to find a starting problem. If it's not starting there usually something pretty basic wrong and even with a gaping vacuum leak

 

The reason people suggest spraying WD-40 is not to fix anything but to find vacuum leaks.  I don't know why or when people started saying to use WD-40.  The old school method was to use spray starting fluid (ether).  This can be somewhat dangerous in proximity to hot exhaust but certainly is known to work.  An acquaintance of mine uses an unlit propane torch instead.  Just like with the sprays, passing propane around the intake manifold will cause the engine RPM to change if an intake leak is present.

 

 

 

And to take it one further - we ran an A-series with no carb, just pouring a trickle of fuel into the manifold from a jam jar!

 

 

Though you were doing this to run the engine, this is largely the same test as dumping a thimble of fuel into the carb throat to determine if you have a fuel supply problem.  It definitely works as a screening test.

[dklawson]

From what I've read that's not much good for the engine.

 

I assume you are referring the "quick start" or "cold start" as mentioned previously.  There is nothing with using it as intended.  The problem is that many people recommend spraying a liberal dose of the stuff down the carb throat (directly) while cranking the engine.  This can wash the oil off the top rings of the engine... which is bad.  A short blast into the intake while cranking is all that should be required if the engine is in tune.  I don't use it this way when I find I need it.  I spray the fluid onto the paper air filter element so it is fully vaporized when drawn into the engine.  Regardless, limit your use of spray ether to short blasts and don't spray it continuously down the carb throat while cranking.