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Clutch Lever Arm Removal


Best Answer Cooperman , 24 February 2014 - 03:30 PM

You will want to re-set the clutch overthrow nut when rebuilding the clutch arm mechanism.

The overthrow nut is in the centre of the clutch cover (also known as the 'wok'). Be careful when slackening off the locknut and whatever you do don't rely on the arm to prevent the plunger from turning or you will risk having the ball end on the clutch arm snap off (been there, done that!). Hold the overthrow nut with a spanner whilst slackening off the locknut next to it.

After re-building the arm with new clevis pins and re-setting the clearance to the stop bolt head to 0.015" / 0.020" and making sure that when driven the clutch pedal is in the correct working position, you get someone to push right down on the pedal then lightly screw the overthrow nut until it just touches the casing. release the pedal and turn the nut 1/2 of one flat more, then use the lock-nut to hold this position.

It is a good idea to put both clevis pins in the opposite way around so that you can get easy access to the split pins.

Make sure the pins and bottom of the arm are well lubricated and that the plunger is free to move easily as it can become seized in the clutch cover. Lots of releasing fluid, then a light oil helps there.

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#1 trtj

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 02:59 PM

Hi all

 

I want to service the clevis pins and piston rod both ends of the pre-verto lever arm. Can this be done easily? I cant get to the top split pin so looking at the bottom one which is more accessible but the whole system seems to be under tension...am worried if i pop this bottom clevis pin out something will move. IS it a case of winding in the top stop nut toward the bell housing until everything goes loose and wobbly? 

 

Slave cylinder and return sprint already removed for service

 

Cheers



#2 KernowCooper

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:09 PM

With the spring removed there should be a small gap between the clutch lever and the bolt in the clutch housing, so yes undo the 7/16af lock nut and wind the bolt in and the clutch arm should not be under pressure from the clutch so you can remove the pin.



#3 Cooperman

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:30 PM   Best Answer

You will want to re-set the clutch overthrow nut when rebuilding the clutch arm mechanism.

The overthrow nut is in the centre of the clutch cover (also known as the 'wok'). Be careful when slackening off the locknut and whatever you do don't rely on the arm to prevent the plunger from turning or you will risk having the ball end on the clutch arm snap off (been there, done that!). Hold the overthrow nut with a spanner whilst slackening off the locknut next to it.

After re-building the arm with new clevis pins and re-setting the clearance to the stop bolt head to 0.015" / 0.020" and making sure that when driven the clutch pedal is in the correct working position, you get someone to push right down on the pedal then lightly screw the overthrow nut until it just touches the casing. release the pedal and turn the nut 1/2 of one flat more, then use the lock-nut to hold this position.

It is a good idea to put both clevis pins in the opposite way around so that you can get easy access to the split pins.

Make sure the pins and bottom of the arm are well lubricated and that the plunger is free to move easily as it can become seized in the clutch cover. Lots of releasing fluid, then a light oil helps there.



#4 trtj

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 08:48 AM

Excellent guide, thank you both


Edited by trtj, 25 February 2014 - 08:49 AM.


#5 no66

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Posted 06 May 2021 - 01:40 PM

Dragging up an old thread. 

Cleaning up all this on my 1995 MED engine. There is a bolt and luck nut instead of the big clevis pin and splitpin. 

I suppose this is ok? 



#6 KTS

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Posted 06 May 2021 - 02:04 PM

is it a bolt or a set screw ?

 

i would think a bolt would be ok as long as the shank is in contact with the housing, and not the threaded section



#7 Chris1275gt

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Posted 06 May 2021 - 02:15 PM

As above as long as no thread is touching any part of the wok or arm as it will chew the bearing surfaces as there's quite a bit of pressure on the arm. I personally would put the correct pin in.

#8 no66

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Posted 08 May 2021 - 10:36 AM

Bolt with shank, no threads in critical area.  Cleaned up, but will probaly get the proper pin. 






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