12 replies to this topic

[felixy69]

I have a jap spec 97 spi
I have problems putting it into gears regardless of hot or cold

I sometimes have to rev match it to get it in

And often it grinds it self into gears

What could be wrong and what can be done without changing the gear box to fix the problem ?

Oil i use is 20W50 Castro GTX
Outside temp is around 0 degrees Celsius
I m from vancouver canada

Thanks

[RossKnight]

Check your clutch fluid reservoir to see if there is enough fluid in there. I was running low once, and it would grind in gear and sometimes wouldn't go into first.

[felixy69]

Okay .... I'll check ... but there feels like some pressure still
Omg I m so lost

[tiger99]

First get a ruler, and get someone to press the pedal all the way down, while you measure the movement of the clutch lever at the slave cylinder. Let us know what you find, and whether it remains fully actuated or slowly returns back to normal.

 

If there is a hydraulic problem.like all such problems in any car it will not be fixed just by adding fluid. It will need either the master or slave cylinders, or both, overhauled with new seals, and it is my practice to always do them both, replace the flexible hose too, and fill and bleed with fresh fluid, because it is false economy to do half a job, only for it to need re-doing again soon.

 

There are several other possible causes of a dragging clutch, and the Mini is much the same as any other car in that regard. The first suspect, fairly easy to check, but the most expensive of all to fix, is crankshaft end float, so it is a good idea to get that one out of the way. With the engine not running, use a lever against the bottom radiator bracket (don't know if it is a bit congested in there in your model) to push the crankshaft pulley in towards the engine. Now get your assistant to press the pedal fully, and check that the pulley does not move out very much. 3 or 4 thou is ideal, 10 is marginal, and very much more than that means that a crankshaft regrind and new bearings and thrust washers will be needed immediately. If you are experienced in precision engineering, you may be able to judge the movement by feel, otherwise use a DTI or other available measuring instrument.

 

The other typical cause on a conventional car would be the crankshaft spigot bearing, in which the gearbox input shaft runs. On the Mini it is inside out, with the primary gear running on the crankshaft end, with two very large bushes, of Deva, a sintered bronze material. These can become damaged and partially siezed, which is not all that common, and means clutch and flywheel out for examination. The crankshaft can often be polished by very fine abrasive paper, and new bushes fitted and reamed, without splitting the engine and gearbox.

 

The other affliction common to almost all cars is contamination of the clutch plate, causing it to stick to the flywheel and/or pressure plate, or sticking on the splines, usually due to dirt and rust, which would need a stripdown of the clutch and flywheel, cleaning and applying some dry graphite lubricant.

 

It could also be that overtravel stop nut has been wrongly adjusted, but if you have not disturbed that (nut and locknut visible on end of clutch casing "wok", in centre), readjustment should not be needed. If it is wrong, the first test will show insufficient travel.

[felixy69]

Sounds like an expensive fixxxxxx

[gazza01]

I think the oil is too thick for your box. Does it actually ever get up to the correct working temps. I think it's the 10/40 you may want (check it in the Haynes) and let the car tick over a good while before driving it. See if that helps. Even the 10/40 may take some mileage before its chewed up enough to help with the gear changes at zero degrees. Some gearboxes do crunch until warm and the oil is hot. Probably a silly question, you don't have an oil cooler fitted do you?

[RossKnight]

I think the oil is too thick for your box. Does it actually ever get up to the correct working temps. I think it's the 10/40 you may want (check it in the Haynes) and let the car tick over a good while before driving it. See if that helps. Even the 10/40 may take some mileage before its chewed up enough to help with the gear changes at zero degrees. Some gearboxes do crunch until warm and the oil is hot. Probably a silly question, you don't have an oil cooler fitted do you?

 

20w50 is the recommended oil

[Cooperman]

There are so many things which can cause clutch drag. First of all it is necessary to determine whether the problem lies in the release linkage and it's hydraulic system, of inside the clutch/flywheel/primary gears/crank float.

 

As above, first measure the crankshaft end float. It should be 0.0015" to 0.005". If it is 0.010" it can be brought back to be correct by fitting 0.003" oversize thrust bearings each side of the centre main bearing. More than that and special +0.030" thrust bearings need to be machined to suit after careful measuring to give the correct float. If the crankshaft is damaged it can be re-faced on the thrust faces.

 

Then measure the clutch arm movement at the top of the arm. I can't remember what it should be with a Verto clutch, but someone will know, or can measure a correctly working one. From there check for wear and excessive play in the clutch arm clevis pins and the overthrow stop setting.

[Captain Mainwaring]

I think the oil is too thick for your box. Does it actually ever get up to the correct working temps. I think it's the 10/40 you may want (check it in the Haynes) and let the car tick over a good while before driving it. See if that helps. Even the 10/40 may take some mileage before its chewed up enough to help with the gear changes at zero degrees. Some gearboxes do crunch until warm and the oil is hot. Probably a silly question, you don't have an oil cooler fitted do you?

 

That can actually help you if you think about it......

 

All good advice above, for me the least likely suspect would be end float - the exception to the use to be the Triumph Vitesse which was prone for not wearing it's thrust washers, but dropping them out, which if not addressed would mangle the main bearing caps and crank journals.

 

 

I'd guess clutch hydraulics as the first thing to look at once all of the completely obvious things have been discounted.

[jaydee]

In canadian winter a 20w50 is too thick and will damage your engine.

Use quality 10w40 oil for such a though climate.

[felixy69]

Copied !!

But weird thing is today temp is 7 degrees Celsius
The car shifts alittle better ......

[felixy69]

do u guys think broken top engine stabilizer bushing will effect shifting ?

[gazza01]

If the engine is not stable then it's possible. Check the rubber cotton reels etc on the gearshift housing. If they are worn then instead of it pushing the rod forward it will let the housing move instead. I still say get some thinner oil in there, let it tick over a good while and see if it makes much difference. You said it was better as the temps were up a bit so that is a clue.