Previously known as theboybradley.
Posted 01 March 2014 - 10:35 PM
Another question!
How do you know whether the hub is seated properly on the driveshaft when you put it back on? Been replacing the ball joints and not the wheel bearings, but the bearings seem loose and can move in and out a bit inside the hub, so worried they might not be in the right place when tightened up? Or am I being stupid and they can only go in one place when it's all tight?
I have the special thick washer thingy for using prior to the conical washer by the way.
Crazy About Mini's
Posted 01 March 2014 - 10:55 PM
That is normal. Just follow the tightening procedure, which you know about, and feel the bearings again. They should then be ok.
Previously known as theboybradley.
Posted 01 March 2014 - 10:58 PM
Great, simples 
Thanks
Previously known as theboybradley.
Posted 01 March 2014 - 11:07 PM
FYI when I took the old ball joints off, none of them could I move easily in all directions, they were so tight. I had to really put some effort in to move them. Each had 7/8 shims and the new ones seem to need only 2.
Edited by lewBlew, 01 March 2014 - 11:08 PM.
Crazy About Mini's
Posted 01 March 2014 - 11:24 PM
Well, whoever did the old ones had not the slightest concern for safety, or maybe just no engineering comprehension whatsoever, if they were too tight. That is the second easiest way to kill people in a Mini. (The easiest involves the steering rack and column, and usually improperly fitting a drop bracket. Third involves messing up wheel bearings, usually too tight, by mixing spacers, or using defective parts.) I am sure that you are using proper care and attention, and your car will be safe. It isn't rocket science.
The ball joints may well be machined differently by various manufacturers, and you may have lapped them, so the number of shims required can be very different. Be sure to keep all your old shims, as next time (in a VERY long time, if you have set them up with between "no nip" and 3 thou endfloat, as per the manual, and grease them regularly!), you may need some of them. The ball joints really do last for ages and ages if shimmed up properly, and if they are well made.
Previously known as theboybradley.
Posted 01 March 2014 - 11:33 PM
Well, whoever did the old ones had not the slightest concern for safety, or maybe just no engineering comprehension whatsoever, if they were too tight. That is the second easiest way to kill people in a Mini. (The easiest involves the steering rack and column, and usually improperly fitting a drop bracket. Third involves messing up wheel bearings, usually too tight, by mixing spacers, or using defective parts.) I am sure that you are using proper care and attention, and your car will be safe. It isn't rocket science.
The ball joints may well be machined differently by various manufacturers, and you may have lapped them, so the number of shims required can be very different. Be sure to keep all your old shims, as next time (in a VERY long time, if you have set them up with between "no nip" and 3 thou endfloat, as per the manual, and grease them regularly!), you may need some of them. The ball joints really do last for ages and ages if shimmed up properly, and if they are well made.
Yes it was done in 2012 by an independent garage (NOT a mini specialist in any way shape or form) who charged a lot of money to do it, so when recently I noticed the rubber boots were coming off I decided to do them properly myself.
I am lapping them as we speak (no rest for the wicked). These are Mini Spares ones and they said they do not necessarily require lapping but I want to do it properly, albeit by hand as I do not have a drill.
Re. shimming, is slight resistance ok and a tiny bit of upward/downward play, but if you move the pin upwards it still falls back down. Is that ok? Or should it be tight enough to be moved into a particular position and gravity not able to make it fall down again?
Edited by lewBlew, 01 March 2014 - 11:34 PM.
..is NOT a girl!
Posted 01 March 2014 - 11:46 PM
There's a spring for behind the lower ball seat so that should have some lift & fall. The upper one should not have any play really, but it's hard to judge until it's all assembled on the car. With the wheels of the floor there should be no resistance to steering. Don't go OTT with the lapping, there's surface hardening you don't want to wear away.
Previously known as theboybradley.
Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:00 AM
Ok I've lapped and shimmed, and greased which seems to tighten up the joint at first. The top one I can still move with one finger. The bottom one, with spring now in, I have to grab with a couple of fingers and hold the hub as well so it's quite a bit tighter. Any good? 
P.S. if I connect up the grease gun and grease it until the grease comes out the top, the joints are REALLY tight until I move them, then they loosen up. This ok too? This is first greasing.
Edited by lewBlew, 02 March 2014 - 01:01 AM.
..is NOT a girl!
Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:48 AM
As long as they stay loose. There should be a flat strip on the ball that makes a channel for the grease, turning the joint distributes it. It's a good idea to coat the joint in grease before assembly too.
Previously known as theboybradley.
Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:04 AM
As long as they stay loose. There should be a flat strip on the ball that makes a channel for the grease, turning the joint distributes it. It's a good idea to coat the joint in grease before assembly too.
OK. How loose is loose though? No it's greased, the upper one will drop slowly due to gravity if I move it in a vertical direction. I can do this with my fingers. The lower one needs pushing quite hard, way more than just a finger and I have to hold the hub tightly to stop the whole lot moving. I wonder if it's too tight? It's much like the upper one when the spring is removed.
Previously known as theboybradley.
Posted 02 March 2014 - 03:47 PM
Previously known as theboybradley.
Posted 02 March 2014 - 03:48 PM
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