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Tackling Hidden Rust

rust repair

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#1 Merryck

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 09:25 PM

Hi guys, back for more bodywork help! I've removed the front wings, which went fairly well, but I've uncovered some more rust. I've taken some photos to illustrate the issue.

 

I'm not sure where to go from here.

 

1779813_10152912120360400_1157520377_n.j

 

What panels do I need to get for this? I definitely need help I think, going to have to look around for someone to sort it for me!



#2 72clubman

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 09:30 PM

You're in to the inner wing, A-panel stiffener, the verticle part of the doorstep, the scuttle closing panel, and probably the scuttle while you're at it! It's an intricate part of the car with quite a few panels! Good luck! 

 

Doesn't look far off what I had to deal with! 

 

f60a35f5-bc13-473f-a3fa-42dc37274463_zps

 

DSC_1893_zpse13c8faf.jpg


Edited by 72clubman, 05 March 2014 - 09:38 PM.


#3 Merryck

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 09:40 PM

Would this panel be good?

 

http://minispares.co...|Back to search

 

It looks like it sorts every issue I have here!!



#4 72clubman

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 09:45 PM

It's certainly the cleanest way of doing it. Of course it's no good if you've got nothing to attach it too though,  the panels behind it have likely been damaged by rust too.  It's also incredibly labour intensive to remove the entire inner wing. 

 

 

http://www.bmh-ltd.com/p63v.asp

 

 

You'd probably also need V8 and V9


Edited by 72clubman, 05 March 2014 - 09:48 PM.


#5 Merryck

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 09:55 PM

I've got V8, just got to get the rest then!!

 

I don't have much experience with any of this. Any experience with any of this actually!



#6 72clubman

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 10:06 PM

I was in exactly the same position, this was the first corner I tackled as well on my car. It's a complicated box section, but once you've got your head around it it can be done. If you need any more pointers or pictures I'm happy to help


Edited by 72clubman, 05 March 2014 - 10:06 PM.


#7 Carlos W

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 10:08 PM

Remove the upper shock mount and see if there's a hole there!

I wish I'd gone with full inner wings

#8 Merryck

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 10:46 PM

So I think if I'm going to do this I'm going to do it right. What would be the process of welding in the panel that I've linked to above? The one that pretty much covers most of this area. Would I need to seam weld it, or spot weld it? Also, is there and kind of bracing that I'd need to do when cutting this amount of metal from the corner of the car?



#9 cradley-heathen

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:19 AM

trying to describe what to do here is tricky, but PLEASE dont weld that replacement flitch panel in with a huge overlap.

 

i never overlap panels as it just creates a really tiny gap for moisture to gather and rot the new panels out. the only problem is you need to get the fit really good, and butt welding body panels requires a bit of experience to get right or youll just blow holes in it.

 

offer the repair panel up to the car, mark down the edge with something sharp, then cut about 10mm from it so you only have a 10mm overlap when you put the two panels together. or if your feeling brave and want to butt weld it, cut down the line you have scored and weld them edge to edge.

 

i have seen these welded in with about 5 inches of overlap, and its just horrid. you want either old panel, or new, not one on top of the other.


Edited by cradley-heathen, 06 March 2014 - 12:24 AM.


#10 cradley-heathen

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:23 AM

the other thing is, the repair panel that 72 clubman posted up is probably going to be far wider than you need,

 

remember you dont have to use all of the new panel as it is. clean the entire inner wing/flitch down, if its solid cut the new panel down to just replace what you need.



#11 Alex_B

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:26 AM

If you are butt welding panels, get some flat copper bar and use that behind the join, make sure the panels are separated by the width of the metal you're welding and then go slow in sections and allow to cool to avoid warping the panels. 

The copper bar allows a solid surface behind to help avoid blowing holes and if you do then it allows you to weld to the copper and build up and fill in the hole, yet the weld wont stick to the copper so you can just remove the bar once its welded :) 



#12 cradley-heathen

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:40 AM

i have heard other people do it like that with the copper, i do it freestyle lol!

 

but seriously, i find its all in setting the welder up and getting the length of the pulses right.



#13 sonikk4

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 06:47 AM

Use Frosts Cold Front instead of copper sheet. Reuseable and easy to apply.

#14 Merryck

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 07:11 AM

Ok, we'll overnight I've decided that either I can afford to buy the panel or I can afford to pay someone to do the job, so it looks like it's me doing the job! I've now got a load of old panels that I can practise with, so that will be my aim for the foreseeable future. I'm going to measure up the scuttle panel and it's distances tonight and chop that off to see what other horrors are lurking beneath.

Ironically I only decided to use this shell because it seemed more solid to me! The other one needed a bit of work, including a new roof skin, but nowhere near as much!!

#15 Carlos W

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 07:15 AM

Get that shock mount off and see what's going on behind it!

There's these cool little brackets you can get for leaving a nice gap if you're butt welding but I can't rememember what they're called! I'll take a pic when I'm in the garage





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