13 replies to this topic

[liam1288]

Hi guys a friend pointed out my passenger rear wheel is toed in which would explain why when I corner it feels different to the normal... (Which I noticed yesterday)
I've not had chance to properly look at it yet but I've not had any knocks or anything I know of that would cause it.
What could be the problem? Just to narrow things down? Bent subby, radius arm?
Thanks

[Carlos W]

wear on radius arm bush or rotten subframe

 

You haven't hit a curb or anything have you?

[tiger99]

It is impossible for any of us here to answer your question. You need to jack the car up safely and have a look for things that are bent or broken, and feel for play in the radius arm pivot.

 

However, if this has happened suddenly, without having kerbed the wheel, prime suspect would be something failing due to corrosion or fatigue cracking, so I would strongly suggest not driving the car at all until the problem is identified. If the radius arm is failing, it will likely fracture within a few miles of the process beginning, and similarly for a rotten subframe. The usual thing that develops fairly suddenly is a failing subframe, but if so, you should have had at least an advisory at the last MOT. It could also be a non-genuine subframe coming apart at the knowingly skimped welds. The scumbags that make some of these put lives at risk just to save a few seconds on the spot welding machine.

 

If the wheel has been kerbed, the damage may not be as likely to propagate to a total failure, at least in the short term, but it still needs to be identified and fixed.

[Cooperman]

Hi guys a friend pointed out my passenger rear wheel is toed in which would explain why when I corner it feels different to from the normal... (Which I noticed yesterday)
I've not had chance to properly look at it yet but I've not had any knocks or anything I know of that would cause it.
What could be the problem? Just to narrow things down? Bent subby, radius arm?
Thanks

 

It could be one of several things.

Possibilities include:

Bent sub-frame

Bent radius arm bracket

Corroded sub-frame

Bent radius arm.

 

The rear wheels should toe-in between 1 mm & 2 mm for optimum road-holding and best handling.

You need to examine this carefully, then get it measured, possibly after correcting any damage.

Edited by Cooperman, 09 March 2014 - 08:22 PM.

[liam1288]

Oh god... I don't want to be forking out for a new rear subby!
Radius arm isn't too bad to buy and fit but subby's, well I've not taken one off before they're quite expensive!
Are they fairly simple to remove?

[sonikk4]

Don't jump in too deep yet, start at the radius arm and any play in it. This is the easiest and the cheapest option.

 

Been there with this on my wifes Mayfair. Replacement radius arm fitted job done. Its difficult to bend a radius arm as they are quite substantial. Not impossible but you would know you had hit something to damage one of these.

[Carlos W]

Oh god... I don't want to be forking out for a new rear subby!
Radius arm isn't too bad to buy and fit but subby's, well I've not taken one off before they're quite expensive!
Are they fairly simple to remove?

As suggested above, get the car jacked up and see if there's play in the radius arm bush/bearing!

Have you hit any curbs lately?

[Dan]

First check if it actually is toed in. The rear of a Mini is narrower than the front, so the body effectively toes out. This makes the wheel look like it toes in a long way if you don't know what you are looking at, it's an optical illusion that comes up on here about every other month.

[liam1288]

Nah I've not hit any curbs...
Yeah I've noticed in the past a little toe in but looking tonight the passenger side looks like it's more so toed in than the drivers side.
Yeah I'll start with the rad arm but I did have to do the handbrake cable yesterday and did notice the subby wasn't looking too good! Or at least that's what I thought... When putting it on axle stands both edges of the subby were bending a little too much.
It has been roughly 7 years since the subframes were renewed as the guy I bought if off did them...

[Cooperman]

It is not too difficult to replace the rear sub-frame.

If yours is corroded or bent you really don't have much of an option really.

Take heart that unlike a lot of other classic cars, at least the parts are all available new. Imagine having a different classic like a Cortina Mk.1 or a Sunbeam Rapier. Parts for those cars are like rocking horse poo!

[alicetheauto]

Replacing a subframe is not difficult, but occasionally getting the damned bolts out that hold the subframe into the back of the sills seize and are difficult to remove. Lots of wd40!

[Cooperman]

Replacing a subframe is not difficult, but occasionally getting the damned bolts out that hold the subframe into the back of the sills seize and are difficult to remove. Lots of wd40!

No, don't use WD40. WD40 is most definitely not a penetrating oil in the same was as 'Plus-Gas' and similar fluids are. Plus gas is a good lubricant and is often sold as a pen oil, but it really isn't.

[Carlos W]

I found a bit of heat and gently loosening at tightening as well as penetrating oil and they came out! 

[62S]

If you have supported the car on axle stands across the webs it is no surprise that they have bent a little.

I'd get the tracking checked properly before you start a voyage into the unknown i.e. trying to fix a problem that you are not sure whether it exists. Wear in the radius arm is more likely to make toe out.