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Ultimate Road Use Suspension Setup?


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#1 campaj1

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 11:27 PM

Curious as to what you guys think is the ideal road use Suspension Setup?

So, something with a decent degree of ride comfort but maintaining sharp roadholding and/or steering feel.

(Haven't put this in Brakes, Suspension bit as I can't seem to post there for some reason.)

I myself wondered about how the following could work;

Smootharide cones

Sports dampers  (maybe KYB Gas-a-justs?)

Solid mounted front frame, rubber mounted rear.

Adjustable Cones.

Negative camber kit.

Anti roll bars of some description.

 

I know next to nothing about how all this works so feel free to shoot me down! 

Cheers,

A



#2 Alex_B

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 12:01 AM

It is very hard to achieve more than one outcome with the minis suspension. The limited travel available hinders any standard system being used which is why the rubber cone was developed. 

Designing the 'ultimate' suspension depends on the person its tailored for, personally being a 21 year old motorsport engineering student I have mine set up to be slightly harder than stock (25% uprated dampers) and then more negative camber for more grip in the corners, I have also added slightly more castor for better self centring. But it might be a different ultimate set up to someone who just likes to potter about, in that case softer cones would be more suitable and probably standard dampers (would have to try it and see) 

Both comfort and performance is rarely attainable and it is always down to compromises, depends on the driver on what they compromise on. 

Solid mounting the front subframe I would recommend for any application, it was only rubber mounted to make the car quieter for the mini target market in the 80s (ladies and older people) and solid mounting really helps the car feel 'tight' 

Anti roll bars are really unnecessary on a road car I believe, the mini already has firm suspension and limited amount of roll, they are excellent on the circuit but on the road you are unlikely to ever push the car hard enough into corners to witness roll. However on a comfort suspension set up there may be a need for an ARB, the suspension will be more compliant and that will result in more roll, so an ARB could minimise that without having to firm up the suspension and ruin the comfort. 

Thats the way I understand it anyway!



#3 campaj1

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 02:48 AM

^^ top answer, thanks!

Makes sense re: the limited space for suspension travel. 

It is indeed difficult to strike the right balance between pliancy and taughtness.
Minis don't really roll, you're right, the ARBs were only included in my list to temper the effect of the smootharides!
Sounds like the only thing unquestionably worth a go is solid mounting the front subby.


#4 Cooperman

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 10:16 AM

100% agree with Alex's comments.

 

Ideal front is 1 degree to 1.5 degrees negative camber with 3 to 3.5 degrees caster and 1mm toe-out.

For the rears figures of zero to -0.5 degs camber and, most vital, 1 mm to 2 mm toe-in.

 

KYB are not adjustable and a SPAX or GAX set-up would help to set it as you like it to feel.

 

Solid mounting of the front sub-frame makes a really huge difference to the sharpness of the steering and overall 'feel' of the car. In fact it makes is as Sir Alex Issogonis intended.

 

Rear anti-roll bars are for racing as they promote rear oversteer enabling the driver to brake late with the rear starting to drift out slightly, then get hard on the power right through the corner without generating understeer and thus getting the best exit speed for max speed down the next straight. I don't think one wants to be driving like that on the road ;D .



#5 jaydee

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 01:46 PM

KYB gas a just are the only non adjustable that i would reccomend over the pricey alternatives you can get from spax or even AGX

They're stiff, but not as spax yellow

Adjustabe 'cones', well what you need is hilos, get the genuine 'black' items, i wouldnt even bother with copies (unless you're on a very tight budget and you got good roads all round..)

 

Anything else has been said above.



#6 coopdog

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 05:27 PM

what about ride height?



#7 CMXCVIII

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 01:40 PM

what about ride height?

 

Standard ride height is best for road use!

 

You measure it if there's room for one troil under the wheelarches ;D



#8 campaj1

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 04:01 PM

100% agree with Alex's comments.

 

Ideal front is 1 degree to 1.5 degrees negative camber with 3 to 3.5 degrees caster and 1mm toe-out.

For the rears figures of zero to -0.5 degs camber and, most vital, 1 mm to 2 mm toe-in.

 

KYB are not adjustable and a SPAX or GAX set-up would help to set it as you like it to feel.

 

Solid mounting of the front sub-frame makes a really huge difference to the sharpness of the steering and overall 'feel' of the car. In fact it makes is as Sir Alex Issogonis intended.

 

Rear anti-roll bars are for racing as they promote rear oversteer enabling the driver to brake late with the rear starting to drift out slightly, then get hard on the power right through the corner without generating understeer and thus getting the best exit speed for max speed down the next straight. I don't think one wants to be driving like that on the road ;D .

Some useful info on precise setup there Cooperman...  It sounds like SPAX or GAX may be a more versatile option.

 

KYB gas a just are the only non adjustable that i would reccomend over the pricey alternatives you can get from spax or even AGX

They're stiff, but not as spax yellow

Adjustabe 'cones', well what you need is hilos, get the genuine 'black' items, i wouldnt even bother with copies (unless you're on a very tight budget and you got good roads all round..)

 

Anything else has been said above.

Have heard good things about gas-a-just, hence the mention! Sorry yes, meant hilos.

 

 

what about ride height?

 

Standard ride height is best for road use!

 

You measure it if there's room for one troil under the wheelarches ;D

 

haha this



#9 dennismini93

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 07:55 AM

How do you adjust caster and rear toe? Is it through shims?

#10 Carlos W

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 08:43 AM

How do you adjust caster and rear toe? Is it through shims?


You can vet adjustable brackets, I've also heard of people filing and welding the standard ones, but wouldn't recommend this unless you know what you're doing! (which I don't)

#11 dennismini93

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 10:08 AM

Cool ok. I'm tempted to look into this

#12 Shann2n7

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 10:29 AM

I was just wondering if anyone could tell me if the compressed part of coil over spring (rear) should be at the top or the bottom (ground or sky) on SPAX  RSX 519? Sorry if that's a really dumb question :P


Edited by Shann2n7, 27 May 2014 - 10:30 AM.





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