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#16 Moggyton

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 08:56 PM

Yh it will be a mixture of distilled water but will have acid mixed in within it too

 

Whats the best thing i should do? I got most of it up with a sponge and put it in a bucket but i left a cloth in the battery compartment to hopefully soak some up after pouring boiling water and baking power over it


Edited by Moggyton, 30 March 2014 - 08:56 PM.


#17 Ethel

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 09:39 PM

It ought to be fairly obvious if the battery lost that much acid, it'd very likely be cracked or seriously warped out of shape. If you're still unsure get the opinion of someone more knowledgeable - a wrecked battery makes for a good bomb. If a cell or two have developed an internal short the water could have been boiled out of them, and the battery voltage will have dropped, which could account for your starting issues also.

 

The rubber hose isn't the main issue it's the open (metal) pipe on the carb sucking in air.



#18 Moggyton

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 06:23 AM

It ought to be fairly obvious if the battery lost that much acid, it'd very likely be cracked or seriously warped out of shape. If you're still unsure get the opinion of someone more knowledgeable - a wrecked battery makes for a good bomb. If a cell or two have developed an internal short the water could have been boiled out of them, and the battery voltage will have dropped, which could account for your starting issues also.
 
The rubber hose isn't the main issue it's the open (metal) pipe on the carb sucking in air.

So the pipe needs to be clamped back on? Thanks.

#19 Moggyton

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 06:32 AM

Could it also sound like its turning over well but not be producing enough voltage to fire?

#20 Ethel

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 09:14 AM

Well volts equate to oomph, a fast spinning motor suggests there are enough to spare for making sparks. But there could be a cause for the ignition getting an unfair share - too much resistance on the ignition side, like broken wires 'n corroded contacts, or even a dodgy engine earth meaning some of those starter volts are trying to push the ignition's back where they came from as they try to find their way back to the battery.



#21 Rog46

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 04:51 PM

The breakdown guy said he thought my ignition coil had gone even though its pretty much brand new. 


Why was the coil changed? Are you certain it was the right one? It does sound like ignition, carry on testing for a spark.

#22 Moggyton

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 08:12 PM

 

The breakdown guy said he thought my ignition coil had gone even though its pretty much brand new. 


Why was the coil changed? Are you certain it was the right one? It does sound like ignition, carry on testing for a spark.

 

I had the engine rebuilt and changed pretty much everything under the bonnet for new stuff :P



#23 Rog46

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 07:59 AM

The breakdown guy said he thought my ignition coil had gone even though its pretty much brand new.


Why was the coil changed? Are you certain it was the right one? It does sound like ignition, carry on testing for a spark.
I had the engine rebuilt and changed pretty much everything under the bonnet for new stuff :P
Is it ballasted ignition or non-ballasted? Is the coil ballasted or non-ballasted? Check the resistance of the coil (Lt side) and check it hasn't gone open circuit. There are lots of threads on here about ballasted / non-ballasted ignition and what their resistances should be by people who know much more than me. A coil for ballasted ignition, if fitted to a non ballasted system will be overloaded and fail quite quickly.

Obviously you need to sort out the battery problem, I was just going back to why it suddenly failed, in my experience the recovery men are usually quite good at determining the basic problem.

#24 Moggyton

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 08:08 AM

The breakdown guy said he thought my ignition coil had gone even though its pretty much brand new.


Why was the coil changed? Are you certain it was the right one? It does sound like ignition, carry on testing for a spark.
I had the engine rebuilt and changed pretty much everything under the bonnet for new stuff :P
Is it ballasted ignition or non-ballasted? Is the coil ballasted or non-ballasted? Check the resistance of the coil (Lt side) and check it hasn't gone open circuit. There are lots of threads on here about ballasted / non-ballasted ignition and what their resistances should be by people who know much more than me. A coil for ballasted ignition, if fitted to a non ballasted system will be overloaded and fail quite quickly.
Obviously you need to sort out the battery problem, I was just going back to why it suddenly failed, in my experience the recovery men are usually quite good at determining the basic problem.
Sounds like that could be the problem, ill have a look later. Thanks!

#25 Moggyton

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 09:48 AM

If its electronic ignition is this a different coil altogether?

#26 Rog46

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 08:45 PM

I'm not at all familiar with electronic ignition, but I can't think of any reason why you shouldn't have it with either a ballasted or a non ballasted system. I don't believe it would need a special coil.

The basic premis of a ballasted coil is that when starting the power taken by the starter pulls the coil voltage down to around 9V, so they put a resister in series with the coil so it runs at 9V all the time. During starting a separate supply is taken to the coil bypassing the resistor so it still receives 9V. The resistance can be in the form of a resistor, or a "special" high resistance cable.

This thread goes into fault finding on such a system - http://www.theminifo...ed#entry3022926

#27 Moggyton

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 08:55 PM

I'm not at all familiar with electronic ignition, but I can't think of any reason why you shouldn't have it with either a ballasted or a non ballasted system. I don't believe it would need a special coil.
The basic premis of a ballasted coil is that when starting the power taken by the starter pulls the coil voltage down to around 9V, so they put a resister in series with the coil so it runs at 9V all the time. During starting a separate supply is taken to the coil bypassing the resistor so it still receives 9V. The resistance can be in the form of a resistor, or a "special" high resistance cable.
This thread goes into fault finding on such a system - http://www.theminifo...ed#entry3022926

So i could have the wrong coil?

#28 cal844

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 09:03 PM

Possibly!

#29 Moggyton

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 10:46 PM

When my new battery comes i will check the coil and distributor, thanks!

#30 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 03:40 AM

Hmmm I'd check the charging voltage before you do much else - unusual for a battery to cook up and split like that.






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