8 replies to this topic

[Jonny1812]

Right, ok, my hazards work beautifully but the indicators don't want to play ball at all. There is 12v to everything but when the switch is used to work the indicators ,the 12v disappears. I can't work out why evidently haha.
Has anyone got any ideas?
Thank you in advance.

[Austin mini 30]

Check your earths are clean and in a good condition.

Angus

[Bungle]

the hazard switch causes lots of problems

[KernowCooper]

If the voltage disappears it indicates a dirty connection, whereby it can provide voltage without any load, as soon as you turn on a load on the circuit it fails. This is just the same as a dirty/loose battery connection where all the dash lights come on, turn the key and woosh the voltage is gone, leave it and the dash lights come up slowly . check all the connections and the fuses, not forgetting the rear of the fuse box is its not obvious they corrode on the back.

[Jonny1812]

The fuses and box are brand new, I've been round all my earths and cleaned them up, all the connections have constant continuity.
It instantly goes from 12 to 02 as the circuit is closed then stays at 02 until the circuit is opened again.
Would a couple of startegically placed diodes in the hazard circuit help me out?

[Jonny1812]

Forgot to add that the flasher units are both brand new and working

[tiger99]

No, bodging around with diodes will do nothing at all that is helpful. Faults like this only respond to a logical approach, and although you have checked the earths, they never were implicated in this particular case (although ALWAYS a good idea to check and clean anyway, as they often are faulty! Preventitive maintenance is a good thing.)

 

As has been said, it is a high resistance somewhere in the circuit, so first, please tell us just where you were measuring the voltage. I am guessing at the lamps, which is quite a reasonable thing to do. Now, repeat the measurement at several other places, such as green at fuse box, and positive side of flasher relay (should also be green). The voltage at these points should stay up at battery voltage as you operate the indicators, if not, and it collapses, the problem is upstream, and as presumably your engine runs, the ignition switch and white circuit are probably ok, so it must be local to the fuse which feeds green from white. I would guess that the wire on one terminal has corroded inside the crimp terminal or under the insulation, not uncommon.

 

But if you report back with the voltage on the green circuit, we may be able to get more specific. Also, it may help if you tell us the model, year, and which electrical system type (e.g central instrument, 3 in front of driver, double fusebox plus inline fuses, 4 way box, larger box, etc)

[Dan]

Would a couple of startegically placed diodes in the hazard circuit help me out?

Why would you do that? Find what's wrong and fix it instead of trying to find a way around it. Are you measuring this voltage that vanishes at the flasher unit in, flasher unit out or stalk switch in? What Mini is it? Two flasher units or a combined one?

Edited by Dan, 03 April 2014 - 09:13 PM.

[Jonny1812]

It's a '76 clubby est with the clocks behind the steering wheel, two flasher units, one behind the clocks and one on the bulkhead and a 4fuse fuse box.
I thought that the switch was at fault so I've been using the terminals at the switch connection.

I'm still building the engine on the bench at the moment...

Well last night it started working after I cleaned both switches and ensured that they were both in good working condition, whilst doing this the gw wires came out of the back of the hazard block connector. At this point it all started working. Once I reconnected the wires properly it all stopped again but I only had 5v left which wouldn't be enough to power the flasher so the battery is on charge for me to have another check tonight.

All replies are much appreciated, thankyou