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Mini Sport 4 Pot Bleeding Nightmare


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#16 Carlos W

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 09:49 AM

I have fitted a few new calipers before, and use small blocks of ply wood to allow the pistons to come out further than they usually would with a brake pad. I dont know what happens exactly by doing this, maybe flooding the whole caliper inside with fluid vs air, then bleed as normal using ezi bleed at 20 psi or so.

 

The ply wood needs to be thinner than the brake pad to allow the psitons to come out, but not too thin that they will fall all the way out. You'll need to wind them back in after to allow the pad to go in, and probably remove some fluid from the reservoir so when the pistons go back in the fluid wont spill out the top.

 

This has worked for me every time, on single and split systems with 4 pots and cooper s single pots. May be worth a try.

 

It may be that pushing the pistons back in forces the last bubbles of air out of the system ??

 

I've had success leaving the brakes pressed overnight, but not on a mini 



#17 mini-geek

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 09:53 AM

Are you getting bubbles out or just a spongy pedal?

#18 josh.evans

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 10:45 AM

No bubbles just spongy pedal... will have another attempt tonight

#19 [email protected]

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 12:26 PM

During the active life of the brake master there is part of the bore that is never fully used. If this gets "scabby" when bleeding the full pedal activation can damage the seals causing the above. Its rare, but does happen, it may not be the calipers with any fault.

#20 mini-geek

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 12:44 PM

No bubbles just spongy pedal... will have another attempt tonight


Just a few suggestions then...

Is this with new pads? (EBC pads have a soft breaking compound on them) try using them to bed them see if it improves..

How hard are you pressing the pedal, these are not the best callipers (I have them) they do flex an alarming amount.. I have never been happy with mine...

Check that the pedal clevis pin is in properly, mine fell out once and that gave a very odd pedal feel..

#21 tiger99

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 01:32 PM

If your calipers are flexing alarmingly, they are unsafe, and you should not drive the car at all until they have been replaced. Some aftermarket calipers, and almost all alloy calipers, have a short and unpredictable fatigue life and are only suitable for low mileage track use. Often, but not always, it is stated on the suppliers web site that they are NOT for road use. If it says that, using them on the road is illegal and indefensible, and gives your insurance company an easy way of not paying out in the event of an accident. But any time that you fit any non-standard part, it is YOUR responsibility, and yours alone, to ensure that it is safe and fit for purpose, and unless the supplier blatantly and falsely claimed that a caliper was suitable for road use, the legal consequences would be upon YOU, the unsuspecting mug who bought some parts sold by an unscrupulous spiv of a parts supplier. (I don't mean YOU as any particular person in this thread, or even the forum, just some general person who has innocently bought some parts that are not fit for purpose. A lot of people here, including myself, have been conned on occasion....)

 

As for part of the bore of the master cylinder possibly becoming scabby, I agree entirely that it can happen, but please be aware that if a car is as badly maintained in the area of hydraulics as is needed to allow that to happen, the first failure of, say, the rear circuit will immediately result in the piston seal going into the scabby area, with an immediate loss of front brakes too. Inadequate maintenance can completely negate to fact that twin circuit brakes are fitted, as required by law. (So can even dafter things like using a sub-standard clevis pin, or re-using the split pin!) So, ALWAYS, maintain yout hydraulics BY THE BOOK, new fluid every 18 to 24 months WITHOUT FAIL, scrupulous cleanliness during rebuilds, throw away any cylinder whose bore is less than perfect, etc. You will end up spending far less time and money overall, and be safer. The constant tales of clutch hydraulic problems, again due entirely to lack of proper maintenance, quite frankly disgust me. If you can't look after your hydraulics, you should not be running a car. Any car. Stay safe, and avoid waste. End of story.


Edited by tiger99, 04 April 2014 - 01:32 PM.


#22 sonikk4

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 02:46 PM

Tiger where is your proof that and this is in your words "and almost all alloy calipers, have a short and unpredictable fatigue life and are only suitable for low mileage track use."

 

So what about motor bikes and all of those other cars on the road that have got alloy calipers fitted. 

 

Now for example Wilwood brakes are used on on trucks SUV's etc and are a popular choice for a lot of high performance cars. Nothing on their website screams they have a limited use / life. There are also other suppliers out there.

 

Now one particular brand may have an issue but that does not mean all other other alloy calipers have the same issue. I would not be making a statement like yours without irrefutable proof. 

 

I agree that anything YOU fit to your car that is not a standard part is your responsibility and care is needed. Indeed buy cheap and there could be ramifications. 



#23 Mini 360

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 02:51 PM

MiniSport calipers are safe and legal for road use.  Nothing on their site mentioning they arent for road use.....



#24 mini-geek

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 04:12 PM

Wow lot of capslock use in that post...

#25 The Principal

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 04:14 PM

My current car has MS 4 pots running EBC pads, they took some fiddling to get right but they work fine and stop the car on a six pence. I'm not a masssive fan of Mini Sport for their customer service but after two years my calipers work fine. It takes patience to properly bleed mini brakes including having the rears adjusted correctly.

 

As a thought what are you comparing the spongy brakes too as in what was fitted to the car before the 4 pots? are you comparing like for like? do you have a servo fitted? are there any leaks as mentioned above.


Edited by The Principal, 04 April 2014 - 04:18 PM.


#26 josh.evans

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 06:33 PM

Right re bleed no difference I have about 1.5inch of pedal travel then the pedals hard and won't really go any futher... I have driven then car and brakes work fine I only have to move pedal couple of mm then starts to brake so maybe they are correct I can't do any more maybe I shall post a video up of it tomorow?

#27 tiger99

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 01:09 AM

sonikk4, I am referring specifically to unbranded ali calipers from aftermarket suppliers, and some that are branded, and rather expensive, but not made by a recognised brake system manufacturer, and not tested to a sufficient number of load cycles. Sorry if that was not obvious. Willwood are made to US standards, which are likely to be less stringent than what we usually see in the UK, but probably still acceptable, and of course genuine AP, Girling, etc will be ok.

 

However, it is a necessary consequence of using ali that such calipers have a finite fatigue life, unlike steel, whose fatigue life will be infinite, if properly designed. We don't know what design assumptions the manufacturers have made. The only guidance I have found on the number of brake cycles to be applied was for trailer towbars, where the testing is for 100 million cycles, and if that is applied to brakes, certainly copper pipes will fail, many times over, and I have severe doubts that an ali caliper will survive. But it all depends on the detail design, and those which have been modified to get wheel clearance are extremely vulnerable, as metal has been removed from the vital, highly stressed area. I assume that certain German vehicles, for example, have plenty of metal in the critical part of the caliper, so that the remainder of the vehicle is life expired long before the caliper reaches the end of its fatigue life, but that may turn out to be untrue. I am seriously expecting an outbreak of structural failure of ali space frames and suspension parts within the next 5 to 10 years, and it will in part be due to owners having managed to stress the cars beyond the assumptions made by the designers. It does not take much repetitive overstress to undermine the calculated fatigue life very seriously.

 

Basically, none of the manufacturers are telling us what we really need to know, in order to determine whether their products are safe in our proposed applications, and for how long. And that is what concerns me most. I did see someone, possibly Willwood, publish rated pressure, which is a start, indeed on a steel caliper, if the peak pressure remains below the fatigue threshold, that is the only bit of information that is really needed, but with ali it is not that simple, and some kind of graph or formula relating peak pressure to cycles before failure is the bare minimum that would be acceptable.


Edited by tiger99, 05 April 2014 - 01:10 AM.





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