when my sister first got the car the 2nd gear baulk ring was broken when i changed the engine i fitted a new competition baulk ring . And 2nd gear now it went again just before the car came off the road can anyone tell me why thanks in advance

2Nd Gear
#1
Posted 05 April 2014 - 07:46 PM
#2
Posted 05 April 2014 - 08:07 PM
Not sure I follow exactly what you're saying or asking. If you changed the 2nd gear baulk ring it ought to improve gear engagement - a baulk ring is really a cone clutch that drives the gear hub until its speed matches the mainshaft and the dog gears can mesh to transmit drive. 2nd gear typically has the hardest time, especially if you box change from 4th. Additionally, as 3rd & 4th share the same synchro hub, it's already turning while the other gear is engaged.
#3
Posted 05 April 2014 - 09:58 PM
i have not stripped the gearbox yet but it is very difficult the get into second is there a common problem or is something else wrong with the gearbox the last baulk ring was in four bits when i took it out now the gearbox feel exactly like it did before i replaced the baulk ring and 2nd gear
#4
Posted 06 April 2014 - 06:17 AM
It is a common enough issue. I have a similar problem. I just change down into second at a lower speed and its fine.
#5
Posted 06 April 2014 - 07:51 AM
#6
Posted 06 April 2014 - 10:07 AM
it is very tight to get into gear even without the engine running
#7
Posted 06 April 2014 - 10:24 AM
#8
Posted 06 April 2014 - 10:40 AM
this car has the aluminum gearbox extension on it it is a 1973 mini
#9
Posted 06 April 2014 - 12:20 PM
Movement in the selector joints and rods, is probably the cause of your difficulty selecting gears, but as you've already replaced the baulkrings once then it's probably also compounded by issues with selector forks, and dog teeth wear...
Long and short, it's not going to get any better....
#10
Posted 06 April 2014 - 05:59 PM
many thanks for all the answers so it might have to be a throw away all internals and fit a s/c gear set plus i love the noise of s/c gears
#11
Posted 06 April 2014 - 06:03 PM
Going straight cut only replaces the gears, you may still need to replace the 1st/2nd synchro hub and the selector fork, aswell as anything else which may need replacing...
#12
Posted 06 April 2014 - 06:48 PM
i would change all the internals it is just an excuse for me to fit them because of SWMBO the only thing i would re use would be the casing thanks
#13
Posted 06 April 2014 - 06:57 PM
SWMBO??
#14
Posted 07 April 2014 - 11:53 AM
SWMBO??
She Who Must Be Obeyed ie the wife
#15
Posted 07 April 2014 - 12:58 PM
That's what I done when my 2nd gear was grinding
U could have the the engine and box in and out n
One day
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