13 replies to this topic

[Austin mini 30]

I have a plan for rust proofing my 1989 austin mini 30 on the underside.

 

1: take back all the old stuff + clean 

2: 2 coats of red oxide

3: 1 coat of hammerite black

4: spray with waxoyl

 

Is this going to be effective?

 

cheers Angus

 

 

 

[Carlos W]

I was reading an article which said that red oxide primer doesn't contain lead any more and is likely only to be red due to pigments

 

I think it was on here

 

http://www.mig-weldi...ay-painting.htm

[Carlos W]

 

Red Oxide/Red Lead

Red Oxide (otherwise known as red lead) was effective in the old days, and was famously used on the Forth railway bridge. The active ingredient was lead tetroxide which along with other lead paints could cause lead poisoning, and it has been withdrawn from use.

Red lead paints produced since the 1990s don't actually contain any lead. The red colour is just a pigment added by the marketing people to take advantage of public memory of real red lead primers.

[Covert]

If it was me i would use zinc rich etch primer and gravitex stone chip instead of hammerite

[Carlos W]

I've just done the underneath of mine with gravitex, then painted it!

 

It's lovely

[Covert]

Seems like nice stuff , cheap too !

[sonikk4]

Epoxy primer is the way to here then either topcoat followed by a Waxoyl type product or epoxy primer then stonechip followed by topcoat.

[Carlos W]

[Austin mini 30]

wow, that looks really good!!! might do that then haha

[ToM 2012]

you have to watch what your painting over so many layers can cause cracks reactions i sprayed my stone chip over the top of red oxide zinc primer that reacted and cracked in places so had to do it all again but put primer inbetween the zinc primer and the stone chip and that solved it. i then give it 3 coats of hammerite still like new to this day. 

[Mini 360]

I stonechipped mine and then painted hammerite on in two coats.  Bullet proof!

[Rog46]

Unless you can be certain that you have got back to bright shiny steel everywhere (i.e. No rust) then I'd advise some sort of rust converter/killer first!

[tiger99]

Yes, you do need to be sure to kill all rust, but show me a rust killer that actually works, if you can. Over the years I probably tried about 20 or them, and none worked for more than a few weeks or months. There may be some better ones on the market now, but please do your research carefully, and preferably mechanically (sander, grinder, flap wheel...) remove every trace of rust.

 

You then absolutely must use an etch primer, or a very good grit blasting to get good adhesion for an epoxy based zinc primer. Avoid "red oxide", it is inappropriate here, and just about anywhere else too. The first and second layers of primer are all-important, and I would be content with a plain epoxy primer, maybe Lechler, for the second layer.

 

Forget the Hammerite. Underneath, use a good modern stonechip (not Schutz, or bitumen-based junk) on top of the epoxy primer. You may then use body colour over the stonechip, purely for appearance.

 

The Waxoyl should be used very generously in box sections and cavities, and as far as possible in seams (e.g.fill the side seam trim strips with thick Waxoyl before fitting), but it achieves nothing, except attracting dirt, on flat metal areas.

[Twincam]

Bilt hamber deox gell is supposed to be a good rust killer - not used it personally.