8 replies to this topic

[ReeceTaylor]

Hi guys, my fuse box is playing up really bad lately, the guy before me had loads of random fuses in there but they kept tripping out and not working so I went to halfords and got a fuse pack (consisting of 10, 15, 25 and 2 x 35) but that still won't get anything to work (my Haynes manual says I need 15, 25, 25, 35)
My stereo, heater, indicators, brake lights and horn just don't work at all (although my hazards do but I assume that's working by a different fuse to the indicators)
Can anyone help?

[ReeceTaylor]

I do have more than 1 x 25amp by the way before anyone mentions that

[smithyboy]

I'm new to the game but have you checked the inline fuses as well as the ones in the fuse box? I was having a problem with my stereo not working and it turned out to be an inline one hidden behind the heater

[ReeceTaylor]

I'm new to the game but have you checked the inline fuses as well as the ones in the fuse box? I was having a problem with my stereo not working and it turned out to be an inline one hidden behind the heater

I haven't no mate but its definitely my main fuse box, whenever it'd usually stop working I'd mess about with the fuses in there and it'd start working again

[RedRuby]

Depending on the model year there are a number of fuse locations and of course whether the car has been modified by a previous owner.

A problem with the fuse box can be that although the fuses are intact the fuse holders can be weak and not always making a sufficient contact with the fuse, try gently pinching in the fuse holders to get a better contact, you should also check the back of the fuse box as it can be prone to corrosion.

Other fuse locations are inline fuse holders behind the airfilter box, there are also 4 inline fuse holders behind the dash near the steering column, and usually as mentioned, a single fuse holder for the radio under the steering column.

I would check them all out individually to see if the fuse is intact or there are any corroded or loose wires first.

[tiger99]

Yes, and check the wires carefully, as they often corrode inside the crimp terminals, and look ok, but are not actually connected.

 

Refer to the closest wiring diagram to your exact model in the Haynes manual (you are only interested in having the correct size of fuse box, some of the odd accessories and other differences are unimportant). The wire colours are ALWAYS consistent (unless they have been butchered) so, for instance, the purple accessory circuit (horn, sometimes hazards, and headlight flasher, maybe radio but often not) is fed by a fuse from the permanently live brown circuit, while the green, ignition controlled accessories, are fed by a fuse from the white (ignition switch) circuit, and that comes from the brown via the ignition switch.

 

I could run through it all, but you will learn more by following the circuits in the manual, noting the colours, and in any case will not accomplish much until you have cleaned up the fusebox and its terminals. I haven't seen your car, of course, but they all give trouble in that area, so yours will be no different....

 

My personal preference, when faced with an old Lucas fuse box, and inline fuses, is to throw them all away, one at a time to avoid getting the wires mixed up, replacing by modern blade fuses, which make much more reliable contact. The only thing to be aware of is that the Lucas rating is the "blow in one second" current, while the blade fuses, and indeed almost all other fuses of any type, anywhere, are rated on the continuous carrying current, so a 35A Lucas wants to be replaced by a 16A or 20A blade, etc.

[Milo1997]

anyone tell me where the inline fuses are for indicators,  brake lights , side lights etc ?

[tiger99]

The location varies by model unfortunately, but look behind the dash, on the engine side of the bulkhead, or even inside the steering column cowling.

[Austin mini 30]

I took my fusebox out and just cleaned all the connections, put some new fuses in and everything seems to be ok