9 replies to this topic

[Mrt88]

Hi all
As most of you know I'm putting in my new rear subframe in. I have it just about all built up.
However the bottom two nuts (one either side) that hold the trunion bols have come off.
I know I would have to cut the sills off to fix them. I'm hesitant to do that as there new(ish). I managed to find this online. Can someone have a look and see if it is a safe repair ? I am no welder so I will have to get someone to do it.
Would this be as good a repair ? Safe ?
http://www.dummett.n...rear_bolts.html

Any info would be amazing. Oh if anyone knows of any good welders in south london the please let me know too

Thanks all
Theo

[Vipernoir]

If the captive nuts have broken free, I have in the past drilled a 1" hole towards the back of the sill and used a normal nut & washer poked through and held in place with a finger while doing up the bolt.
With a penny washer and a spring washer, the nut stays put once nipped up and the bolt can be torqued appropriately.

 

A round hole in the sill is legal (think jacking points) and  grommet in the hole closes it up nicely afterwards.

[Mrt88]

If the captive nuts have broken free, I have in the past drilled a 1" hole towards the back of the sill and used a normal nut & washer poked through and held in place with a finger while doing up the bolt.
With a penny washer and a spring washer, the nut stays put once nipped up and the bolt can be torqued appropriately.
 
A round hole in the sill is legal (think jacking points) and  grommet in the hole closes it up nicely afterwards.

It is just the bottom of the two nuts either side.
That sounds like a very clever way of doing it ! Is there any chance you could take a picture at some point and show me the position buddy ? It would really be helpful. I'd massively appreciate it.

I'd just need to then find a 1" grommet to cover the hole.

[Vipernoir]

Unfortunately I did it to a car I no longer own, and I'm not sure if I have a pictures of it.

[Tamworthbay]

If the captive nuts have broken free, I have in the past drilled a 1" hole towards the back of the sill and used a normal nut & washer poked through and held in place with a finger while doing up the bolt.
With a penny washer and a spring washer, the nut stays put once nipped up and the bolt can be torqued appropriately.
 
A round hole in the sill is legal (think jacking points) and  grommet in the hole closes it up nicely afterwards.

its an interesting way of doing it. Generally the MOT man is not up on holes in each and every model so if it looks 'factory' it is usually ok. On the MX5 I have just bought I have drilled 10mm holes at the end of the sills and welded an M10 nut on. That way I can just whip the bolt out and spray cavity wax in. I did similar on my last escort, I asked the MOT guy at the time if it was ok and he said it was a fail. I did it anyway and he didn't notice.

[Mrt88]

I'm going to give this a go on Saturday. I'll get 2 "boot plug grommits" from mini spares, there really stiff and 1" so it should make it look really smart too.
That's fine about the picture. Thank you very much for the idea though!

Edited by Mrt88, 15 April 2014 - 05:02 PM.

[tiger99]

I am not sure if this will work because when the nuts break loose it is usually because the very important internal stiffner that links the inner sill (floor edge) to the heelboard and carries the captive nuts is rotten. That stiffner has a pressed-in rib, which will prevent a large washer from seating correctly.

 

Because of the importance of subframe mounts I would strongly recommend only doing the job properly, and that means opening it up. It is not all that difficult to cut away enough of the sill to get good access, to enable the stiffner to be de-rusted and repaired as necessary, or most often replaced, along with the heelboard end. A new piece of sill can then be butt welded in place. You can cut it from a complete spare sill, or fold it up in the vice from 0.9mm sheet.

[alex-95]

you can fix it by drilling a hole in the rear companion bin stiffener thing that sits on top of the arch closing panels like sonikk4 has done here.

 

Before you cut into the sill have a look in the companion bin. You will see the inner sill stiffener. Cut a hole in this large enough to get your spanner in there and then fit the nut a bit like this.


I will be fitting a blanking plate using an anchor nut to secure it.

[grck1]

hmmm just read this as im contemplating removing my subframe this week and worried about bolts shearing etc. had thought of this my self as a solution to the problem and would like to know if any one has any more experiances with doing it and if the op tried it?

[Carlos W]

hmmm just read this as im contemplating removing my subframe this week and worried about bolts shearing etc. had thought of this my self as a solution to the problem and would like to know if any one has any more experiances with doing it and if the op tried it?

Start soaking in penetrating oil asap, and apply some heat as you go.