6 replies to this topic

[Freelance]

Hi
I'm putting together a feature on tuning Minis, but though my mis-spent youth involved much of this I'm a bit rusty on the subject. Looking at the various specialist ads only makes matters more confusing...

So I'm interested in your ideas on what the current best set-up is for a Fast Road spec Mini, put together on a normal sort of budget. Something that goes well but still retains the essence of classic Mini – so no 16V Vauxhall conversions!

What are the hot tips on engine, gearbox, suspension, brakes and anything else that's relevant to making a Mini better? And will any two people agree?

I look forward to your responses!

Russ

[Purple Tom]

I fear this could be a long debate, however I'll add a bit of my experience and opinions to start with, in bullet form:

- Torquey engine (torque good, power not so crucial) - 1275cc or larger.
- Electronic ignition
- Decent carburation, in the form of a well set up set of twin SU's (which, contrary to popular belief, are THE BEST carb for a Mini, in my opinion)
- Good quality (read Maniflow or RC40) twin box exhaust and LCB manifold
- Adjustable suspension in the form of adjustable camber front and rear, adjustable castor and adjustable shock absorbers.
- 10" wheels
- 4-pot alloy calipers with vented disc brakes at the front, alloy finned rear drums, braided fleixible hoses throughout
- Solid mounted front subframe, poly-bushed rear

Thats a small summary, but something that I think can be achieved reasonably cheaply (probably sub 2k if you found a 1275 engine and did it yourself).

There are of course lots more to be added, like an SCCR gearbox, full roll cage, etc, however this isn't something thats easily affordable (1k + for a decent SCCR box and cage approaching 500 quid for a good one thats worth buying).

Hope that helps a bit, not sure how much detail you want though!

[Jammy]

For the cheapest budget I'd build the following:

998 lump
12G295/290 head, maybe a tiny bit of work done to it.
1.3 roller rockers
Megasquirt Ignition
Cross pin diff
Twin HS4s with stub stacks and ITG filter
SW5 camshaft
MiniSpares 2 core supercool rad

'Quickrack' steering rack
KAD or MiniSpares alloy 4 pots
MiniSpares performance handling kit.
10x5.5" wheels wrapped in Yoko A032Rs
Cobra classic seats
Stipped out interior with SD full cage and harness bar.

[Guess-Works.com]

It's a lot to do with personal preference, and other influencing factors such as age, insurance and budget...

Other than the power unit, I think the majority will agree, 10" wheels, Yoko A032R tyres, disks, lowered, high performance dampers, and if the budget stretches adjustable suspension geometry...A SCCR gearbox with an X-Pin diff, SC Drop gears, Diaphram light weight clutch flywheel ( orange spring and bonded clutch plate )

engine wise, you've got to be looking @ 1275 +, possibly forced induction ( turbo or supercharged )

[mambaman]

fully adjustable suspension with decent dampers, running on 10" wheels
1293 with a morspeed ph2/3 cam, ported head, duplex chain and a rebuilt bottom end. Std lightened pre-verto clutch/flywheel. Rebuilt gearbox with a 3.1:1 final drive.

Thats is exactly what i'd do to my next car if i was on a £3,000 maximum budget, starting with a car without rust.

[Pooky]

please pin this!

[flamin']

For me, A good fast road engine has to have a good amount of power/torque in the low/mid rev range. This means a 1275 is a must.

If i was to build a 1275 which offered good power per £, this is what i'd build.

- 1275 cc
- Kent 276 cam
- High compression ratio ( MG metro 10.3:1 )
- Standard Reconditioned Cylinder head.
- 3.21:1 Diff (As on the Metro turbos)
- Twin HS2 Carbs
- Lightened Flywheel
- Good quality Stage 1 Kit
- Fairly Light Dashpot oil ( For better throttle response ) i.e. 3 in 1 oil ( As long as the carb isnt running lean you shouldnt experience Flat spots)