17 replies to this topic

[Minidude7]

Can anybody help me!!! I have just fitted a new engine that i saw working in the car before it was removed...
I today bought a new battery after fitting the new engine and connecting all up but when I started it I think the solenoid got stuck as it just clicked...
I rocked the car to free the solenoid but as soon as I went to start again it went through a half turn and stopped again and then every time a turn the key it clicks again until I rock the car in gear again to free the solenoid. Tried cleaning the connections on the solenoid which I only replaced a year ago, giving it a bash but I'm out of ideas of how to get the engine to just turn over....
Is there any way it could have mis wired anything to cause it to not crank over, is there any way to check whether the starter motor has packed up or is mis wired??

[Minidude7]

Could it be a bad earthing?? I'm not sure of the current earthing strap position...

[pollystag]

Hi mate,
Have you tried shorting across the terminals of the solenoid ,just bridge the gap between the 2 main wires with a screwdriver or spanner if it fires up you need another solenoid.if you havnt done it before it may make you jump the first time you do it,ha.
Mind you just looking at your pst again it could be your starter motor is a bit tired.

Edited by pollystag, 18 April 2014 - 05:14 PM.

[Minidude7]

Would a bad earth on the solenoid connections to the inner wing cause this as I have just painted the engine bay??

[Dan]

Yes, the remote solenoid earths through its casing.

[Minidude7]

Would the bad earth cause the issues with it getting stuck??

[willava182]

This happened to me the other day actually, no matter how much I rocked it it still clicked, ended up being able to bump start ita after a few tries, and it freed it up for good

Edited by willava182, 18 April 2014 - 05:30 PM.

[dklawson]

The earth strap between the engine block (or gearbox casing) must have good clean connections at both ends.  Even if it means scraping off some of that new paint in the engine bay, you must do it.  If you don't have a good earth strap all the current for the starter motor has to flow through the choke and throttle cables with some rather serious after effects.

 

As Dan said, the solenoid has to have an earth connection through its mounting foot.  You said yours is clicking so it should be OK.  However, if in doubt, run an earth wire from one of its mounting screws to a good clean earthing spot on the car's chassis.

[Minidude7]

Ok.... So today I earthed the solenoid well and truely to the wing and made sure there was good contact on the engine strap but still no joy... I bridged the connections on the solenoid but still no such luck.... Still only a half turn then nothing.... Starter motor?? Or am I missing something else??

[Dan]

  When it stops is it kicking itself out?

[Minidude7]

What do you mean kicking itself out?.. When I release the solenoid which is stuck. I go to crank it and it does a half turn and stops and then when I go to crank it again it just clicks again and I have release to solenoid all over again...

[dklawson]

What do you mean kicking itself out?.. When I release the solenoid which is stuck. I go to crank it and it does a half turn and stops and then when I go to crank it again it just clicks again and I have release to solenoid all over again...

 

Which type of starter?

 

Inertia starters use a remotely mounted solenoid.  The remote solenoid is not something that typically gets stuck, it is nothing more than a huge electrical relay.  If it gets "stuck", its internal contacts are welded together.  There is nothing external you can do to un-stick them.

 

Kicking out is what an inertia starter motor does when the motor fires.  The inertia starter has a pinion gear mounted on a helical spline attached to the motor shaft.  When you turn the key to start the motor turns at high speed and the pinion gear is driven out into the teeth on the flywheel ring gear.  Once the engine starts, the engine speed is higher than the pinion gear speed and the motor's gear is "kicked out", back against a spring on the starter motor shaft.  All this makes some rather unique sounds.

 

Later cars used "pre-engaged" starter motors where the solenoid is a second cylinder piggy-backed on top of the starter motor.  When it fires, it electromechanically drives the pinion gear on the motor shaft into the teeth on the flywheel ring gear AND closes power contacts to spin the starter motor.  They sound very different in operation.

 

Your posts make it sound like you have an inertia starter but please look at it and some online pictures of starter motors.  The threads linked below include information on starter motor types and bench testing.  Once we are sure which you have we can walk you through additional starter motor testing.

 

Inertia Starter Thread:

http://www.theminifo...ine-wont-start/

 

Starter Motor Types Thread:

http://www.theminifo...tor-which-type/

Edited by dklawson, 19 April 2014 - 01:57 PM.

[Dusky]

starter motor bolts tight enough? mine did that too, and it was because one bolt was loose..

[Minidude7]

To answer your question in have an inertia starter motor... By the solenoid being stuck I mean it turns then just clicks and then when I give it a bash or rock the car in gear it frees the motor up enough for it to have another half turn before it sticks again...

[Stevie W]

Hi

Are you using the same starter motor that came with the engine and what age is the engine?
If you mix an inertia starter motor with a later ring gear, from memory the pitch of the teeth are different.

It's probably not the issue, but I thought I'd ask the question. Mis-matched starter motors and ring gears would give you engine cranking issues.

Cheers, Steve