18 replies to this topic

[lawrie124]

Quick question. How do I prep new non original panels before I stone chip them?

Where we have cleaned off the edges I will etch prime and seam seal, but the rest of it I am unsure about how to prep.

Any assistance much appreciated.

Mike

[sonikk4]

Remove the dodgy e coat first, then the surface will need to be keyed, thoroughly degreased ready for etch prime. 

[mini-geek]

What is dodgy about e-coat?

[sonikk4]

Pattern panel E coat literally falls off, give it a wipe with some thinners and it comes away very easily. Remove it all with said thinners then key it.

 

Heritage E coat is a far superior product.

[mini-geek]

Ahh.. If it comes off with thinners it's not e-coat..

So yeh get rid of it and etch prime it or give it a coat of zinc spray and wax oil or stone chip depending where it is..

[geoff-d]

Gunwash cleaned it all off with a bit of a rub

[lawrie124]

Thanks all. I will clean it off and etch prime the bare metal to be safe.

Mike

[Ben_O]

Etch primer and Zinc?

[sonikk4]

Etch primer and epoxy primer i think is the way forward for stone chipping.

[lawrie124]

Thanks. Not sure what epoxy primer is but will find out.

[sonikk4]

Talking to some of the peeps on here its moisture resistant unlike standard primer which is not.

[Ben_O]

Talking to some of the peeps on here its moisture resistant unlike standard primer which is not.

So is Zinc primer. It's not porous apparently. I used it on my 25 after the flood following some advice i received and was told that as well as preventing moisture ingress and protecting bare metal, it also has the ability to neutralise any trace amounts of rust remaining in the steel.

It's been on mine months now and still looks as good as it did the day it went on.

 

I plan to use zinc primer on the rest of the shell followed by probably a 2k primer.

 

I was also advised to apply a 2k top coat finish paint onto the primer before applying the stone chip. Obviously you would need to allow the paint to fully cure and flat it down to take away the shine to provide a key before applying the stone chip but this would provide good protection under the stone chip.

Flatting the finish coat down before it fully cures would break the film and allow the solvents to evaporate quicker too.

 

Ben

[cal844]

What we do with fresh panels is

Weld them on (obviously!!)
Wipe off ecoat then key the bare metal
Prime with high build 2k primer (as many coats as you like)
Stonechip where required (2-3 coats)
Key the stonechipped areas with scotch pad
Paint in usual manner!!

[Petrol]

Some misconceptions going on here

E coat is an electrical deposit method used on bare metal. It's best to leave it on and scuff it with scotchbright before priming. It's harder and offers better protection than any paint.

Some (not all) non genuine panels are dipped in paint to stop them rusting. The best way to tell is to wipe the coating with thinners. If it comes off, it's paint. Genuine E coat cannot be removed with thinners.

 

As for the rest of it, Ben_O is right. Most primers, including 2K are porous. On a long term project, it's best to prevent any moisture getting in with either zinc primer or a 2K top coat.

 

Pete

[lawrie124]

Ok. Some good advice on here. Thanks.

When we did my lads car we took all the black coating off with gun wash but it took a while. I will try thinners later.

Mike