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De Rusting Inside Petrol Tank


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#1 Coxie

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:56 PM

So, my tank has some rust inside so I'm going to de rust first using vinegar and a few nuts and bolts to knock off the loose stuff.
I'm then going to use the por 15 tank repair kit to seal it up.
Has anyone used this kit, if so how did it go?
The only thing I'm worried about is, will the tank sealer block up this part in the bottom of the tank.
Sorry for the rubbish photo, it's pretty hard to fit an iphone in the sender unit hole.
Attached File  image.jpg   30.21K   21 downloads

#2 Tamworthbay

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:58 PM

Bilthamber Deox C is a far better rust remover, just mix with water and leave for a few hours.

#3 Coxie

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:59 PM

Do you think the tank will still need sealing afterward?

#4 Tamworthbay

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 06:04 PM

How often do you use the car? If its in regular use then it should be ok, if its a toy and gets left months over the winter then might be best to seal it.

#5 domdee

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 06:06 PM

i saw someone doing a van tank. with some electrodes in it and some sort of liquid. not sure how or what they where doing?!



#6 Coxie

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 06:11 PM

Car is still just a shell but getting there slowly
Attached File  image.jpg   50.33K   10 downloadsAttached File  image.jpg   51.33K   7 downloads
It's going to be a summer toy so was going to get the sealer kit with the petrol additive.
I just didn't know if the pipe in the bottom of the tank had a gauss in it that would get clogged up when putting the sealer in.

#7 Coxie

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 06:20 PM

i saw someone doing a van tank. with some electrodes in it and some sort of liquid. not sure how or what they where doing?!


Sounds way to complicated , but possibly more fun.

#8 Covert

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 07:01 PM

i saw someone doing a van tank. with some electrodes in it and some sort of liquid. not sure how or what they where doing?!


Sounds way to complicated , but possibly more fun.

Electrolysis, i use this method all the time

#9 Dusky

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 07:10 PM

Basicly its hanging a metal in a soda/water mix- filled tank.

 

I think the negative terminal of a battery should be connected to the tank, the positive to th emetal hanging inside the filled tank( carefull, do not let the metal tough the tank or you will have a short)

The metal will start to detoriate and the molecules will attach them to the inside of the tank because it is negative( a bit like static electricity with a balloon).

And so you will get a nice, shiny tank on the inside..



#10 Coxie

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 07:37 PM

Interesting.
Might look into this, thanks for all your input.

Edited by Coxie, 23 April 2014 - 07:37 PM.


#11 Doodling

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 08:02 PM

I used a product sold by FROST. It was a clean, metal prep then re sealed the tank. The name slips me at the moment, but it was the one for a bike tank and was plenty enought for a minis tank.

#12 mini13

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 08:48 PM

Ive used the Frost stuff too, its a POR15 product, mine came as part of a tank sealing kit, I think the stuff is called Metal Ready.

 

Worked really well, left the inside of the tank looking like it'd been blasted.



#13 dklawson

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Posted 24 April 2014 - 01:48 AM

I don't know how many of the POR kits Frost sells.  However, if they sell the motorcycle tank lining kit, that is what you want for a Mini.  The kit will come with Marine Clean ( a very strong caustic cleaner), Metal Ready (a refined phosphoric acid) and the POR tank coating material.

 

By all means, use the nuts and vinegar first.  Get as much of the grunge out of the tank as you can before working with the small quantity of cleaner and acid that come with the POR kit.  Nuts, bolts, lengths of chain, even gravel... all work to help you knock the crud off the inside.  Just like any other painting project, your results will depend on the amount of prep work you do and how closely you follow the directions.  Spend a lot of time on the prep work and you will have good results.

 

Don't worry about that pickup tube screen.  Use a long steel rod through the filler neck (and a hammer) to drive the filter off the end of the tube.  When you are ready to put the POR sealer in the tank, take a large diameter piece of vinyl insulated electrical wire, smear it with Vaseline, and insert it in the pickup tube until you can see it enter the tank.  After the POR coating cures, pull the wire out.  To protect your fuel pump in the future, install a coarse filter between the tank and the pump intake port.

 

I have lined three tanks using different products each time.  I prefer the POR kit.  The chemicals are not as nasty, the process went well, and the end result is you have a tank that still looks "metallic" on the inside.  Other kits typically use a white coating material that looks out of place and discolors quickly with exposure to gasoline.

 

All that being said... why not get a new/used tank?  Being in the U.K. you should have access to a lot of good used parts that were not available to me when I chose to line tanks.



#14 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 24 April 2014 - 03:50 AM

Don't use nut's and bolts - you'll only make the surface of the tank more likely to rust afterwards. There are loads of good youtube videos showing how to do this - but to be frank if the tank is that bad then ditch it.



#15 dklawson

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Posted 24 April 2014 - 11:39 AM

If the plan is to line the tank with a product like the POR kit, DO use the nut, bolts, rocks, etc.  Your goal is to get all the rust and deposits out so the liner will bond well to the inside of the tank. 

 

However, I do agree that if you are NOT going to line the tank, getting the rust out is likely to just open up pin holes (and larger holes) that are currently plugged with rust.  So... nuts and bolts if lining... don't do any aggressive cleaning at all if you are not going to line the tank.






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