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Tight Bearings Help Please


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#1 Mrt88

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 06:39 PM

Hi all. I've just torqued up my new rear hub nuts to 60ibft as per Haynes and some other refrances.

The hubs feel tight to hand turn. How easy should they be ? I'm really worried now that I've done something wrong.
The hubs where completely stripped and inspected. I replace the bearings. Greased them properly and made sure they where fully seated.

Can anyone give me any idea if what they should feel like ?

Thanks all
Theo

#2 carbon

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 07:26 PM

They should turn very easily by hand.

 

If they are binding up when the nut is torqued down then sounds like something is wrong.



#3 HarrysMini

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 07:42 PM

If a bearing is locking up the wheel when torqued up correctly, it needs to be removed and have a genuine Timken bearing fitted.

 

There are lots of threads regarding this recently. Search for 'tight wheel bearings' or something, there will be numerous threads. 



#4 Stevie W

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 07:47 PM

Hi,

As Carbon stated, they should turn relatively easily, with the hub nut torqued up.

The only drag you should feel is from the grease and the fact that you're turning just the hub without the weight and inertia of the wheel.

Did you use genuine bearings and keep them as a matched pair when installing them? It could be a spacer problem on the inner races. The spacer or inner races butting up against each other sets the bearing "pre-load" and they are accurately machined to give the correct pre-load once the hub nut is torqued up.

Cheers, Steve.

#5 Mrt88

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 07:59 PM

Ok I think I may have done something wrong here.
They are not gen taper bearings. I did keep them as matching pairs and only did one side at a time.

I am not sure what you guys mean by inner races ? The inner half of the bearing that is tapped into place ?
When I cleaned out the hubs and knocked out the old bearings there was an "inner section"that looked like it was part of the hub. I drafted the inner racers to but up against it. Am I being thick or was this section supposed to be taken out ?

Sorry about my confusion but my Haynes or my brain isn't really clear on this.

Thank all so much !
Theo

#6 Stevie W

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 08:24 PM

Hi Theo,

No, the ridge that you tap the outer (larger) bearings races up against stays in the hub and is part of the hub.

The inner races protrude inwards towards each other and they meet and touch when the hub nut is torqued up.

If these inner races don't protrude inwards sufficiently, then when the hub nut is torqued up, it places too much pre-load on the bearings and hence the hub won't turn freely.

Hope I've explained it clearly!!!!

Cheers, Steve.

#7 Mrt88

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 08:39 PM

I think I now understand. What would stop them "protruding inwards " enought. I've drafted them tight up against that inner spacer. Packed them with grease. Used a new washer and seal at the back (sorry I forgot its name).
So what are my options to if my issue. I don't think it's massive, if I back off the nut a bit it turns freely.

As a test I out the new pads on and new drum, it rubs on the pads. I'm not sure if that's relivent or a different issue.

I really really appreciate the help buddy. Hope I can get this sorted

#8 Stevie W

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 08:53 PM

Hi Theo,

If there were any burrs or "dings" on the shoulder of the hub, this would prevent the outer races sitting right against the shoulder.

This effectively stops the inner races protruding far enough in, which will make it seem that there is a problem with the bearings.

I'd suggest that you carefully tap out the outer races again and check the hub shoulders. If you find any burrs etc. then these can be carefully removed with a needle file or some wet/dry paper. Then clean and re-clean the hub shoulders and bearing outer races and refit them.

Genuine bearings are always the best ones to buy, but that's not to say all non genuine bearings are of a poor quality.

Keep at it Theo....you'll get there in the end!

Cheers, Steve

#9 Mrt88

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 09:14 PM

ok that makes sence now,

i'll keep at it, hopefully i can get it sorted in the moringing. i'll slowly tap them out and clean it up again.

i have two more questions steve, sorry haha

do i need to then tap the inner races ? or just sit them in palce. also i used the packet grease that came with the bearings. whats the coreect grease i should bye ? 

 

thanks again so much steve !!!


Edited by Mrt88, 25 April 2014 - 09:15 PM.


#10 Stevie W

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Posted 26 April 2014 - 05:25 AM

Morning Theo,

The inner races should be backed with a good quality lithium grease and simply placed into position when you assemble the bearings & hub. Hope all goes ok!!

Cheers, Steve

#11 tiger99

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Posted 26 April 2014 - 10:27 AM

If you need more grease, because you have disturbed the bearings, Castrol LM is ok, the same stuff that you ought to have in your grease gun for the nipples. It is a good quality lithium grease, as Stevie W says you need, and also is cheap. Just occasionally, cheapest is best, and I expect it will be better than whatever was supplied with the bearings. You can actually get much better, and expensive, wheel bearing greases, but they are not really necessary on a Mini, and will not help your immediate problem. Good luck with that by teh way, I hope you have not become yet another victim of the bearing counterfeiters.

 

But best not to mix different types or brands of grease, because often it degrades into a runny mess, with the oily part leaking out, leaving just the soapy part, which is not a good lubricant. So, best to wash them out with petrol, and shake dry before regreasing. Please do not spin a clean, dry bearing, it can to serious damage. If you want to feel them once cleaned, to check that they still run properly, grease or oil needs to be applied first.



#12 Mrt88

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Posted 26 April 2014 - 03:17 PM

Thank you very much for the great replys guys ! I really really so appreciate it.
Spent all of today fitting the rear sub. Got everything in place great. All my lines connected etc.
so I've kept the hubs back and cleaned them. I've taken them apart. Kept each side in different packets.
So tomorrow I'll draft them back out. Do a massive clean. Scribe the inside edge to to be sure it's super clean and try again. I'll nip out in the morning an get some grease. Fingers crossed by the close of play tomorrow I should have a finished rear end.
I will give you guys a update tomorrow :-)
Thank you all again !
Theo

#13 Stevie W

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Posted 26 April 2014 - 03:29 PM

Good luck Theo!! :)

#14 Mrt88

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 07:48 PM

Hi everyone.....update time.
I took apart one of the hubs completely. Cleaned everything with spirit soap etc. cleaned the hub as best I could. Use some wire wool and a scribe to make sure the hub was totally spotless !
I used a brand new tub if castrol lm, greased everything and put the hub back together. I really took my time and made sure the races where 100% diven home.
Once I torqued it up I had the same problem. It was very stif to turn. If I back it off a bit I could turn it.
Any new ideas souls be amazing ? Should I spend £60 on gen bearings ? Anything else ?
Thanks everyone
Theo

#15 Mrt88

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 09:45 PM

Hi guys, another question for you all. Are the inner racers supposed to meet in the middle ? I may just give up and get two sets of gen bearings.




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