22 replies to this topic

[ucchockey]

Can someone tell me how to rewire the solenoid and coil. I need to know what should be connected to the solenoid and coil and where the wires should go to/from.
It's a non ballast system. Electronic ignition. Two big terminals on solenoid and two spade connectors.
It's not working right at the moment as I only get spark after I return the key to normal position after cranking. Something is wrong so I figure if I disconnect it all and rewire it correctly it would be for the best.
Thanks tech guys.

[Gremlin]

If you have not disconnected it all, tell is what is connected to where (not wire colours) and we can help

[dklawson]

Which starter?  The inertia starters have a remote solenoid, the pre-engaged starters have a solenoid piggy-backed on top of the starter motor.  The wiring for the two is similar but still different.

 

As above, give us something to start with (and perhaps post a picture of what you have) and we can help.

[ucchockey]

It's a remote solenoid. The loom is all wrapped up. I thought it would be easier to just unplug all existing and rewire. How do you post pictures?

[ucchockey]

I will have to unwrap the loom I guess and see where the wires are going. I'll get back to you when I get chance to unwrap it all.

[dklawson]

To post pictures they must first be "online"  (Photobucket etc).  While in the editor, look for the small icon showing a tree inside a picture frame.  Click on it and enter the address of the image.

 

The remote solenoid is traditionally for the inertia starter.  It will have two threaded studs.  See the images in the following recent thread (see post #3, mine).

http://www.theminifo...uck-in-on-mode/

 

The "upper" threaded stud (furthest from the mounting foot) gets the main battery cable from the boot AND ALL the brown wires.  The bottom threaded stud accepts the cable going to the starter motor.  The small spade (trigger) terminal is for the white/red wire coming from the ignition switch.  The solenoid MUST have a good earth connection through its mounting foot.  If the mounting surface on the car is painted or otherwise questionable, run a dedicated earth wire from a good clean metal spot on the chassis or engine to a screw used to mount the solenoid.  You said your solenoid has two small spade terminals.  Look carefully at the pictures in the link above.  Note the location of the one marked "trigger".  The other terminal (not shown in the linked pictures) is not used on your car, it is for cars with ballast ignition systems and you said you have electronic ignition.

 

You did not say if your ignition was factory/OEM or aftermarket.  The OEM ignition needs a special coil unique to it.  If you have a factory electronic ignition, make sure you have the correct coil.  If you have an aftermarket electronic ignition, for negative earth and non-ballast wiring they follow a very simple wiring scheme.  The common models fit inside the distributor and have two wires, red and black.  The red wire goes to coil (+) and the black wire goes to coil (-).  There will be a white wire coming from the ignition switch going to coil (+),  That's pretty much it for coil wiring.

 

When you turn the key to the run position, current flows down the white wire from the ignition switch to coil (+).  The red wire from the ignition module is also connected to coil (+) and that connection supplies power to the ignition module's electronics.  The black wire of the ignition module is the earth path for current flowing through the ignition coil.  When the distributor shaft turns, it opens and closes an electronic switch which interrupts the flow of current through the coil (taking the place of points).

 

When you turn the key to the start position all of the above paragraph still applies but an additional temporary switch contact is made.  This contact supplies current to the white/red wire connected to the spade terminal on the solenoid.  While that wire is energized, the solenoid closes.  The solenoid is effectively a jumbo relay which when closed allows massive current to flow to the starter motor.

 

If your car's wiring colors are not factory correct, it would be helpful to you in the future to source wire in the correct colors and replace what is there.  Having the correct wire colors will simplify troubleshooting.

[ucchockey]

So if I put a multimeter on the coil positive what should the voltage be when cranking?12volt?
Is that how I would check if it's wired correctly other than pulling the loom apart?

The electronic ignition is aftermarket but I don't know if it's for non ballast as I didn't buy or install it. What effect would it have it it was for ballasted when my car isn't ballasted?
Many thanks.

[ucchockey]

The wiring seems correct looking at your link. Maybe it isn't earthed well enough. Can it be earthed enough to turn over but not enough to start it easily? Doesn't explain why it starts only when the key is released.

[Gremlin]

If the battery is a bit past it's best of the starter is drawing a lot of current then there will be too much voltage drop and not enough to get a decent spark, when you let go of the key there is almost no power being drawn and you get a big fat juicy spark :) It bursts into life and everyone looks round in amazement of why it started when you stopped turning it over

[ucchockey]

I can test the battery at work easily enough. It's worth a shot. Cheers.

Edited by ucchockey, 05 May 2014 - 11:33 PM.

[dklawson]

Has this engine ever run since you owned the car?

 

You asked about possible earth problems.  Not likely in this case.  The ignition system gets its earth connection through the distributor housing and its contact with the engine block.  You know your engine has a good earth connection because the starter is working. 

 

You misunderstood my questions/comments about ballast vs standard ignition systems.  To the best of my knowledge there is not electronic ignition designed for ballast ignition systems.  The connection point of the ignition module's red wire is different when dealing with ballast ignition systems to insure the module gets a full +12V.  

 

You may want to temporarily refit a set of points and condenser to the distributor to see if you can get the engine to fire with the simple ignition system.  That will also give you reason to go through the whole ignition system and make sure the timing is correct.

Edited by dklawson, 06 May 2014 - 02:58 AM.

[ucchockey]

The engine runs brilliantly and has been used frequently. I'm just trying to understand why if you keep the key turned it just keeps cranking over. It's only when you release the key that the engine fires. It turns over well but doesn't catch until you let the key go.

[Gremlin]

Check the ignition switch, if when you turn it to the start position it only gives power to the start terminal on the switch, exactly this ^^ will happen

[ucchockey]

How do I check the ignition switch please? Do you mean the bit in the steering column?

[Dan]

Yes. Unplug it and get a meter on it to test how reliable it is in each position.