19 replies to this topic

[brad-the-bear]

hello again,

 

right clutch has been bled up and has has new master and slave cylinders and also pipe & flexi. ive built an engine (first pre verto) and ive bled the clutch up and fitted a new clutch plate but not the diaphragm. also new bearing and plunger etc have been stripped, inspected and greased.

 

the reason i have used an "old" diaphragm is that it was fitted to a flywheel that i bought and was more or less new and was a "orange" diaphragm.

 

now my problem,

when i bled the clutch up (without setting stop adjustment) the pedal felt ok, it would go all the way down and return back.

I set the stop adjustment by removing the spring and pulling the clutch arm towards the inner wing (pulled out pretty far) then winding out the bolt to 0.020"  freeplay. then i reattached the spring and when you press the clutch pedal it's ROCK SOLID. something that raised a concern was how far i could pull out the arm until "contact" so is the slave just "bottoming out"?

here is a pic to show how far the stop bolt is set

 

 

cheers,

bear.

[Captain Mainwaring]

Take the clevis off and drop a bar over the rod, can you actuate the clutch now?

[The Principal]

from the picture it looks like the two large nuts on the plunger are tight against the clutch cover (wok) suggesting you may have over adjusted the clutch hence the pedal is rock hard as the operating arm has no travel available. Suggest you wind the stop bolt back in until there is a natural gap when at rest and re-adjust it.

[brad-the-bear]

Take the clevis off and drop a bar over the rod, can you actuate the clutch now?

will do.. as soon as it stops belting it down 

 

from the picture it looks like the two large nuts on the plunger are tight against the clutch cover (wok) suggesting you may have over adjusted the clutch hence the pedal is rock hard as the operating arm has no travel available. Suggest you wind the stop bolt back in until there is a natural gap when at rest and re-adjust it.

took the large nuts off in anger/fustration just to be sure. still rock solid 

[The Principal]

 

Take the clevis off and drop a bar over the rod, can you actuate the clutch now?

will do.. as soon as it stops belting it down 

 

from the picture it looks like the two large nuts on the plunger are tight against the clutch cover (wok) suggesting you may have over adjusted the clutch hence the pedal is rock hard as the operating arm has no travel available. Suggest you wind the stop bolt back in until there is a natural gap when at rest and re-adjust it.

took the large nuts off in anger/fustration just to be sure. still rock solid 

 

 

I understand that but you may need to start again, slacken both lock nuts and wind in the lock bolt. Is there any movement in the plunger have you checked its not seized?

 

From your pic the operating arm is almost vertical suggesting the clutch has been operated, normally pre-verto arms should be more like 1-2 o'clock if viewed from the side when at rest

 

 

I borrowed this pic from another post - this one looks more natural -

 

Edited by The Principal, 06 May 2014 - 06:14 PM.

[freaker]

how is the arm looking that operates the clutch ? 

 

i replaced my clutch and it didn`t work clutch plate and friction plate. due to wear of the arm that operates the clutch. changed a few parts on it and its working again...

 

freaker

[Stevie W]

Hi,

As Freaker days, check the ball on the bottom of the arm, which engages with the hole in the release bearing plunger.

I've actually had one of these clutches lock up on me on my old Austin 1100 many years ago. The ball on the bottom of the arm had actually sheared off!!

Cheers, Steve.

Edited by Stevie W, 06 May 2014 - 06:30 PM.

[KernowCooper]

Here is the adjustment for the non verto setup

Attached Files

•  Clutch adjustment Mini non verto.png   77.39K   20 downloads

[brad-the-bear]

right, i can move the clutch in and out with a bar, its almost like the push rod is too short?

bellow is a picture of the 2 arms i have the one on the left is the one fitted and the one on the right being a spare. i fitted the spare one and i still had the same problem. are they both knackered? they are both slightly different in design.

 

 

if they are OK then this points to the plunger/onwards correct?

here is a video of how far the plunger moves to touch the diaphragm. is this about right or is the plunger moving too far?

[brad-the-bear]

also:

[Gremlin]

Wind the throwout nuts well away from the wok, do the stop bolt like you've been doing, then set the throwout nuts as per Kernows picture guide and see if you have a clutch

[KernowCooper]

I have to say that lever looks very verticle at rest ? Long shot but the casings not cracked at the base where the 2 sides the lever works in?

[brad-the-bear]

Wind the throwout nuts well away from the wok, do the stop bolt like you've been doing, then set the throwout nuts as per Kernows picture guide and see if you have a clutch

done to no avail

[Stevie W]

Might be worth whipping the wok off and making sure all is ok inside, check the clutch release bearing.
It looks like there's far too much arm/plunger travel.

Cheers, Steve.

[brad-the-bear]

I have to say that lever looks very verticle at rest ? Long shot but the casings not cracked at the base where the 2 sides the lever works in?

will check in the morning, that's exactly what is annoying me. the arm is too vertical before it hits the clutch.

 

is my plunger wrong?

http://www.minispare...c/22A180MS.aspx

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 what's the difference between these two?