25 replies to this topic

[KernowCooper]

 

agree with the previous comments plus I would be checking the clutch throw, check the adjustment of the clutch arm. You can wind the stop nuts in towards the clutch cover a touch its trade off between pushing the crank against the thrust washers and getting the clutch to disengage. The grey diaphram wont help because of the force needed to push it so the stop nuts will prevent the clutch pressure forcing the crank against the thrust washers

If i adjust the clutch up correctly (from the info provided on here) then i cannot get it into gear. You cant even force it into gear. If i wind the over throw nuts right out (towards the end of the thread) the clutch works fine, just that the engine revs dip a bit.

 

You have something wrong with the clutch setup, the overthrow nuts should be setup as per the info here, if you wind the nuts off you can load up the crank thrusts. Set the overthrow nuts up and the clearance on the adjustment arm, and then look at the hydraulics to ensure its throwing the clutch fully.

[GreenMini17]

Any electronics switched with the clutch? 

Not sure i understand the question but no, there are no electronics involved with the clutch.

[GreenMini17]

 

agree with the previous comments plus I would be checking the clutch throw, check the adjustment of the clutch arm. You can wind the stop nuts in towards the clutch cover a touch its trade off between pushing the crank against the thrust washers and getting the clutch to disengage. The grey diaphram wont help because of the force needed to push it so the stop nuts will prevent the clutch pressure forcing the crank against the thrust washers

If i adjust the clutch up correctly (from the info provided on here) then i cannot get it into gear. You cant even force it into gear. If i wind the over throw nuts right out (towards the end of the thread) the clutch works fine, just that the engine revs dip a bit.
 

You have something wrong with the clutch setup, the overthrow nuts should be setup as per the info here, if you wind the nuts off you can load up the crank thrusts. Set the overthrow nuts up and the clearance on the adjustment arm, and then look at the hydraulics to ensure its throwing the clutch fully.

This is my thought too. But when the clutch is set per instructions on here, i cannot get it to engage a gear. How would i know if the hydraulics are working correctly? The master and slave cylinder are both brand new, genuine ap items. I have about 8-10mm of clutch arm travel at the top of the arm.

[KernowCooper]

8-10mm ? You have a non verto setup so the clearance between bolt head and arm is set to 20thou, if you have 8-10mm there you have lots of lost movement before the clutch hydraulics operate, thus reducing clutch throw. So if the clearance shown below is 8-10mm there is the problem

Attached Files

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Edited by KernowCooper, 12 May 2014 - 06:35 PM.

[GreenMini17]

8-10mm ? You have a non verto setup so the clearance between bolt head and arm is set to 20thou, if you have 8-10mm there you have lots of lost movement before the clutch hydraulics operate, thus reducing clutch throw. So if the clearance shown below is 8-10mm there is the problem

No, i have 8-10mm of travel at the top of the arm. Where the clevis pin goes through for the slave cylinder to attach.

[KernowCooper]

So whats the clearance between arm and bolt head as shown in the picture?

[GreenMini17]

Ive set it to 20thou as per instructions on here. This coupled with the other set up instructions means that i could not get it in gear.

[KernowCooper]

So do you have wear in the ball at the base of the lever where it fits in the shaft? get someone to dip the clutch while you watch for the shaft with the overthrow nuts move, failing that if its setup as the instructions then the clutch is dragging and the next step for me would be a strip down and check the plate/diaphram to ensure they are true, something is causing clutch drag.

[Italianjob]

I second KernowCoopers suggestion,

 

Ive recently done my clutch as well, new flywheel clutch plate etc..

 

Put it all together and I still had problems, turns out the new plunger and new arm were twisting as it went in and out, not a smooth in and out motion, I ended up using my new plunger and old worn arm. Works perfectly now.

 

I'd suggest like kernowcooper, double check everything again, just to be sure.

[Cooperman]

The top of the clutch arm MUST have a linear movement of between 0.50" and 0.58", which is a practical minimum of 12.5 mm. That is measured with the stop bolt clearance set to zero, not 0.020", and the overthrow nuts wound out and not set.

The 'grey' is a very heavy clutch and the clevis pins and the ball on the bottom of the arm must be in top condition. The engine will slow when the clutch is pushed down, probably by 150 rpm or so.

[GreenMini17]

The top of the clutch arm MUST have a linear movement of between 0.50" and 0.58", which is a practical minimum of 12.5 mm. That is measured with the stop bolt clearance set to zero, not 0.020", and the overthrow nuts wound out and not set.
The 'grey' is a very heavy clutch and the clevis pins and the ball on the bottom of the arm must be in top condition. The engine will slow when the clutch is pushed down, probably by 150 rpm or so.

Thank you Cooperman. I will remeasure the linear movement again with zero gap between the stop bolt and arm. The arm, plunger, release bearing are all brand new. The arm and plunger is the minispares uprated race one too. I think i then need to find the sweet spot between the clutch engaging the gears but with minimal engine rev drop. Would this be correct?