I'm looking for a 1.5 inch socket and also a flywheel puller. The engine is from an Allegro 1300.
Edited by Flundran, 16 May 2014 - 06:17 PM.
Posted 16 May 2014 - 06:17 PM
I'm looking for a 1.5 inch socket and also a flywheel puller. The engine is from an Allegro 1300.
Edited by Flundran, 16 May 2014 - 06:17 PM.
Posted 16 May 2014 - 07:19 PM
the 1.1/2" socket you'll be able to pick up from Halfords or pretty much any motor factor as it's also a ball joint socket ( in fact buy a ball joint socket as it'll be more use than a plain ordinary 1.1/2" socket )
You may also be able to pick up a cheapy flywheel puller from there too...
but next week the mother and father of all flywheel pullers will be available....
https://www.facebook...&type=1
Posted 16 May 2014 - 08:24 PM
Nice bit of kit that John. You cant beat quality tools to get the job done
Posted 16 May 2014 - 09:54 PM
Thanks for the reply. The thing is that I live in Sweden... Buying new tools from a UK based store is going to be expensive in the end. The flywheel puller is a tool that I will probably only use once and then never again. The swedish suppliers of Classic Mini bits generally charges twice as much as the UK stores. (The other week I was looking for a SU needle. The swedish supplier wanted 175 SEK for the AAC, about £16.) I would prefer to buy a used tool from someone that no longer need theirs.
I've found a flyweel puller from a swedish automotive parts store that might work, and for a reasonable price. But the socket seems really hard to find. Most sockets are metric over here.
Posted 17 May 2014 - 02:58 PM
Posted 17 May 2014 - 04:04 PM
I made a decent flywheel puller ( in fact I have done a few now) out of 12mm boiler plate. It only takes half an hour or so to knock one up. I use an M18fine in the middle. Costs pennies but is nowhere near as sexy as GWs one.
Posted 17 May 2014 - 04:49 PM
not as such, but have done them as favours for people. The strange is that some people would turn thier nose up at them as they look very homemade (because they are). I angle grind a triangle out of the plate then drill the holes before welding the centre nut on. Dead easy to make in no time at all. I used to weld fillets on to strengthen it but I have used them without and never had any issues. Your local sheet metal dealer will give you an off cut for a couple of quid max, then the cost of a nut and bolt.I made a decent flywheel puller ( in fact I have done a few now) out of 12mm boiler plate. It only takes half an hour or so to knock one up. I use an M18fine in the middle. Costs pennies but is nowhere near as sexy as GWs one.
I like the price of yours better tho!
Do you make any to sell?
Posted 17 May 2014 - 04:53 PM
and don't forget the bolts you need to attach it to the flywheel and the plug so you don't ruin the crankshaft thread...
Posted 17 May 2014 - 05:04 PM
I just back the crankshaft bolt out and drive off that, added advantage that the crank doesn't fall off when it goes as it can go with a hell of a crack. Only a couple or three turns is enough and there is plenty of thread left to take the force from the puller. Forgot about the three bolts, so cost of four bolts, one nut and a bit of boiler plate.and don't forget the bolts you need to attach it to the flywheel and the plug so you don't ruin the crankshaft thread...
Posted 17 May 2014 - 05:32 PM
Be careful backing out the bolt, I've seen the results of the thread giving way... especially is there's the need to strike the puller bolt
Posted 17 May 2014 - 05:42 PM
touch wood but I have done it for twenty five years on everything from 50cc motorbike engines to rover V8s and never had a issue but then I tend to rely on patience, heat and mechanical advantage rather than brute force. I am guessing some of your customers may go to the latter first!Be careful backing out the bolt, I've seen the results of the thread giving way... especially is there's the need to strike the puller bolt
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