8 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi;

 

Just doing the sills and inners sills on my project and need to fabricate new Jacking Points.

 

Think this pic is from one of Sonikk4's projects (sorry if I have infringed any rules pinching the pic). Anyway what gauge metal is used in the bracket and the jack receptor? I would measure mine up but they are completely rotted!!

 

The bracket is welded to the Inner Sill but just to confirm is the outer sill also plug welded to the bottom folds on the bracket? 

 

Is the hole in the outer sill that is located around the jacking point also seam welded around the jack receptor to prevent water ingress into the sill?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

[sonikk4]

No problem using my picture (that will be £100 please ) The metal is quite thick so you will need something like 1.6 mm and the point itself is the same.

 

To be brutally honest they are cheap especially from M Machine and fit really well. I did originally fabricate one for Project Erm before i deleted them completely (In hindsight should have kept them)

[alex-95]

I think its about 1.6mm, you could do thicker if you want. I'm pretty sure the outer sill is plug welded to them, I would if they're not usually. for the seam welded bit I don't think they were, mine wasn't anyway,  I would weld it up.

[sonikk4]

They are normally spot welded to the inner sill and to the outer sill. I seam weld mine to the inner sill for max strength then plug weld to the outer sill. I also add some weld to the receptacle just to be safe.

[Mini 360]

I just wouldnt bother refitting a rust trap when you are supposed to jack the car up on the subframes anyway.  Weld up the hole!

[sonikk4]

Put it another way. The jacking point forms part of the strength in the sill as it joins the cross member to the inner sill and outer sill. Now i regret not fitting them to my lads car.

 

By all means fit the bracket then plug the hole. As for it being a rust trap, yes it can be but how many mini's out there never had any form of waxoyl pumped into the sill cavity?? Plenty of waxoyl should help to alleviate that problem.

 

I do delete the internal slinging brackets, but that's my choice and yes they do form part of the structural strength in each end. However i seam weld where possible inside to add extra strength.

[JonnyAlpha]

Thanks for all the replies as ever very informative.

 

I just had another look at mine this afternoon, I am doing the Inner and Outers Sills but keeping the old door step in place. The problem is with the Door Step in place the top of Jacking point is hard to reach as it sits up underneath the Door Step.

 

I have also noticed that the Inner Sill sits between the Cross Member and the Jacking Point so I am now trying to work out how to tackle this without cutting a section out of the door step??

 

Mmmm lots of head scratching.  

[Shifty]

I don't fit them, they just trap water and cause rot.

 

The estate don't have them fitted from the factory.

[JonnyAlpha]

Thanks for all the replies as ever very informative.

 

I just had another look at mine this afternoon, I am doing the Inner and Outers Sills but keeping the old door step in place. The problem is with the Door Step in place the top of Jacking point is hard to reach as it sits up underneath the Door Step.

 

I have also noticed that the Inner Sill sits between the Cross Member and the Jacking Point so I am now trying to work out how to tackle this without cutting a section out of the door step??

 

Mmmm lots of head scratching.  

 

Forgot to add the inner sill appears to be rotted through where it sits inside the Cross Member.