Building A 1330 Just Wanted Advice On My Setup
#1
Posted 24 May 2014 - 02:02 PM
I had it bored out to +60 and have 10:1 compression ratio pistons.
I was planning on using this one day to do a supercharged build but I figure I might as well use it now and have a nice engine in the mini with a bit more torque and power than standard, instead of using untested and tired old engines.
The engine that's in my mini has started burning oil pretty badly so it's time to build a nice 1330
My plan is to use the 1330 block, with the freshly reground crank and 10:1 pistons. Then I was planning on using a Kent 276 cam and have work done to a 12g940 head that I have already, or to purchase a big valve version and have that worked and fit a hif44 carb I already have.
Then I want to couple this to either a straight cut box or use my original 1275 box with straight cut drops
I've been reading through various engine builds and talk on various parts. But it's very hard to work out what the facts are.
I'm hoping someone can tell me what sort of build this will be, I'm hoping for a bit more power, something that will pull noticeably better to a 1275.
I'd rather everyone not jump in telling me how different the engine should be, if rather just like to know what it will be like to drive, what sort of power and torque I should expect compared to standard, if that's then not for me I will look into what needs to be different
#2
Posted 24 May 2014 - 02:35 PM
The only thing to watch is CR. if you open up the combustion chambers you will lower the cr again. If heads been skimmed it may be over 10:1.
plus if you do supercharge it you will need to reduce the cr a lot. I think principles are same with turbos so you need to look at around 8.5:1 I think. Check on turbominis forum.
#3
Posted 24 May 2014 - 02:54 PM
#4
Posted 24 May 2014 - 03:12 PM
Mini is near as dammit the same spec, 1330, stg 4 BV head, 276 cam, Aldon yellow distributor, Hif44 with profiles needle, and is 95bhp, nice engine setup correctly. I would recommend the spec, mine has a balanced bottom end with centre main strap.
#5
Posted 24 May 2014 - 03:26 PM
I remember when I had the block machined the guy said that 10:1 is quite a high compression ratio for a petrol engine and that much more than that would be a diesel powered engine territory. I could be wrong in what he said but I'm pretty sure that's why I went for 10:1
The head i took off the original 1275 engine is now on the current one and is perfectly standard.
I'm also wondering what sort of ignition system to use, I have looked at mega jolt and hear good things, but really don't like the idea of having to use software to tune my engine up, although it's a lot cleaner, and it's also really expensive
What other ignition systems at out there that are better than standard? I've heard people mention aldon yellow distributors etc but never really had much of a reason to ask about it until now
#6
Posted 24 May 2014 - 03:54 PM
Edited by minilee94, 24 May 2014 - 03:55 PM.
#7
Posted 24 May 2014 - 04:12 PM
#8
Posted 24 May 2014 - 05:23 PM
#9
Posted 24 May 2014 - 08:20 PM
10.1 is nearly standard cr better off going for 10.5 or depends what you using car for go 11.1
Aren't you into pinking and pre-detonation territory there? Been told 10:1 is best on todays fuel
#10
Posted 24 May 2014 - 08:27 PM
10.1 is nearly standard cr better off going for 10.5 or depends what you using car for go 11.1
Aren't you into pinking and pre-detonation territory there? Been told 10:1 is best on todays fuel
Depends on the fuel used and the ignition timing, running a lower octane fuel and high compression ratio will promote pre- ignition or detonation (two different things; no such thing as pre-detonation) but provided a high octane fuel is used it shouldn't pink
#11
Posted 24 May 2014 - 08:33 PM
10.1 is nearly standard cr better off going for 10.5 or depends what you using car for go 11.1
Aren't you into pinking and pre-detonation territory there? Been told 10:1 is best on todays fuel
Depends on the fuel used and the ignition timing, running a lower octane fuel and high compression ratio will promote pre- ignition or detonation (two different things; no such thing as pre-detonation) but provided a high octane fuel is used it shouldn't pink
For a road car, a maximum of 10.5 is recommended as fuel quality can vary.
On our race Ford engines, we run compression ratios of 12:1 or higher but they have been set up on Shell V Power and are always run on it
#12
Posted 24 May 2014 - 09:22 PM
Asking as the car is set up correctly and runs a very good fuel as stated shell v power it will be fine
#13
Posted 24 May 2014 - 10:46 PM
Ac
#14
Posted 25 May 2014 - 11:52 AM
I'm hoping for a fairly cheap and simple build, I've already got most parts, to be honest i could just put the engine back together with original cam and followers, head work won't cost anything, then just have it back together,
I'd just rather have spent the money on the rebore etc and actually get a bit more out of my engine by fitting a different cam and a few different parts to give me a bit more power
#15
Posted 25 May 2014 - 11:54 AM
Kent 276 cam and new followers
Either work my head or source big valve 940 and work that
New oil pump
Make a centre oil pickup pipe
Straight cut drops
New distributor or mega jolt- need to look into ignition systems really
Anything else? Other than gasket sets and seals obviously
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