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Engine Out What Should I Replace On It.


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#16 surfblue

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 07:31 PM

Just had mine out for a gearbox swap. Did oil pump, water pump, timing chain and sprockets, head gasket, thermostat and gasket, new clutch and a full repaint.

 

016_zps4742e9f1.jpg


Edited by surfblue, 29 May 2014 - 07:32 PM.


#17 cal844

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 08:09 PM

Just had mine out for a gearbox swap. Did oil pump, water pump, timing chain and sprockets, head gasket, thermostat and gasket, new clutch and a full repaint.

 

016_zps4742e9f1.jpg

Very nice!!



#18 mini-kev

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 01:04 PM

Just had mine out for a gearbox swap. Did oil pump, water pump, timing chain and sprockets, head gasket, thermostat and gasket, new clutch and a full repaint.

 

016_zps4742e9f1.jpg

thats perfect thanks i think ill do the same :-)



#19 Ethel

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 01:50 PM

A 3rd vote for not removing the head gasket without a good reason. I'd do a compression / leak down test before even considering it. You could even get one of those cheapy endoscops to poke through the plug holes if you were curious.

 

Likewise I wouldn't bother with the water pump - easy enough to do in the car, so save the pennies if it's still good, you might consider upgrading the bypass hose though.

 

Cheap or free jobs:

 

Give the cooling system a thorough flushing, removing the thermostat housing. If it won't shift it'd be bettter to sort it now than at the side of a motorway

 

The timing chain will almost certainly need replacing, consider upgrading to a duplex or better quality single.

 

Replace the selector shaft oil seal, if it leaks at all, or is the older type (no rubber concertina and it may well not have steel support bush behind the seal).

 

Give the driveshaft joints a good wobble to assess the state of the output bushes & seals, replace as necessary.

 

Pulling the clutch is worth considering, if only to ensure it comes off. If it does the primary gear oil seal and oil pump are also worth a look.

 

Beyond that you're looking at around £40 in gaskets just to have a ganders and it'd be wise to chuck in at least another £100 in bearings and con rod nuts 'n bolts. 



#20 mini-kev

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 01:59 PM

A 3rd vote for not removing the head gasket without a good reason. I'd do a compression / leak down test before even considering it. You could even get one of those cheapy endoscops to poke through the plug holes if you were curious.

 

Likewise I wouldn't bother with the water pump - easy enough to do in the car, so save the pennies if it's still good, you might consider upgrading the bypass hose though.

 

Cheap or free jobs:

 

Give the cooling system a thorough flushing, removing the thermostat housing. If it won't shift it'd be bettter to sort it now than at the side of a motorway

 

The timing chain will almost certainly need replacing, consider upgrading to a duplex or better quality single.

 

Replace the selector shaft oil seal, if it leaks at all, or is the older type (no rubber concertina and it may well not have steel support bush behind the seal).

 

Give the driveshaft joints a good wobble to assess the state of the output bushes & seals, replace as necessary.

 

Pulling the clutch is worth considering, if only to ensure it comes off. If it does the primary gear oil seal and oil pump are also worth a look.

 

Beyond that you're looking at around £40 in gaskets just to have a ganders and it'd be wise to chuck in at least another £100 in bearings and con rod nuts 'n bolts. 

thanks i have a new waterpump so might as well change that but hadnt thought about changing the chain will get one ordered :)



#21 cal844

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 03:14 PM

IF there is a bypass fitted to the OPs engine, i suggest fitting a kevlar hose.. Dont buy the rubber concertina item!!!!!

#22 Dusky

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 03:14 PM

I woul remove the head and decoke everything. Also check bore wear, valve wear etc.

Removing a head and reinstalling it really isn't hard.. And its better to decoke it now and find tha tyou have a worn bore, than that you have to take the engine out after 100 miles when something breaks..



#23 coopdog

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 07:04 PM

also the duplex needs some timing cover mods



#24 Ethel

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 01:00 AM

Good point, fitting duplex timing gear really needs the engine out as you need to countersink a couple of screw holes behind the crank sprocket. The cover will need "easing" if it's the A+ style.



#25 mini-kev

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 12:53 PM

what advantage does fitting duplex timing chain give you over the standard chain?



#26 coopdog

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 02:10 PM

doesnt strech and keeps the cam in time



#27 Tahiti Joe

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 04:27 PM

Really no need to 'upgrade' to a duplex timing chain. Save yourself the money and time and just replace the chain with a good quality iwis chain or similar.




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