8 replies to this topic

[Pauly]

Hi all,

Got a small problem that's been bugging me for a while. It's a pre-verto setup.

I seem to get clutch drag when I set the throw out stop to the correct position (screw in with clutch down, the turn in 1 flat), I struggle to get gears and it crunches into reverse. When I screw the throw out stop all the way out so it's clear, the clutch disengages fine and I can get gears.

The lever, plunger, clevis pins are all new. Slave cylinder isn't that old but it has been left open to the elements for a while (engines been out for a while).

The only thing I haven't changed is the master or slave cylinder, the pedal feels firm and strong and doesn't feel like there is air in the system? The only other thing is when I removed the flywheel/clutch previously the flywheel bolt wasn't very tight, like it had worked loose. This time I torqued the flywheel down then torqued it again, wondering if this has pushed the flywheel on further?

Any ideas would be great.

[liam-ds]

i had / still have got the exact same problem had to adjust mine until it selected gears correctly if i set it up as the book says the clutch drags bad cant get any gears at all.on the way home from work toady it started doing it again so i have just adjusted the bolt behind the clutch arm bite is still on the floor but it is not dragging now. when i built the car i changed the master cylinder slave cylinder and fitted an new clutch as the old clutch died on the first day the car was on the road. over the winter iam taking the engine out and swapping to a vetro setup as iam fed-up of the pre vetro clutch

 

Liam

[The Matt]

Clutch pedal pivot pin in good order? I had similar and my pin was proper wonked!

[Cooperman]

I just posted a 'Clutch Drag Fault Finder' on another thread ("still got clutch problems").

Please take a look at it as it may answer the question.

Edited by Cooperman, 18 June 2014 - 10:02 PM.

[Pauly]

Still having problems with this.

I've replaced both the master and slave cylinders, brand new arm and plunger and it seems to have done nothing.

The clutch/flywheel assembly is only over a year old from Med so I'm trying not to edge my bets on this yet.

The clutch pedal has very little free play in the clevis pin (a few mm if that), but after renewing the master and slave the pedal feels light (not spongy) it's an orange diaphragm that's in there and I remember it used to make my leg ache on long journeys! I have bleed the system with an easy bleed as well, the only thing raising my suspicion is how ive routed the clutch pipe. It's a one piece braided one but I've put a slight loop in it near the slave. It's not a tight loop though, could this be an issue?

Also is there any difference in flywheel covers/woks? Mine doesn't have any cracks showing but it seems it started when I had to change it.

Thanks.

Edited by Pauly, 07 August 2014 - 11:37 AM.

[Pauly]

Just to update, the drag stops when you pull the arm out with a lever

[Cooperman]

Please do the search to find my 'Clutch Drag Fault Finder'.

It has been posted on here several times and is a complete guide to any clutch drag issue.

[Pauly]

I did go through you guide which is quite good, most of the things I've done already, think there are only a few other things it could be unfortunately. I'm looking at the more expensive end of it now by the looks

[ribz0]

Hey Pauly...

 

How did you go with your clutch problem? I am having some issues also and am at the stage of changing clutch master and slave cylinders..

 

Cheers