36 replies to this topic

[Carlos W]

Thats put my mind at rest, thanks.

 

Is it off yet?

[The Matt]

It really shouldn't take weeks of pressure on there to creep off.

 

Heating and cooling it will make a big difference, but the biggest thing is having a decent puller.  The verto ones are far worse for sticking on that the diaphragm setup.

[Hendred]

Well time is one thing I do have as doing shell, (got a thread on here for it).  I have checked the TDC on pulley and the notch on pulley has been lined up with welded on bracket with line on it from the beginning so it must be just tight, that has to be TDC marks on bracket on timing cover to the right of notch in picture?

 

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[A-Cell]

Hendred keep at it - last August I posted this
They are notoriously difficult. Tight as (insert your own suitable adjective!)
In theory if the crankshaft is set with no1 piston at TDC then gravity will keep the C washer in place, allowing the flywheel to be removed. However if the flywheel has been previously refitted then the washer could be upside down, thus gravity will dislodge it jamming the flywheel. Therefore safest way is to have no 1 piston halfway up the bore so that the C washer will be horizontal.

That said the flywheel can 'cold weld' itself to the taper and makes it very difficult to remove. Lots of posts on here with advice. Personal experience of a very difficult one was to squirt it with plus gas, put tool on, ensure the face of the tool is parallel to the face of the flywheel, wind tool up very tight, hit end of tool, tighten again. Left it overnight under tension, carried on the bash, tighten until it came off. It was so tight I buggered the big bolt in the tool, it stretched and would not undo again!

Crank and flywheel were fine, just lapped them with fine valve grinding paste before re-assembly.


Also I rate this product highly, combined release fluid and freeze spray
Halfords shock and unlock
http://www.halfords....ock-spray-400ml
Also a large breaker bar at least 2ft
And lubricate (grease) the threads on the centre puller bolt to reduce friction

Good Luck

[Hendred]

I will get some of that spray, thanks for your encouragement

[GraemeC]

That's neither the TDC marl or the pointer.

 

The mark should b a very fine notch - almost as though cut with a hacksaw.

The pointer is to the left of the pulley and is a series of triangular teeth, one (TDC) being larger than the others.

[A-Cell]

Hendred, Looking at the picture in your very first post, the slot in the flywheel and therefore the C-Washer is horizontal. That is the position I would be using. So that's good. Make sure you lock the flywheel here. A 7/16 x 1/2 in AF open end spanner in the ring gear works for me. So stop worrying about the position of the C-Washer.
Keep the tension on the puller bolt, no point in releasing it then re-tightening.
It will come off in the end.