12 replies to this topic

[poxxxy]

So today we started chopping away at the front end to unveil the task ahead. The infill panel on the driver side appears to be totally missing and just generally curious as to what panels are available for the repair... or how much will have to be fabricated... and would appreciate any advice on how to tackle the below. The a frame also needs replacing so the door will have to come out, along with the windscreen and scuttle!

 

[sonikk4]

Seriously toastie, i think the inner wing will need replacing on the r/h side and on the left side a flitch repair panel may do the job.

 

New scuttle needed plus the scuttle close outs and i think both A posts as well. That will need the A panels to be replaced as well.

[FlyingScot]

Definitely crispy mate, both inner wings, a panels and genuine scuttle panel (Pattern ones are poor), closing panels.
In fact what he said ^^^^

FS

[ANON]

wait until you get the screen out and see the rust on the inside  

[Carlos W]

And check under the top shocker mounts, I bet there are holes there too

[poxxxy]

Appreciate the help guys, getting expensive :) lol. I think a spot welder may be needed! Any other tools that may come in handy that I may not have already!?

[Dr s]

Hate to sound like a doom bringer, but you need to make sure that shell is viable. You'll need something to weld to, somewhere. Better find out early than later. It looks pretty rough to me.

Sorry!

[Carlos W]

Looks fairly standard to me

[poxxxy]

There's plenty of good metal to weld to :). Can't give up now the rear end is sound! lol.

[sonikk4]

It's all very doable and you don't need a spot welder. Done this job on Project Erm and it's quite straight forward.

Lots of skin pins, clecos and vise grips needed.

[69k1100]

I'm at this stage at the moment but with a lot more metal to work with. Even so I'm looking at bracing between the door steps as I already have the front footwell out and I am looking to remove part of the flitch, and the seat crossmember is out.

I started looking at patching the bottom of the hinge stiffer (mk1 car) and the inner and outer a panels. Once I started drilling spot welds it became far more viable to purchase new panels as even if you run a flap disk over a panel and it looks good, if you have a hole into the cavity it's inevitable there will be rust in there, and rust can travel vertically so check the a pillars too. Just be aware that these cars breed rust so don't be surprised if a solid looking toeboard has rust in the bulkhead crossmember.

That windscreen aperture looks toast too (the seals are deformed from flaky rust)

[poxxxy]

Hi guys, off this particular topic but out of interest what front panel should I go for? Pattern/genuine? Do they come with the brackets that weld to the inner wings? Been cutting it off today along with the scuttle!

Edited by poxxxy, 10 July 2014 - 02:02 PM.

[Cooperman]

With so little in the way of existing body to use as datums it might be best to go for heritage panels wherever possible. If not, then get them from M-Machine or Somerford Minis.

That is certainly a lot of welding, but the good news is that all the panels you'll need are available except, if needed, the top of the front bulkhead.

Get a set of solid sub-frame mountings and bolt it in solidly after first fixing the front toe-board sub-frame mounting area first. Then the sub-frame can be used to line up the inner wings & front panel before starting. From there you can align the A-panels, scuttle panel and wings.

It sounds a lot, but once you get into it you'll find it straightforward.

As 'sonix' says, you don't need a spot-welder, but make sure you have a powerful MIG with a long duty cycle. Do lots of check assembly before welding.

M-Machine do a very comprehensive on-line catalogue and their delivery service is superb..