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H Beam Rods


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#1 albo

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 05:07 PM

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item33916adf5b

 

hi all, would they be any real benefit useing the above rods in a rebuild fast road 1275 + 40 

270 cam,standard mg head at moment,lcb, hif 44, ae 21250 pistons decked block say 10.1 compression, was hopeing for about 90 at fly,

they seem a fair price as include harp fixings,

is the only way of fitting these useing teflon buttons as they are floating pins,besides mod to pistons to take circlips, or for my spec are they simply not worth the bother,

 

cheers alan.

 

 



#2 Carlos W

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 05:09 PM

From Hong Kong, I wonder if they're genuine?



#3 albo

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 05:18 PM

From Hong Kong, I wonder if they're genuine?

 

mm maybe, but don`t see why not, been on e bay  for some time now, cheapest ive seen now and free post



#4 carbon

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 06:04 PM

Albo,

 

For your spec the standard rods should work just fine.

 

Fit ARP bolts if you're planning to rev it hard and long.



#5 Tupers

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 06:07 PM

I wouldn't bother, there are plenty of the turbo boys running well over 100hp with standard rods. 

 

You're also gambling on the quality of the chinese rods. Although they might be fine if they do grenade them selfs they'll probably eat your whole engine. 



#6 MIGLIACARS

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 06:17 PM

if your wanting H section rods use arrow.

 

lots of cash but they have never had one fail.

 

but as above the standard rods will be fine



#7 The Matt

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 06:20 PM

Cheap 'upgrades' = expensive repairs!

#8 Stiggytoo

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 06:34 PM

Waste of money with your spec. I would rather spend it getting a bit more power out of it.



#9 albo

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 06:47 PM

ok thanks guys good advice,they do seem cheap tho as harp bolt/stud kits are over a ton with vat to use on standard rods,

which makes them h beams less then 37 quid each, me nah chinese by tha yay grasshoppers, :goaway:



#10 Cooperman

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 07:32 PM

No benefits whatsoever. Standard rods are good for 7000 rpm without balancing and with balancing well over that figure.

On a road car with that cam it is unlikely you will be using much over 6000 rpm anyway, especially if you have road-gearing as opposed to a SC CR gearbox and a very low FDR for rallying or other comp use.



#11 albo

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 07:57 PM

No benefits whatsoever. Standard rods are good for 7000 rpm without balancing and with balancing well over that figure.

On a road car with that cam it is unlikely you will be using much over 6000 rpm anyway, especially if you have road-gearing as opposed to a SC CR gearbox and a very low FDR for rallying or other comp use.

 

cheers all for your responces & mr coops for another piece of his knowledge, i will cross them off me list  :proud:



#12 Cooperman

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 09:18 PM

A lot of owners spend a lot of money on very unnecessary parts. I blame the two 'comics' for advocating modifications which are totally not needed on road cars.

A good example is camshaft choice. Because the cam grinding companies all want you to buy their cams, they will tell you that theirs will out-perform another, probably equally good cam.

In fact, what is most important is the quality of the engine build and it is surprising what can be achieved by careful parts selection & accurate assembly (known as 'blueprinting'). I built a 'standard' engine for a 1990 Endurance Rally Cooper 1275. I had to use 21253 pistons, all standard crank & rods. I bored it to 1330 cc as allowed by the regulations. It had a distributor with a better advance curve and a new MG Metro cam. I cleaned up the inlet manifold, did a little bit of work to the head by smoothing out the head chambers and matching in the valve seat areas, The valve guide bosses were slightly reduced in size, the 'short-side-radius in the inlet tracts smoothed out and then face of the head skimmed by 0.027". The flywheel was slightly lightened. I assembled it very carefully and it had 84 bhp at 5700 rpm. The best thing was how good the torque was. I revved it to just under 7000 rpm on rally tests and it was reasonably competitive with modern cars of up to 1400 cc except in terms of road cruising speeds.

You don't need to spend a lot of money to make a Mini very nice to drive, obviously in a 'retro' sort of way.

There are no 'fast road Minis, just 'not quite so slow ones'.



#13 MIGLIACARS

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 07:17 AM

A lot of owners spend a lot of money on very unnecessary parts. I blame the two 'comics' for advocating modifications which are totally not needed on road cars.

 

 

Couldn't agree more! not just with road cars but with races too. You see the larger company's advertising the latest parts which supposedly give you 2-4hp over there there rivals parts, There is a lot to be said for some standard parts which a lot of people forget, just by bolting on the new fancy dancy shiny parts isn't guarantied power.

 

 

 






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