6 replies to this topic

[steerling]

I have a '81 leyland 998cc that has been running below average of late. Spark plugs and a fuel smell are telling me it's running too rich, but before fiddling with the fuel adjustment on the carb, I believe (from my reading on the interweb) that it's best to ensure that the timing is set first. Without having access to a timing light for the next week, is it possible to adjust the timing without one?

 

Forgive me if this is a naive approach. I intend on setting the ignition timing accurately with the help of a friend as soon as possible. But in the mean time i think my timing needs to be retarded slightly. Can someone talk me through how best to do this? 

[smartie93]

I have a '81 leyland 998cc that has been running below average of late. Spark plugs and a fuel smell are telling me it's running too rich, but before fiddling with the fuel adjustment on the carb, I believe (from my reading on the interweb) that it's best to ensure that the timing is set first. Without having access to a timing light for the next week, is it possible to adjust the timing without one?

 

Forgive me if this is a naive approach. I intend on setting the ignition timing accurately with the help of a friend as soon as possible. But in the mean time i think my timing needs to be retarded slightly. Can someone talk me through how best to do this? 

You're probably best off leaving it alone until you can do it properly, at least it runs now right? Ignition is a precise affair, you could easily make it worse.

 

Why do you figure that you need to retard the ignition?

Edited by smartie93, 07 July 2014 - 12:51 PM.

[MrIan]

I used to turn the dizzy very carefully and slowly while listening to the engine to rough set timing, BUT if you want to set it correctly you need to use either the bulb across the points job (only rough setting anyway) or a timing light.

[steerling]

You're probably best off leaving it alone until you can do it properly, at least it runs now right? Ignition is a precise affair, you could easily make it worse.

 

Why do you figure that you need to retard the ignition?

 

 

I suspect that since putting in some new points, the timing has advanced and might be causing some detonation/pinging. I understand that this is BAD and so instead of risking anything before getting my hands on the timing light next week i thought i could retard the ignition slightly just to get me through this week, even if that does result in a slight loss of power

[carbon]

Check on the flywheel side casing cover. With a '81 car there should be a small metal plate at the top of the alloy cover held on by two 1/4 bolts. Take this off carefully, make sure you don't drop the bolts inside the flywheel casing.

 

You can then see the rim of the flywheel, when pistons are a top dead centre you will see markings on the rim of the flywheel marked 15...10...5...1/4.   1/4 is top dead centre, the others are degrees before tdc. To read these accurately you may need to use a light and mirror.

 

With these marks you can set up the static timing very accurately. Disconnect the wire from coil to distributor, and using a multimeter set on resistance you can see when the points are just opening as you move the flywheel very slowly towards top dead centre. Normally takes a few attempts to get this right.

 

Now read off flywheel rim, this is your static ignition timing.

[coopdog]

just buy a timing gun, they are like £30...

[Ellie]

^^^^^ great post ^^^^^